Well I'll do gaskets and torque it down and see if any change. If not I guess it's fuel regulator. Idk how it would go out if I just did cam syncro. I didn't touch it


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Vacuum line? Do I smell for fuel in the haccum line or


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CroKarlo 1998 ford ranger 4x4
auto trans
4.0
fiberglass
Phx,AZ

Do the freakin smoke test. It costs a $1 cigar and will save you a lot of time.

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1997 Ranger XLT 4.0L 2wd 3.55 open
RCX leveling coils, Pro Comp AAL, 1" BL
31x10.5x15 General Grabber AT2

Vacuum lines are fine. Installed a new syncro and sensor exactly by the book. Has fuel pressure and everything. But low speeds wide open Boggs down and no power


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CroKarlo 1998 ford ranger 4x4
auto trans
4.0
fiberglass
Phx,AZ

OK since you are still having problems, and there has been so many post on this thread
since your first request for help please get us up to date and clarify you last post.

You say the vacuum lines are fine.

( great I will take your word for it and trust you tested for any vacuum leaks with the appropriate method and found no leaks either at the lines or intake )

I also understand that you installed ( another or second new cam syncro ) this time you are 100% positive it was installed correctly.

What sensor are you talking about that you replaced again?

Do you currently have a check engine light and codes stored?

If you have codes what are they?

This is just to get us up to date on your current problem or problems with your truck.

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2002 Ford Ranger 2 Dr Standard cab 2.3 5 SPD 7.5 373 gears

Vacuum lines are fine. Gaskets are fine. New mass air flow. New iac. New tps. I installed the new syncro and sensor incorrectly I installed it at 10 degrees past top dead center due to a forum member telling me to do so. I bought the Haynes manual and it says only do that for 96-96 ohv. 97-2000 you set the engine at top dead center compression stroke which I did. And set the syncro with the tool so it's aligned and stab it in. Which I did. Runs way better now. But problem is at low speeds it has no acceleration up until 20 mph. It ideals a bit rough then corrects itself. The only code I saw was p0340 cam sensor. When I installed it correctly everything by the book I used a brand new syncro and a sensor that was new but installed incorrectly. The sensor is just a magnet. But maybe the new sensor being installed incorrectly has caused it to go bad. Idk what else it could be


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CroKarlo 1998 ford ranger 4x4
auto trans
4.0
fiberglass
Phx,AZ

OK I think you are still dealing with a bad or incorrectly installed camshaft synchronizer.

What brand part did you use?

What brand alignment tool did you use?

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2002 Ford Ranger 2 Dr Standard cab 2.3 5 SPD 7.5 373 gears

This video may help you. Keep in mind this video is for a 1999 Ranger with a 4.0 yours may be different and you need to go by the manual.

I suggest going by a Ford manual or Alldata the Haynes manual may blur multiple years together which could lead you down the wrong path with the wrong information.

Also make sure to check for any relevant Technical service bulletins either with the part or service procedure to make sure you are going by the latest information available.

I would make sure to use a OEM New Ford part.

If you have a new Ford sensor and shaft synchronizer and are still having the same problem, then you need to diagnose the problem using the OEM Ford pin point test
for the code or codes that are present.

These pin point test can be found with an Alldata subscription or Ford service manual

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2002 Ford Ranger 2 Dr Standard cab 2.3 5 SPD 7.5 373 gears

I did it exactly like that and motorcraft parts. And the alignment tool thag came with it. I think the sensor is bad or something else no idea. I'll have to try to pin test to confirm


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CroKarlo 1998 ford ranger 4x4
auto trans
4.0
fiberglass
Phx,AZ

Try This?.....
or this... http://www.cleanmpg.com/community/in...?threads/2463/

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1995 Ranger XLT 3.0L OBDII
Trans: A4LD (E) 2WD
Rear: 7.5 / 3.45 NL LHD
Tires:GY P235 75/R15 (orig 225 70/R14)
Long Bed, 20 Gal Tank
Up to 229,900 miles

I've done that. Battery is disconnected for a few days too and I start it and it's giving me issues


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CroKarlo 1998 ford ranger 4x4
auto trans
4.0
fiberglass
Phx,AZ

Help I have a "tapping" Coming from what sounds like the front portion of the engine. I have tore it down to the water pump, cleaned and put it back together. I have installed a new power steering pump. I have pulled the oil pan and pump cleaned tested and reinstalled it. I have taken the top half of the engine all the way down to the lifters and cam. The engine had quite a bit of sludge and carbon so I cleaned and lubricated the lifters and bore checked the push rods for wear and cleaned those. I cleaned and inspected the pivots rocker arms and surrounding area. I put everything back as it came out with new assembly lube and torqued it all with the two step process at TDC in firing order. All to start the engine to still have a what sounds like
A lifter smacking the valve cover. I have inspected everything and found no obvious over wear so that just doesn't seem possible. The disturbing part is when I bring the idle up the engine starts to knock and sound like it's gonna come apart. Help me find what's wrong as I am all out of ideas

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I have a 97 Mazda b3000 4x4. The reason I'm here is. Because it has the 3.0L V6 engine in it with 168,000 miles on the odometer