Ford Ranger Forum - Forums for Ford Ranger enthusiasts!

Go Back   Ford Ranger Forum - Forums for Ford Ranger enthusiasts! > > >
Forgot Password? Join Us!

Welcome to Ford Ranger Forum

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread

  #46  
Old 08-24-2010, 03:07 PM
EERNGER EERNGER is offline
Learning to use the forums
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 14
Default Re: What would be the most

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger Kid View Post
Now with gearing could I put a posi in it and pick up hole time? And what about mustang engine? I mean 5.3 right? or would that be a waste of time?

Thanx again EVERYONE that has helped me out with this "bump" it's truly and education to me thanx a lot
Yes you can put in a limited slip in your axle which will help you to keep going instead of turning your truck into an epic one tire fire. You can even simplify this process by picking up a limited slip equip stock ford 8.8 axle if you have one of the lower ratios (numerically). Ranger ratios go up to 4.10 and can be had with limited slip or even the torsion limited slip if you can grab one out of an fx4. If you are running 3.73 and lower gears, switching to 4.10's and limited slip can make your truck feel considerably different.

As far as putting a v-8 between you fenders, probibly the easiest way to go is with the mustang 5.0 (5.3 is a Chevy engine) although i have seen both 4.6 rangers and 5.4L rangers. The reason the 5.0 is the best option for a Ranger, is because the Ford Explorer which is an rbv (ranger-based-vehicle) had an option which actually came from the factory with 5.0L v-8's. In fact some of the best flowing heads for the 5.0 were had on the 1997+ Ford explorers which is known as the GT40-p head, which is scavenged by many mustang builders, as well as v-8 ranger builders. Your truck is right on the split where there is few enough electronics where you could step back to a carb-setup v-8 302, or keep your electronics and pick up a v-8 explorer engine, the pcm and harness, the trans, and go from there. you have plenty of options on your plate.
__________________
2002 xlt 4.0sohc w/airaid intake/5-speed hurst/gibson exhaust/1" pa bl/4.10LS/4 hella 500's modded 100w xenon/more to come...
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old 08-24-2010, 03:51 PM
Ranger Kid Ranger Kid is offline
4.Pro
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 569
Default Re: What would be the most

that's defiantly a helper.
Now I asked this earlier but I want to hear more than one opinion. Manual valve body takes power out of your truck?
__________________
91' Ford Ranger 4.0 Custom
Let's just say it's not stock
Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old 08-25-2010, 05:21 AM
Psychopete Psychopete is offline
Psycho Pete
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,489
Default Re: What would be the most

'91 5.0L swap can't use the later stuff as bolt in though. Closest to bolt in would be adapter plates. Most use Mustang Convertible mounts and drill/slot the cross member. Wouldn't recommend this swap if you don't really know a lot of general info about OBD-I Fords and how to find information, or if you've never swapped an engine before. There really is more to it than what it appears at face value. Everything you'd need to know to do the swap is out there though.
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old 08-25-2010, 04:26 PM
EERNGER EERNGER is offline
Learning to use the forums
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 14
Default Re: What would be the most

Quote:
Originally Posted by Psychopete View Post
'91 5.0L swap can't use the later stuff as bolt in though. Closest to bolt in would be adapter plates. Most use Mustang Convertible mounts and drill/slot the cross member. Wouldn't recommend this swap if you don't really know a lot of general info about OBD-I Fords and how to find information, or if you've never swapped an engine before. There really is more to it than what it appears at face value. Everything you'd need to know to do the swap is out there though.
This brings up a heck of a valid point. If this truck is your DD i would highly suggest another option than a 5.0 swap. There is plenty of down time and plenty of frustration which is going to be had with any engine swap, and these factors will keep you out of your truck for a bit longer than many anticipate. I would stick to gears, if this is your DD, and if you are not satisfied with what you get out of the gears, save your money for a mustang 5.0. This will give you the best of both worlds, you will have a pretty snappy DD, and a weekend warrior mustang to tinker with.
__________________
2002 xlt 4.0sohc w/airaid intake/5-speed hurst/gibson exhaust/1" pa bl/4.10LS/4 hella 500's modded 100w xenon/more to come...
Reply With Quote
  #50  
Old 08-25-2010, 05:58 PM
SpitfireEMT SpitfireEMT is offline
Muddy, as usual
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 386
Send a message via MSN to SpitfireEMT
Default Re: What would be the most

You could gasket match your intake. Wont produce earth shattering results, but anything that lets her breathe easier is good, right?
__________________
2000 XLT 4x4, 4dr ext cab, 4.0L OHV, 4.10 LSD
265/75/16 Goodyear Duratracs
Mountaineer seats, Expo OHC
2003 EDGE front clip conversion
133rwhp/192rwtq-->6-28-11

1969 Mercury Cougar
351W, FMX, 3:1 open diff in a Ford 9"
Undergoing restoration
Reply With Quote
  #51  
Old 08-27-2010, 09:29 PM
Ranger Kid Ranger Kid is offline
4.Pro
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 569
Default Re: What would be the most

What about a manual valve body? does it take power out of the truck?
__________________
91' Ford Ranger 4.0 Custom
Let's just say it's not stock
Reply With Quote
  #52  
Old 11-27-2010, 09:49 AM
StrokerScamp StrokerScamp is offline
Ford Ranger Owner
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 72
Default Re: What would be the most

The throttle body spacer on this type of injection is snake oil. For it to have an effect, the fuel would have to be injected before the spacer, such as with a carburetor or a TBI unit. Since the injectors are at the intake port entrances to the heads in the intake, the spacer will never have an effect on fuel. Also, by the time the air charge itself has made it through the intake and gotten to the fuel, the distance between the spacer and the intake ports is so great that any influence the spacer had on the incoming air charge is now gone. A throttle body spacer for these applications is nothing more than a paper weight.

