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  #1  
Old 06-08-2010, 10:35 PM
alaux1 alaux1 is offline
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Default Fuel Pump

Greetings everyone. I recently bought a 1994 Ranger XL with 75,000 actual miles. So far its fantastic. Couple little problems. The fuel gauge is stuck on empty. I'm guessing a bad float. Could use any suggestions.

I was skimming through the forums and found one discussion about fuel pumps so I wanted a little clarification from anyone. If I understand everything correctly, rather than drop the gas tank, the best bet is to lift the front of the bed exposing the gas tank and make the change.

I'm also guessing the fuel pump and float will be one unit and if I'm lifting the bed I might as well do it all at once. Should I use an OEM Fuel Pump or is there something after-market that would be a better way to go.

Thanks for your thoughts - Alan
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  #2  
Old 06-09-2010, 12:54 AM
Radarmy088 Radarmy088 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 69
Default Re: Fuel Pump

if you have it out might as well replace it brother...i have done fuel pumps and have just droped the tank. moving the bed can pull wiring or stretch it. the way i see it, the lazy man works twice as hard
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  #3  
Old 06-09-2010, 05:18 AM
AlphaRanger AlphaRanger is offline
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Default Re: Fuel Pump

Ive replaced my entire Pump assembly not long ago got one from advanced, the bed isn't that bad if you have a friend to help remove it. I undid the connector behind the bumper which is the tail lights, the 6 bed bolts, and 3 bolts at the filler cap then a friend helped me lift it off, I also used the opportunity to clean everything.
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  #4  
Old 06-10-2010, 05:06 PM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: Fuel Pump

I am with alpharanger i will copy and paste my bed removal post. Dont forget to check the vacuum line on your fuel pressure regulator. it is on the fuel rail

In many cases Removing the Bed is Helps in the aiding of repairs. ie. Fuel pump replacement, hanger and shackle replacement, etc

1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts 7mm?

2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.

3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks
4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator
I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.

4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed my 2 Men. a cherry picker.

5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #5  
Old 06-10-2010, 05:10 PM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: Fuel Pump

if your truck has been n arizona its whole life you should be all set. the leafsoring shckles and hangers rust out. also if you have the 5 speed you have rubber plugs at the top of the tranny they are known to leak. do a drain and fill on the tranny a little over 3 quarts mercon or mercon V.
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #6  
Old 10-26-2010, 03:19 PM
SolarRover87 SolarRover87 is offline
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Default Re: Fuel Pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaRanger View Post
Ive replaced my entire Pump assembly not long ago got one from advanced, the bed isn't that bad if you have a friend to help remove it. I undid the connector behind the bumper which is the tail lights, the 6 bed bolts, and 3 bolts at the filler cap then a friend helped me lift it off, I also used the opportunity to clean everything.
Alpha Ranger how is the pump from Advanced? I got quotes from Advanced O'Rileys, NAPA, Ford and Mazda. FORD MAZDA and NAPA were about $410, O'rileys and advanced about $180. Just want to know if you happy with the non OEM
Thanks SolarRover87
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  #7  
Old 10-26-2010, 11:56 PM
AlphaRanger AlphaRanger is offline
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Default Re: Fuel Pump

The one I got is made by Airtex which works Just as good
Though a few months later a got a check engine light for the sensor on top for the Evap called the Fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor which somehow completely failed, I switched it with the OEM one from the old assembly and haven't had a problem since.
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  #8  
Old 10-29-2010, 01:42 PM
Giangrosso Giangrosso is offline
97 ranger
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 106
Default Re: Fuel Pump

not knocking the airtex fuel sunding unit assembly from oriley's but the one i bought every time i get right under 1/4 tank of fuel when i go to take off after stopping, it will stall out in-between 5 to 10 seconds depending upon how hard i stop. im actually looking at buy a new pump and putting it in the assembly
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  #9  
Old 10-30-2010, 08:11 PM
SolarRover87 SolarRover87 is offline
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Default Re: Fuel Pump

Replaced the Pump today Pull the Bed by far the easiest solution. However no one mentioned that taking of the pump retaining ring can be a challenge. I did not have the tool and no one had it to loan. I purchase a strap wrench and that worked. The ring is quite large and you need a strap wrench that will go around it.

Spraying the six bed bolts with break free and letting them soak overnight and then hitting each hard with a hammer made them easy to take out. I thank all of you for the great comm nets that helped me a lot. Please vote on Tuesday..
SolarRover
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