Throwing multiple codes--HELP

[dixie_boysles]

I'm baffled. The truck has been running beautiful. No hint of any malfunction. I get get off work, hop in truck, cranks and runs fine. Come home change, jump back I'm truck and crank it. It cranks and runs BUT, it starts idling rough (I mean really rough). I give it some gas and it sputters and spits back. No check engine light though. I get to end of driveway and the check engine light pops on and she dies. I crank her back up and she starts and runs but idling and sputtering really bad. I take the 4.0 plastic cover off and stat looking at the sensors. I unplugged the TPS and plug it back in. When I cranked it, it ran better (enough to drive and get codes read and get back home). When I get back home and turn it off and try to crank it again, its worse. Now it idles super low and just chugs. I got the following codes at Advance Auto:

P0122
System 2 Bank 1

P0171
System to lean
Bank 1

P0174
System to lean
Bank 2

P0300
Multiple cylinder misfires

P0122
TPS/Pedal
Sensor A circuit low input

I think I have these right. Wrote them down fast. Either way its throwing codes bad as you can see and it happened all at once which makes me belive its the TPS or a vacuum leak. Could possibly be the MAF sensor, but I'm no mechanic. Someone with knowledge of these 4.0s please help, I need this truck fixed tomorrow. Going to Advance tomorrow to get a new TPS and install it to see if that helps. If not, ill put original back on and then I'm clueless. PLEASE HELP. Thanks

[dixie_boysles]

Here is the plug I unplugged and plugged back in and the truck ran somewhat better to allow me to get it to store to run codes. Am I right in saying this is for the TPS?

[littleblue]

Here is what the Ford manual says about your codes:

P0122 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low
For Vehicles With Electronic Throttle Control (ETC)
Description: The electronic throttle control (ETC) throttle position (TP) sensor 1 circuit was flagged as a concern by the powertrain control module (PCM) indicating a low voltage or open circuit.
Possible Causes: Open ETC TP sensor harness
Short to ground in the ETC TP sensor harness
Damaged TP sensor
SIG RTN circuit open to the TP sensor

P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1)
Description: The adaptive fuel strategy continuously monitors the fuel delivery hardware. The test fails when the adaptive fuel tables reach a rich calibrated limit. Refer to Section 1, Powertrain Control Software Fuel Trim for more information.
Possible Causes: Fuel System:
Damaged or leaking fuel pulse damper
Fuel filter plugged or dirty
Damaged or worn fuel pump
Leaking fuel pump check valve
Leaking/contaminated fuel injectors
Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel
EVAP canister purge valve is leaking when the canister is clean
Fuel supply line restricted
Fuel rail pressure sensor bias
Air Induction System:
Air leaks after the mass air flow (MAF) sensor
Vacuum leaks
PCV system is leaking or the valve is stuck open
Improperly seated engine oil dipstick
Exhaust System:
Exhaust leaks in the exhaust manifold gasket or mating gaskets before or near the HO2S
EGR System:
Vacuum hose disconnected on exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system module (ESM) applications
EGR valve tube/gasket leak
EVR solenoid vacuum leak
Secondary Air Injection:
Damaged secondary air injection system or a mechanically stuck valve
Air Measurement System:
Damaged or contaminated MAF sensor

P0174 - System Too Lean (Bank 2)
Description: See the description for DTC P0171.
Possible Causes: See the possible causes for DTC P0171.
Diagnostic Aids: See the diagnostic aids for DTC P0171.

P0300 - Random Misfire Detected
Description: The random misfire DTC indicates multiple cylinders are misfiring or the powertrain control module (PCM) cannot identify which cylinder is misfiring.
Possible Causes: Camshaft position sensor (CMP)
Low fuel (less than 1/8 tank)
Stuck open EGR valve
Blocked EGR passages

Your possible problems are the TPS sensor (one you unpluged) and first listed code, the EGR system (a constant theme through all the codes except for the first) or camshaft position sensor/sycronizer. If it was making any belt slipping type sounds prior to the problem I would say the cps. Was your tank low, could be the fuel filter has gotten clogged with debris. Hope this gives you someplace to start.

[dixie_boysles]

Thansk for the help. No the truck has been running fine. No belt slipping, no anything. Its all happened at once. I'm going to stat with the TPS since its 20 bucks...lol. Thanks for the help.

[littleblue]

Glad it gave you some direction. Hope you don't have to throw to many parts at it. Maybe someone else has experienced the same problem and can add some input.

[dixie_boysles]

Google "throttle position sensor". There is a link that says symptoms of a bad throttle position sensor. In that link and another, the symptoms that it lists are my problem. When I could drive it, it lacked power. Then now I can't, it sputters and dies and idles real bad.

[dixie_boysles]

Alright fellas, it WAS the Throttle Position sensor (TPS) that was throwing all the codes. Ford wanted $76 for one, I got mine at Advance for $22. Thanks Myke (STL) for helping me out, you helped big time!

This job was simple yet a PIA. The sensor is held on by two star screws. They strip very easy so be careful if u ever have to do this. I actually stripped mine and replace them with #10 screws with phillips head, works much better. When u do this, make sure to undo the negative battey cable to reset computer while u work. Take old sensor off. When u put new sensor on, it DOES go a certain way back on. There is a paddle that connects to the throttle cable . The shaft runs across the air intake hose ance comes out at the TPS. When u give it throttle, the paddle turns a mechanism in the sensor for it to judge how much fuel and stuff to give the engine. That's why I was throwing lean codes and stuff. When I replaced it this morning, I followed the Haynes manual, it said to make sure the paddle lines up with slot in sensor. Well it didn't say how. I took and lifted the throttle cable to let it turn the paddle until it lined up----wrong. You have to take the sensor with plug end facing u and somewhat up to line it up with paddle. Then turn counter clockwise until screw hole line up. U don't have to turn it fa, like a fraction of a turn. Then put screws back, plug in, replace 4.0 cover, plug battery back up-done.

Thought I'd give ya'll the heads up on this bc it seems simple, but if u have the TPS turned wrong, you will break the sensor mechanism (like I did) and the truck will idle fine, but truck will shift really hard and early.

Again thanks everyone that helped with this!

[STL]

Thats what this forum is all about helping on another.

[rwenzing]

Originally Posted by dixie_boysles

I was having truck problems, idling super bad and sputtering. I replaced the TPS and it runs good again.m I may be paranoid, but it seems like it idles a little lower (not much) than normal now. Or when I'm at idle and turn off the A/C, it seems to drop RPMs lower than it used to. Again, I just may be paranoid, any ideas bob

After a battery cable disconnect, it takes a while for the PCM to relearn the average IAC flow rates for each of the four warm idle modes: P/N w/AC, P/N w/o A/C, D/R w/A/C and D/R w/o A/C. During that learning period, there may be dips and flares in idle speed immediately after changing from one mode to another. This should not affect the general idle speed though.

I don't know the exact idle specs for your particular Ranger but they would typically be in the 600~700 range for a warm engine in most late model Fords w/automatic. If that's where it is, I wouldn't worry about it.

In the closed throttle position, the ideal voltage from the TPS to the PCM is 0.98~1.0V. However, anything from 0.53~1.25V is acceptable.