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Old 04-11-2013, 10:26 PM
Blakplague Blakplague is offline
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Default 3.0l Ranger Horsepower Guide v2.0

First things first, this is not a 3.0l bash thread, or a horsepower debate war. This is a serious thread where people can ask questions or suggest ideas instead of spamming the forums.
3.slows have their issues, they are an underpowered engine for a truck, however this being said, some people could use a little extra horspower or regain some for different things other than speed. (I.E. Towing, Offroading, etc.)
So after testing out some new stuff, I decided to add on to my previous list and update things that needed correcting. I hope everyone can find this useful.

*I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY HARM YOU MAY CAUSE TO YOUR ENGINE*

Also note these actions were performed on a 2001 Ranger 3.0l Flex XLT Automatic.

You will need the following tools:

-Large Adjustable Wrench (Monkey Wrench)
- 8mm and 10mm socket set with extender.
-12mm Deep Socket for Spark Plugs
- T-20 Torx Security bit for removing MAF from the mount.
- Flat Head and Philips Head Screw Drivers
-Metal Wire Brush
-Carbon Cleaner

1. Cleaning and Maintence:


Seafoam- Put in the gas tank, through the Vacuum Lines, and run for about 60miles in the crankcase before a oil change (Good chance to switch to Full Synthetic). Do this for high-mileage trucks to clean the engine internally and restore lost horsepower. You can also replace your spark plugs after doing this. **ADDING TOO MUCH TO YOUR VACUUM LINE CAN FLOOD YOUR CYLINDERS RESULTING IN WET PLUGS**
Location:
Where can I buy it? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...CGRP2030C_____

Brief How To -


* Clean your Mass Airflow Sensor - http://www.fordrangerforum.com/engin...ow-sensor.html

Alternative Write-Up -- http://www.therangerstation.com/tech.../CleanMAF.html

What is a MAF Sensor?


-- Clean your Idle Air Control - http://www.fordrangerforum.com/engin...r-control.html
What is a Idle Air Control? http://www.2carpros.com/articles/how...ol-valve-works


-- Clean your throttle body and intake valve with carb cleaner.
How to clean your Throttle Body / Intake Valve. http://www.fordrangerforum.com/how-s...ttle-body.html


-- Clean out the opening to the EGR Valve behind the throttle body. Usually there is a large build up of carbon and it will need to be cleaned by hand and a wire brush with carb. cleaner. Removing the EGR Valve to get the whole opening is recommended.


-- Replace the EGR Valve itself. On high mileage trucks the valve can be stuck open due to large amounts of carbon and results in poor idle and hesitation from a stop. The EGR Valve either has a silver or black top and is located directly behind the throttle body on the side of intake manifold. It has a single vacuum line coming out of a nipple on top. You will need a rather large monkey wrench to remove the bottom connection. Be extremely careful not to shear the metal tube or you will have to hunt down a new one. Make sure the new Valve comes with a new gasket. You can use brake grease from a tub to seal it or high temp RTV.
Location:
Removing the throttle body and the mount plate -
What is a EGR Valve?

Where can I buy one? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPEMISAMS_____



-- Replace the PCV Valve. You can pull it out and check it. If it rattles it is good, if it makes no noise you need to replace it. This helps your vacuum line circulation and is good in conjunction with a new EGR Valve. It is located here --

What is a PCV Valve?
Where can I buy one? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPFILTAMS_____
I suggest using the brake grease if you have some to lube up the new Valve in order to snap in the new elbow, otherwise it is a PITA to fit. Also put some on the outside of the elbow to snap into the hose. Just plug straight back into the engine when you are finished.





