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  #16  
Old 09-04-2018, 08:25 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: 2004 4.0 V6 having multiple issues help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slammed337 View Post
So hear are the codes finally
Got IAT CODE FIXED minor improvement
So CODES
P0174 fuel too lean bank 2
P0300 random misfire detected
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire
P0302 cylinder 2 misfire
P0303 cylinder 3 misfire
P0316 misfire in first 1000 revolutions

Thoughts? Vacuum line?
Couple things to point out here.. P0300 throw away for the most part. Its a generic code that will go away once you find the source of the 301, 302, 303 codes.

Cylinders 1, 2, 3 are all on the same side.


Common Problems That Trigger the P0301, P0302, P0303
  1. Worn out spark plugs, ignition wires, coil(s), distributor cap and rotor (when applicable)
  2. Incorrect ignition timing
  3. Vacuum leak(s)
  4. Low or weak fuel pressure
  5. Improperly functioning EGR system
  6. Defective Mass Air Flow Sensor
  7. Defective Crankshaft and/or Camshaft Sensor
  8. Defective Throttle Position Sensor
  9. Mechanical engine problems (i.e.—low compression, leaking head gasket(s), or valve problems

Common Misdiagnoses
  • Fuel Injectors
  • Oxygen Sensor(s)
  • Powertrain/Drivetrain problems

P0301 Diagnostic Theory for Shops and Technicians

"When the code P0301 is set in the Powertrain Computer, it means that the Misfire Monitor has detected more than a 2 percent variance in RPM between the firing of any two (or more) cylinders in the firing order. The Misfire Monitor constantly checks the rotational speed of the Crankshaft by counting the pulses of the Crankshaft Sensor. The Monitor wants to see a smooth increase or decrease in engine RPM.

If there are jerky and sudden changes in the speed output of the Crankshaft Sensor, the Misfire Monitor begins to count the RPM increase (or lack thereof) contributed by each cylinder. If it varies beyond 2 percent, the Monitor will set a P0301 code and illuminate the Check Engine Light. If there is more than a 10 percent variance, the Check Engine Light will blink or pulse in a steady manner to indicate that a harmful Catalytic Converter misfire is occurring.

When diagnosing a P0301 code, it is important to record the freeze frame information and then duplicate the code setting conditions with a test drive. Pay close attention to the engine load, throttle position, RPM, and road speed because a P0301 (which is a specific misfire) can sometimes be difficult to detect. If the Engine System has a Misfire Counter for specific cylinders on the Scan Tool Data Stream, pay very close attention to the cylinders(s) named in the misfire code(s).

If there is not a Cylinder Misfire Counter, then you might have to switch components—such as coils, spark plugs, etc.—in order to isolate the root cause of the misfire. It is also important to note and record any other codes because the engine may be misfiring due to the failure or malfunction of another system or component.
Common Causes for an Engine Misfire and Code P0301


Ignition Misfire

An Ignition System problem is one of the most common reasons for an engine to misfire. As the spark plugs, ignition cables, distributor cap and rotor, and ignition coil wear over time, their ability to transfer the needed spark to ignite the air/fuel mixture inside the combustion chambers becomes compromised. In the early stages, the spark will only be weaker and the actual misfire will be subtle. As the ignition components continue to wear, the misfire will intensify and the combustion process can be interrupted completely. This will cause a severe jerk or shock in the operation of the engine (the engine may even backfire through the air intake system, producing a loud "pop").

Carefully inspect all of the Ignition System components for wear and heat damage. The Spark Plug terminals should have a sandy color and not be blackened with soot, white from an overheating combustion chamber, or greenish from coolant. Neither the Ignition Cables nor the Coil(s) should have any signs of arcing. If possible, Scope Check the Ignition System to ensure that the firing voltages are even—about 8 to 10 kilovolts per cylinder. If there is a Distributor on the engine, remove the Distributor Cap and Rotor. Inspect their terminals and contact points for wear, signs of arcing, and/or any buildup from corrosion. Though all ODB II vehicles have computer controlled timing, be sure to verify that it is within spec, even if it uses individual coils.

Lean Misfire

The lean misfire is another common reason for an engine "miss"—this is due to an imbalanced air/fuel ratio (too much air/too little fuel). Since an engine needs a richer (more fuel) mixture for a smooth idle, this problem may be more noticeable when the vehicle is idling. The lean misfire may decrease or disappear as the engine speed increases because the efficiency of the volumetric flow into the combustion chambers increases dramatically. This is one reason why a vehicle gets better mileage on the freeway than in the city. An EGR valve that is stuck open, a leaking Intake Manifold Gasket, a defective Mass Air Flow Sensor, a weak or failing fuel pump, or a plugged fuel filter are some of the many causes for a lean misfire.