On the CAI arguement, it's always been "MY" opinion that the word "COLD" in CAI simply refers to air that is not heated by the engine. In other words, through a fenderwell, through the firewall into the cowl area, or through the radiator support. Simple as that. As some have stated, you ain't gonna make the engine see any more air using an aftermarket CAI and in most cases, they don't even exit the engine compartment so they can actually hurt performance. Now, one thing that I have "NOT" seen discussed that MIGHT can actually make a difference.....and I've made the mod many times for customers in the past, WITH good feedback. First, KEEP the stock air box. Secondly, axe any baffling inside the box because all that is for is noise reduction. Third...and this is where any "possible" performance improvements can come from. Make the transition from the air box to the engine as smooth as possible. The factories make these air intake hoses ribbed, for, once again....noise reduction. Getting a metal intake pipe kit and piecing together your own intake pipe while retaining the factory air box is your best bet. Just like headers smooth out the exhaust transition, a smooth air intake can do the same coming into the engine. Have I seen dyno proof? No. Am I sayin it makes more power? No, but it might. All of these OBDII systems are learning systems. They can adjust to minor modifications to a point. In other words, a LITLE more air and the computer will time for a LITTLE more fuel. It's cheap and easy to do and it just makes sense that smoother is better for air going in and out of an engine. It is after all, only an air pump. The easier you can make it's job, the more efficient it will be. Course all this is just from "MY" personal experience from doing the work. Flame away if you feel the need. lol

Last edited by StrokerScamp; 11-27-2010 at 09:54 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #53  
Old 10-08-2011, 07:30 PM
JDFeniello JDFeniello is offline
In search of Knowledge
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 30
Default Re: What would be the most

Quote:
Originally Posted by camodown View Post
If you want go buy a $200 CAI and all you will have is a fancy looking intake that sucks up the exact same air as the stock intake or hotter air if you have an open filter in the engine compartment. There is nothing cold about it.

You will get a different sound out of it but there will be no power gains.
Absolutely right. Unless you want to weld some kind of hollow box around your cars intake, lest say, sticking out of the grill, that you could put ice in. You're not going to get any colder than the air rushing past the front of the car. Thats why cars are designed with their radiators there. its the coldest place on a moving car without refrigerating an intake, which would be ridiculously difficult. i hesitate to say impossible, but altogether and entirely improbable.
__________________
Owner of a 1994 V6 4.0 Liter Automatic Transmission Ranger with 4 Wheel Drive and the XLT extended cab package. 280,000+ Miles (Yeah i know its a lot. I signed up to Ford Ranger Forum so i could get information on how to fix it up)
Reply With Quote
  #54  
Old 12-04-2011, 10:24 AM
tecshark tecshark is offline
Learning to use the forums
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 1
Default Try K&N Filter

My 09 Ranger 4x4 Sport seems to get better mileage and performnce now, after I installed K&N Filter. ~ $50.
Steve
Reply With Quote
  #55  
Old 12-05-2011, 05:54 AM
Andy D Andy D is offline
Ford Tough
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 264
Default Re: What would be the most

bolt -on HP costs money. Knowledge and sweat can replace some of the money. That is simply the way it is, No way are you gonna increase power and speed cheaply. That is the way it is. Oh and a manual valve body will not make you go any faster than the stock. Google :Tanstaafl
__________________
"94 extended cab.4x4/ V6 pushrod 4.0? /5spd/ 600$ .rat. just bought 6/19/11 I'm a noob , teach me the true path to Ranger gooodness O wise ones.
Reply With Quote
  #56  
Old 02-25-2013, 11:46 AM
ACisntFree ACisntFree is offline
Like the Forums
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 39
Default

This thread is awesome. I've got a '91 4.o 4x2 with only 55k miles on it and I've been going over these option in my head for the last couple weeks; awesome to see it all kinda laid out!!
__________________
1991 XLT 4.0 V6 4x2
Reply With Quote
  #57  
Old 03-22-2013, 09:28 PM
weathermaker weathermaker is offline
oh fk yeah bud!
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 678
Default Re: What would be the most

easy and cheap route would be weight,
ditch the tail gate and get a net, get rid of a tool bax if you got one, backseats, take out plastic bedliner, any backracks/ headache racks.
get alloy wheels and a good set of street tires.
__________________
four by four, CB radio & a gps. all you really need

Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search