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  #1  
Old 11-19-2010, 08:39 AM
Rum Runner Rum Runner is offline
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Default 4.0L OHV Rocker Arms

Hello Ranger people, glad yall are here!

1992 XLT 4.0 2WD 200k miles
1999 XLT 4.0 2WD 107k miles

I am having engine noise on my 1999 Ranger and have ordered the Delta Cam rocker arm kit for the 4.0L OHV. I have the valve covers off and waiting for parts to arrive.

I would like to ask a few questions because I have never worked on this type V6.

Is replacing rocker and rods a straight forward job? Or do you have to rotate the engine to close both valves on each set of rocker arms? I'm a tad bit confused.
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Old 11-19-2010, 05:44 PM
crowdpleazer crowdpleazer is offline
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Default Re: 4.0L OHV Rocker Arms

i would think so because you have to set the gap just right between the rocker and the valve and the only way that can be done is for the cam to be in the right place so that its not pushing up on the pushrod. so yes you have to rotate the engine so that each valve is closed.

you might wanna do some checking on this: does the camshaft have compression reliefs? its an extra little bump on the cam on the exhaust sides that opens the exhaust valve up a tiny bit to lower the compression making starting easier. IF it has that, then you have to play around with it to get the exhaust valve exactly closed. im not sure if rangers have this. someone else might know.
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1998 ranger extended cab, 2wd, 4.0 ohv, 5 speed, sony xploid 52 4 way watt radio, 2 pair of pioneer 240 watt speakers, Cobra 29 LX LCD CB radio pushing 100 watts, k&n air filter, 15 inch exploder wheels, dual exhaust with 4 inch stainless tips, 2 12 inch subs with a 1000 watt amp just for the hell of it!

new project: dirt track modified racing at the local saturday night track.
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Old 11-20-2010, 05:37 AM
Rum Runner Rum Runner is offline
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Default Re: 4.0L OHV Rocker Arms

Thanks Daniel,

I called the guy at Delta Cam and asked about the 4.0 rocker arm kit. He told me you preload lifters with the pushrod lengths, and that there are no real adjustments to be made. Under further review, I can see that. I guess I will make sure the push rods are the exact same length and bolt everything back in and torque to specís.. He said the 3 rocker assembly mounting bolts were not torque yield bolts so I can re-use them.

Have you had upper engine noise with your 98 4.0 engine? What about any piston slap noise?
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Old 11-21-2010, 08:13 PM
crowdpleazer crowdpleazer is offline
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Default Re: 4.0L OHV Rocker Arms

ive never heard any piston slap in my engine. but i do have a noise up front at idle that kinda sounds like marbles moving around. im pretty sure that its caused from the oil pump not pumping enough oil at idle. its a timing rattle. other people on this site have the same issue and they have been hearing it for a long time so i wouldnt worry about it.

im just curious, are you having piston slap on yours? how many miles are on the engine?
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1998 ranger extended cab, 2wd, 4.0 ohv, 5 speed, sony xploid 52 4 way watt radio, 2 pair of pioneer 240 watt speakers, Cobra 29 LX LCD CB radio pushing 100 watts, k&n air filter, 15 inch exploder wheels, dual exhaust with 4 inch stainless tips, 2 12 inch subs with a 1000 watt amp just for the hell of it!

new project: dirt track modified racing at the local saturday night track.
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:22 AM
Rum Runner Rum Runner is offline
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Default Re: 4.0L OHV Rocker Arms

I'm not 100% sure I know what piston slap is, or sounds like.

I had ALL KINDS of noise in the 1992 4.0 when it sludged up. Very much the same noise the 1999 4.0 is having. I think the engine noise is a 3-way combination:

1. Sludging.....because the 4.0 is the 2.9 bored out, so some of the ports may be smaller or over heated.
2. Denotation from carbon build up due to cheap gas.
3. Poor oiling capabilities to the upper valve train causing excessive wear.

Another thing I noticed is the overdrive kicking in so quickly chugging the engine.

----------

That marble sound is probably a rocker arm seat that has "pushed in" allowing clearance between the arm and push rod, sorta sounds like something hitting the valve cover.
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Old 11-22-2010, 03:22 PM
crowdpleazer crowdpleazer is offline
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Default Re: 4.0L OHV Rocker Arms

well loose rockers is my second guess on the problem lol. as long as you change your oil reasonably (and dont use Quaker State) then you shouldnt have any major problems with sludging up.

are you sure that the 4.0 is just a bored out 2.9? i dont seem to think that is true. i have never owned a 2.9 but ive seen them and they look a whole lot smaller than my 4.0. im not saying your wrong though. im not a big fan of v6s but ive had good luck with 4.0s so ill never buy a truck/explorer with anything else.

ps piston slap is simply the bottom of the piston slapping back and forth in the cylinder. its not good as it will tear up the piston and the cylinder walls.
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1998 ranger extended cab, 2wd, 4.0 ohv, 5 speed, sony xploid 52 4 way watt radio, 2 pair of pioneer 240 watt speakers, Cobra 29 LX LCD CB radio pushing 100 watts, k&n air filter, 15 inch exploder wheels, dual exhaust with 4 inch stainless tips, 2 12 inch subs with a 1000 watt amp just for the hell of it!

new project: dirt track modified racing at the local saturday night track.

Last edited by crowdpleazer; 11-22-2010 at 03:27 PM.
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  #7  
Old 05-24-2015, 02:28 PM
khyeron khyeron is offline
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Exclamation Re: 4.0L OHV Rocker Arms (hydraulic roller lifters, factory style.)

Synopsis: I've found several specs for the 4.0 rocker arm shaft assembly. Some say 26 ft-lbs + 90 degrees (quarter turn.) Some say 28, some say 32 ft-lbs.