Replace your Fuel Filter - http://www.fordrangerforum.com/how-s...11-ranger.html

-- Throttle Cable Mod- This tightens the slack in the throttle cable allowing your throttle body to open up fully. Especially useful in older Rangers or those with high mileage suffering from poor acceleration and difficulty down shifting.
How To- http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...lecablemod.htm

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptzlioeeuTA

-- USE FULL SYNTHETIC OIL. If you plan on keeping the pedal to the floor on a regular basis or have intensive truck applications I would consider switching to synthetic oil and a good filter. Oil is what keeps the bottom end of your engine cool. Synthetic has many advantages over conventional oil since it has much a more stable viscosity at high temperatures / heavy loads, it reduces internal operating temps, and it has higher lubricity. Your engine will last longer, and perform better the cooler and easier it is able to run. Also synthetic oils are MUCH less likely to form sludge compared to conventional. "The Engine is the heart of the truck, the oil is the Blood. "- gcextreme

Please note if you have oil leak issues after switching to synthetic it is more than likely another underlying problem that the synthetic has uncovered. Synthetic tends to clean the engine better and as I stated, does not cause sludge build up as easily as conventional oil. What you have is the sludge from the old conventional oil being cleaned out and allowing the new oil to escape. You should always be aware of how you treat your engines and keep an eye out for leaks that occur after changing fluid types. Don't blame the new oil, blame your old oil.



------
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Red 2001 Ford Ranger 3.0L XLT, Mods: Throttle Cable Mod, Composite Manifold Conversion, 67mm Throttle Body, Exhaust Dumped behind Cats, EGR Delete, MAF Mount, Electric Fan Swap, Super Chips Tuner, Transmission Cooler, Overhead console, V-Line V713 Sledge 16" Rims w/ PIRELLI Scorpion ATR's, Chrome Surestep Bumper, DUAL 550BT Receiver w/ Bluetooth, 12" Pioneer & 10" Sony Xplod Stacked Truck Boxes with 1200watt BOSS Amp, Optima Yellow Top, Painted Radio Bezel, OHC, and Door Handles.

Last edited by Blakplague; 04-11-2013 at 11:07 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-11-2013, 10:27 PM
Blakplague Blakplague is offline
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Default Re: 3.0l Ranger Horsepower Guide v2.0

1. Electric Fan and Temperature Relay - Get that massive clutch fan off of that engine and you will notice quite a restoration of power. The relay should connect to your IAC valve wire and A/C wire in order to turn on when the key is turned and when the A/C is running. - http://www.fordrangerforum.com/engin...n-install.html (You can also pull good fans from Mercedes Cars.)
--
Fan / Sensor:


--
Relays:


--
IAC:


--
A/C:


--

2. Airbox Mod - http://www.fordrangerforum.com/engin...ir-intake.html

My Cheap Air Intake. (Only use if you want to go the CAI Route instead of the airbox) -- Used in combination with a 4.0l Explorer's Intake Tube and a 5.0's larger diameter MAF mount, your engine can get more air. I traded large junkyard Spectre filter off a Ranger for a $150 RE Works filter so I was extremely lucky. Honestly you will be just as well off with a $25 Spectre filter as you would a $60 K&N (You only need a Adapter to mount the Filter. No $250 intake kit.) ** Make sure to use a blade to cut a X for the Breather Tube from the crankcase and to secure the large tube away from the vehicle's belt. It likes to rub against the Alternator pulley sometimes. You also need to use a large, short bolt to seal the hole in the intake line. .**

--


--



For those guys that insist on using the stock box (I suggest finding the box from a 4.0 with a larger diameter outlet and inlet, otherwise the airflow will be lower than that of an open filter.)
--



--
Another CAI Setup Alternative- http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...r04/street.htm

3: Remove your muffler - I know some of you might not want to do this, but for those who want a deep sounding Ranger with straight pipes, this is the route to go. You get a little boost as well and some lower end torque. It is usually as simple as removing two bolts and either moving your current exhaust to the side, or taking it out completely depending on your preferred setup. You should yield better results with upgraded intake and tune. **IN SOME STATES YOU CAN BE PULLED OVER FOR NOT HAVING A MUFFLER ATTACHED**

What I did:

I currently don't have a pipe, so I just have it dumping below the passenger seat (Loud inside the cab) and a muffler I use for inspections hanging to the side for show, but still "attached". I plan on adding straight pipes when I can find a larger bracket. I do not recommend removing anything further up the line. I recieved some better acceleration removing the Cat/Resonator, but it is ungodly loud. You can try your luck with high flow cats or headers, just not completely taking the cats out.

