Jason, first, please don't freak out. I am not trying to be a dick despite what you may think/assume. I am not posting this to attack you. I am not posting this because it is you. I am posting this because it is correct information regardless of who posted the wrong information. Please don't read more into it than that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pooleo
I dont think the pump is the problem, there mechanical and simple. If the belt is grabbing the pulley, then its turning the fins inside. Unless the fins are completely worn flat. Usually the bearings will fail in the water pump, cause it to loose coolant. When the bearing goes out, it will leak.
|
Actually the usual pump failure
is the impeller rotting out and being totally flat. That's what I've been saying. Exactly these symptoms have been caused by this problem many times on here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pooleo
Even if your t-stat is bad, eventually it will warm up, say its staying open, this would just take longer to heat up, but it will get hot. The function of the t-stat is to stay closed until the motor reaches 190*, then the t-stat pops open, allowing it to cool the motor.
|
Actually that's not how it works. The t-stat opens and closes (
fully or partially) regularly while the engine is running. It does NOT just stay open. The cooling rate in the radiator varies based on airspeed, air temperature, density, humidity, etc. The t-stat does whatever it has to do to maintain ~190 and that involves a lot more than just opening and staying open. It varies it's state to accomplish it's task.
With the t-stat stuck open, the engine will not just warm up slower. It will not warm up at all. Even on a hot summer day, it will never reach operating temperature. The T-stat has to regulate flow through the radiator to regulate the temperature.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pooleo
As far as the gauge goes, it could be a faulty gauge that is not sending the correct temp. This is very common and I personally have seen it numerous times. You say you get heat until you turn on the blower, well, if you have good heat then it is obvious that your temp is at least around 160 but the gauge is reading about 70. I would not trust the gauge.
|
Its actually very common to have some heat until you turn on a fan or start driving. Once you do that, you're removing what little heat that simple
convection and conduction has allowed to be there. The gauge is indicating exactly what he is describing and nothing is indicating otherwise. It's a stuck stat or bad pump. The engine isn't warming up. I'd put money on that gauge working just fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pooleo
How about your alt. is it charging at full? maybe the tensioner is going bad and the belt is not grabbing the water pump causing it to slip and turn properly...? maybe your belt is just bad causing this.
|
Pretty unlikely I think. The belt slipping like that would be VERY obvious and at this point it would probably have shredded.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pooleo
I think this is cold-weather related as you said it only does this in 20- temps. If it did this at all air temps then I would say something mechanical.
|
Its not the weather. With a working t-stat and water pump, our trucks can maintain operating temperature just fine in the extreme negatives. 20's and 30's is not even cold! I guarantee you it does the same thing in all temperatures. Nobody ever notices in warm weather because we don't use the heat. That's why everyone finds these pump and stat problems in the winter.