Originally Posted by STL
You will wanna verify the head is not warped as well.
A simple way to find cracks if you have a black light you can buy dyes that you pour on the head. Then take the light and run it over the head.
Will do, already fished out my feeler gauge and 18" straight edge to check flatness.
Is the UV dye made by the same people who make the dyes for coolant and oil leak detection? I have seen those at my local flaps but will need to look for the stuff you talking about.
I spoke with a guy over at Clearwater Cylinder Head and he said they won't even rework the factory heads because of the casting issues. Told me that an aftermarket casting fully built would run me $200 a piece.
Anything special I need to worry about on the bottom end? While the heads are off I'm going to inspect the lower end and see if everything is still in order. Figuring since I'll be this far in I may as well pop a couple bearing and connecting rod caps and see what it all looks like and make sure it's good before replacing the heads. May just get new bearings and rings to freshen the whole thing up. while the engine is out if there is no scarring on the crankshaft or main bearing journals.
Any other tribal knowledge you guys have would be greatly appreciated.