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  #1  
Old 06-17-2009, 03:01 PM
armymech2 armymech2 is offline
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Default Help!!!

I just bought a 93 Ranger 4.0 V6 and it keeps stalling out after I start it and let it run for a while it sputters real bad Ive replaced the fuel filter checked the spark plugs and wires and any ideas.
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  #2  
Old 06-17-2009, 04:39 PM
sniper141 sniper141 is offline
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Check your vacuum lines, egr valve or maybe your termostat.
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  #3  
Old 06-18-2009, 07:46 PM
sleeperanger sleeperanger is offline
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hey bro...i just had the same extact problem. check you fuel pump cut off switch. its on the floor just were the passenger puts their feet. press it... if that dont work...try holding it in while a buddy( or gf) starts rthe truck...if that work the switch went bad( like mine) 150$....it sucked. but thats your issue...not no damn vacum line..
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Old 06-19-2009, 07:04 AM
98blownranger 98blownranger is offline
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I would think it is you IAC Idle air control, the are under $30 if you can get it to run while hold you foot on the gas a little then this is for sure your problem
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  #5  
Old 06-19-2009, 03:54 PM
sniper141 sniper141 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeperanger View Post
hey bro...i just had the same extact problem. check you fuel pump cut off switch. its on the floor just were the passenger puts their feet. press it... if that dont work...try holding it in while a buddy( or gf) starts rthe truck...if that work the switch went bad( like mine) 150$....it sucked. but thats your issue...not no damn vacum line..
I was just givin some suggestions, not need to be a dickbag.
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  #6  
Old 06-19-2009, 09:52 PM
sleeperanger sleeperanger is offline
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no need to name call...fagbag...what are you 16....last thing this poor guy wants to do is go and replace all this stuff when he dont need to...im merely speaking from experience
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  #7  
Old 06-19-2009, 10:34 PM
Jay FX4 Jay FX4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeperanger View Post
no need to name call...fagbag...what are you 16....last thing this poor guy wants to do is go and replace all this stuff when he dont need to...im merely speaking from experience
You can't tell someone not to call you names if you're going to turn around and do the same thing. If it was the fuel cutoff switch as you say, then he wouldn't be able to let it "run for a while" which is what the OP said.
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  #8  
Old 06-21-2009, 09:15 AM
sniper141 sniper141 is offline
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Well put Jay, figured someone that says he's had that much experience would have caught on to that. Guess none of us know what we are talking about though, except him. I guess he thinks one has to replace a bunch of stuff instead of testing it first.
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  #9  
Old 06-23-2009, 09:22 AM
Psychopete Psychopete is offline
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Does the engine run fine cold, then start running poorly once it's up to operating temperature? The computer will go into closed loop once things are up to temp, I wonder if one of the sensors that default on initial start up is at fault? Might be worth while to test the resistance on the coil pack when it's cold and warm.

The first place I would start is pulling codes; KOEO, CM, and especially KOER. The problem could be a wide number of things, best place to start looking is the computer system for faults.

A good tune up wouldn't hurt. I do this every time I buy a used vehicle. Not only is it good practice, but it rules a maintenance item out of question. Though it may not correct the problem, like I said, it's good to keep your truck up on maintenance.

Pete
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  #10  
Old 06-24-2009, 01:07 PM
armymech2 armymech2 is offline
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It will not start cold, I did a tune up and found the spark plugs were not gaped right they were at .32 instead of .52 to .56, changed the air and fuel filter checked the vacuum lines new plug wires and check the coil pack. It will not stay started long enough for me to take it and have the codes read.
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  #11  
Old 06-25-2009, 06:16 AM
Psychopete Psychopete is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armymech2 View Post
It will not start cold, I did a tune up and found the spark plugs were not gaped right they were at .32 instead of .52 to .56, changed the air and fuel filter checked the vacuum lines new plug wires and check the coil pack. It will not stay started long enough for me to take it and have the codes read.
I believe you can pull them yourself if it is a '93 - still OBD-I, but 3 digit codes.
Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

There are 4 diagrams on the top of that page, you won't need the test light or volt meter if your check engine light works. Just need to follow the bottom diagram or picture, hook up a jumper made out of a small piece of wire, and follow the instructions.

Pete
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  #12  
Old 07-04-2009, 12:44 PM
Martin224
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Hi,

why don't you check your vacuum lines and Air compressor..... This might be solve your problem
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  #13  
Old 07-15-2009, 12:01 PM
sniper141 sniper141 is offline
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Wow, looks like somone else thinks the same as the rest of us.
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  #14  
Old 07-15-2009, 05:46 PM
mrphdvr mrphdvr is offline
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If it still won't run after all you did, you can check the Idle Air Control valve. If it doesn't start and stay runninng with your foot on the gas then that probably isn't it.
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  #15  
Old 07-23-2009, 12:06 AM
Doomshanks Doomshanks is offline
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Default Plausable solution for loss of power

Check the computer for corrosion, actually remove it from the passenger side panel in front of the door and seperate the ECU from the harness. There is a flaw in the ranger's drainage system that directs water down to a corrosion holding point near the antenna actually behind the body panel. This point sits directly over the computer. If the terminals of the computer are corroded then this is the problem with the fuel management system...maybe. It worked for me, i have a 92'. I swapped the computer from a junk yard and siliconed up the cracks after filling them in with "great stuff". Fired it up and it ran like a completely different truck.
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