Pay very close attention to the Long Term Fuel Trim values because they indicate how much the Powertrain Computer is compensating for an imbalanced air/fuel ratio. If the Long Term Fuel Trim is over 10 percent on one bank of cylinders and not the other, there might be a vacuum leak or defective/cracked intake manifold on that specific bank. It is important to determine what is causing this amount of compensation. Check the Fuel Trim "numbers" over the full range of operating conditions. A healthy engine should have Long Term Fuel Trim numbers around 1 to 3 percent, either positive or negative.

Mechanical Misfire

Mechanical problems can also cause an engine to misfire. Common causes of a mechanical misfire are worn piston rings, valves, cylinder walls, or lobes on a camshaft; a leaking head gasket or intake manifold gasket; damaged or broken rocker arms; defective fuel injectors (and/or the electronics that control them); and a slipped or incorrectly-installed timing belt or timing chain. Generally, this type of misfire has more of a "thumping" feel to it. It is usually noticeable regardless of engine speed; in fact, it may even intensify as the engine speed increases.

A Compression Test and an engine idle Manifold Vacuum Test are two very important methods of determining the mechanical condition of the engine. Compression readings that are consistent (within 10 percent of each other), and at least 120 PSI per cylinder and a minimum of seventeen inches of steady vacuum, are required for reasonably smooth and complete combustion.

Powertrain Misfire

Sometimes, the engine has nothing to do with a misfire. One common cause for "jerky" performance that feels like a misfire is a problem in the transmission and its ability to properly up- or down-shift. If the misfire occurs during higher speeds, it could be a problem with the operation of the overdrive gear or a chattering clutch in the Lockup Torque Converter. If the vehicle jerks or feels like it is "missing" during deceleration, it could be due to harsh transmission downshifts, badly warped rotors, out of round brake drums, and/or sticking brake pads or brake shoes.

Vehicles can set misfire codes when badly warped and out of round rear brake drums violently jerk the entire powertrain when the vehicle slows from highway speeds. Make sure that you have the vehicle properly inspected in order to determine the root cause of the misfire. Entire engines have been replaced to solve a wrongly perceived mechanical misfire problem that was actually rooted in the transfer case, transmission, driveshaft, or front/rear differential."

-------------------------------------------------

P0174 Symptoms
  1. Check Engine Light will illuminate
  2. In some cases, no adverse conditions may be noticed by the driver
  3. In other cases, there may be performance problems, such as a lack of power on acceleration and some "coughing" or misfiring
  4. The vehicle may have trouble idling, especially when warm or when sitting at a stoplight

Common Problems That Trigger the P0174 Code
  1. PCM software needs to be updated
  2. Vacuum leaks (Intake Manifold Gaskets, vacuum hoses, PCV hoses, etc.)
  3. Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF)
  4. Plugged Fuel Filter or weak Fuel Pump
  5. Plugged or dirty Fuel Injectors

Common Misdiagnosis
  1. Oxygen Sensor replaced when the issue lies elsewhere


Ill bet if you fix the misfire or the lean code the other codes will go away.
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  #17  
Old 09-06-2018, 03:30 PM
Slammed337 Slammed337 is offline
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Default Re: 2004 4.0 V6 having multiple issues help

Looking into all this
Very very helpful information
Any thoughts on being intake manifold cracked on lower side or gasket?
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  #18  
Old 09-06-2018, 08:32 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: 2004 4.0 V6 having multiple issues help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slammed337 View Post
Looking into all this
Very very helpful information
Any thoughts on being intake manifold cracked on lower side or gasket?
I would suspect a sucked in gasket more than a cracked one IF that were the case but I think thats rare.
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  #19  
Old 09-20-2018, 02:04 PM
Slammed337 Slammed337 is offline
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Default Re: 2004 4.0 V6 having multiple issues help

Finally had some time and went through the truck with not much luck. Developed a coolant leak which was fortunately an easy fix of the thermostat housing.
But took the intake manifold off and replaced the intake manifold gaskets as well as inspected the intake for leaks with smoke test. No luck. But found oil in the manifold and replaced PCV valve
Still no luck.
Trucks runs but still rough
Any thoughts? As no vacuum leaks seem present it would lead towards ignition or spark issue correct?
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  #20  
Old 09-22-2018, 11:44 AM
Slammed337 Slammed337 is offline
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Default Re: 2004 4.0 V6 having multiple issues help

Me and a local mechanic(friend of mine) messed with it some more and I need to double check the spark plug but it is at this point either a dead cylinder #3 or spark plug is completely done which seems unlikely as they were changed within last 25000 miles

If cylinder is dead what are my options or costs to fix?
He said it seemed like exhaust valve was burnt due to previous owner driving long term with lean air fuel mixtures

Thoughts or opinions?
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