Sources: I have the DVD ford factory repair manual (windows XP, requires emulation or translation layers to get working on Linux or later windows.) I also have the Haynes and Chilton and a few bits off the web. All say different things. One web site lists "26-90 ft-lbs." I don't remember where I found the listing. The head bolt listing matched accurately with what I had from the manuals. I noticed the website in question was a scan of the factory manual... so ... typo? Or just a wide torque range all of which would work?


Needless to say, when I took my rocker assemblies off my ranger, I couldn't break them loose and I measured 150 torque ft-lbs before the torque wrench rounded the edges on one of the rocker arm shaft bolts. Some idiot impacted mine on or turned on 'em until his socket popped off the bolt head? Hard to say.

With that said:
I had to take an impact wrench to the bolts, set it to max and finally broke them loose. Here's how to tell "overtightened by previous mechanic." Cleanest threads I've ever seen, no rust, no corrosion, no buildup, not a grain or grit... not even a trace of Loctite either!

I've got FORD mechanics telling me they're torque to yield (TTY is the official term, but one FORD certified guy I talked to calls them Twist Bolts, saying they're torque plus a quarter turn, therefore "torque to yield.") Far as I've seen, these rocker arms don't need to be over torqued, and over torquing may be where some of those well known 3.0 & 4.0 OHV head cracking issues are coming from. Coincidentally my heads were both in need of replacement, as was one of the head gaskets, both gaskets RUSTED but one was also leaking compression between cylinders, antifreeze was leaking through head cracks. Vehicle was sipping antifreeze gently and shaking like a bucking bronco under load/accel. Firing on four cylinders too, since two cylinders were leaking compression and 3 were drinking antifreeze. No piston leakage I've detected, and truck runs smooth as silk now. (Loud injectors and valve train, with that distinctive FORD pushrod/injector clicking so common on Econoline vans from that era.)

The rocker arm bolts are NOT "really" torque to yield, they may be "of that type" but if you're only torquing to specs, you aren't stretching them by any stretch of the imagination (pun intended). Dimensionally, they're almost as thick as head bolts on the ranger, about 3/8" inch diameter at the threads (and the head bolts, I've measured to take around 140 ft lbs or thereabouts on the last 85 to 90 degree turn.) If you can break similar bolts or stretch them with a 5th of the force involved, I got a 3 months a year lake in Wyoming to sell you... The bolt-heads are easy to strip and the bolts themselves are nearly impossible to find in shops (you'd have to sub a different type or get them from FORD if they're feeling generous.) Every supply house I work with carry the adjustable "performance" rockers, but the ranger and the explorer OHV engines come with self adjusting hydraulic roller lifters and shaft mounted rockers and very short valve pushrods a bit under 6 inches (hard to bend, unlike the near foot long rods I've seen on certain jeep engines for example. Obviously, the longer the rod, the more likely it is to get bent and damaged from operating stresses.) All my rods were perfectly straight, but slightly worn. The rocker arm pads, on the other hand, looked like Satan used them to wipe his butt after a particularly Hellish bout of indigestion! I'll take pictures next time I take the rockers off to replace them with the new ones coming in.

As far as torquing these down, keep this in mind. Your hydraulic roller lifters are still on the same place on the cam where they should be (unless you had to do timing work) so they will match crankshaft position, ergo the piston positions. (This is for shaft rocker arm assemblies only with self adjusting hydraulic roller lifters and non adjustable rocker arms, factory style, adjustables are different!!) So with the lifters and timing not having been changed, you can simply make sure your rods went back into their appropriate lifter (unless you replaced rockers rods and/or lifters, in which case you can put the new rods and arms wherever you wish as there's no wear patterns to match) and then proceed to slowly torque them down, one full turn at a time until the mounting pedestals flush with their designated landing zones on the cylinder heads. You will notice that as the bolts begin to tighten up and get closer to flushing the mounting studs for the shaft to their designated spots on the heads, certain valves will open as the rocker arms push against the pushrods which will only give so much. With a quality wrench and clean threads, you will note there isn't much effort required of you to torque the bolts to spec or even over spec, even as some of the rockers open their respective valves. You may want to squirt some oil (should be 5w-30 on the 3.0/4.0 V6 OHV) on top of each lifter to provide some initial lube for the rods (or squirt some with a fine squirter into each hole on the rocker arms which belongs to the pushrod cup, it'll provide some initial lube and dribble down on the rods to the lifter cups as well.) Don't worry about valve lash adjustments if you're using the hydraulic roller lifters. When they fill up with oil once operating, the lifters will fix that for you.


I would lube all the materials prior to reinsertion of lifter, rod, rocker arm. Some people will suggest flooding lifters in appropriate oil prior to reinsertion into engine, for at least a day or two, but I haven't found that necessary. Check for flushness of rods into their respective cups on both lifters and rocker arms. Check for clean lifter bores, etc.

Hope this helps some of you folks looking for results and answers as much as some of you have (unknowingly) helped me.




One last word of advice. When you check your rocker arms while working on this stuff, clean out or de-gunk your shafts and assemblies, internally, those shafts carry oil and can get clogged up (I make it a habit to check wear on the valve train whenever I get around to doing a timing or spark plug adjustment on all my vehicles.) You can re oil the rocker arms and internal shafts later, but a LOT of the issues with these rangers were from poor maintenance or crappy/inappropriate fuel/oil additives AND poor maintenance. (Motorcraft/FORD screwed the pooch with the thinness/quality of castings for the heads, and though Motorcraft quality is usually top notch, some of their OEM parts were less than good. Think two part spark plugs in F150's and the ensuing class action lawsuits... With that in mind, aftermarket or reman heads are recommended.)

Keep wrenching and drivin', and have fun while you're at it.
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