4: Purchase a Programmer! Get a tuner and program your truck to work in conjunction with your new mods and CAI. These are also useful to troubleshoot engine codes and run diagnostics!


Where can I get one?
FRF Classified is a great place to start, as I bought a used one in great shape for less than a new one.
Superchips Flashpaq: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sr...d/model/ranger
Superchips Cortex: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sr...d/model/ranger
Superchips VIVID LINQ: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sr...d/model/ranger
Superchips VIVID: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sr...d/model/ranger
JET Performance: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/je...d/model/ranger
EDGE EvoHT: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/eg...d/model/ranger

5: Ignition System Upgrade : A good way to get better acceleration is to increase the amount of spark your vehicle can produce. To do this you will need :
Iridium Plugs - Iridium conducts electricity easier than other spark plug metals and ultimately less wear and tear on the ignition system because of it.
An Upgraded Coil Pack: MSD or DAVIS Unified (Screamin Demon) are great choices and allow you to gap your plugs up to .065in with upgraded wires. The larger your spark plug gap, the more fuel is burned so you have a much more efficient combustion process. This results in better MPGs and acceleration. The Mustang guys seem to prefer MSD over SD.

MSD: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ms...view/make/ford
DU Screamin Demon: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-31738

Upgraded Ignition Wires:
Davis Unified 10mm: http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...ter-mm/10-00mm

6: Composite Manifold and Throttle Body Swap (For 2001 and Earlier Trucks) .
What you will need is an intake manifold off of a 2000+ Ford TaurusThe reason for this is because the Taurus, unlike the 2002+ Rangers have an EGR Valve. You will also need to grab the line adapter for the PCV valve on the back of the manifold (DO NOT FORGET THIS!!!), a throttle body (I suggest the 60mm Escape throttle body or 67mm Explorer) and new gaskets.
- The Escapes 60mm throttle body may be the easiest route since it has a top lip and works with the manifold without having to seal with RTV. Not sure about cruise control functionality.
-The 65mm off of an Explorer V8 works, but it needs to be sealed at the top where it meets the intake Manifold and your cruise control may not want to work. I also had to shave away the 4.0l intake tube to make it fit the 65mm.
- If you do not hook up your EGR system you will get a CEL and not be able to pass emission inspections. I accidentally sheared my original pipe and opted to plug off the manifold with a welded end, otherwise it is next to impossible to find a bolt for the manifold.



- A custom EGR pipe will have to be made or your old one will have to cut and extended to connect. I decided to plug off my manifold until I have time to make a new pipe.

The advantage of swapping intake manifolds is reduced weight, better airflow, and it supports larger throttle bodies. Please make sure to check all of your seals at the manifold for vacuum leaks after installing (Remove MAF Connector if you have problems. For me it was the cap on my IAC leaking.)


--

--

--

--
Tom Morana also sells ported manifolds along with throttle bodies if you wish to take the "Pro" route.

6: Engine Rebuild: *Not for the faint of heart* http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...3_0-build.html

7: Exhaust System: Building upon what I listed earlier. This includes headers and other performance exhaust parts. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...y/Exhaust.html
Summit Racing Headers: http://www.summitracing.com/search/y...t-type/headers



8: Differential Gearing: This does not give horsepower, but it will improve lower end acceleration, especially on those vehicles with larger than stock tires.

Here is a useful chart to help you decide what gear ratio would be best for your vehicle.





---------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Morana is a great, but expensive way to get performance upgrades for the 3.0l. Some of the things he offers include:
-Cylinder Head Porting and Polishing
-Upgraded Valve Springs
-Ported Intake Manifolds and Performance Throttle Bodies
-Roller Rockers
-Ported Lower Intake Manifolds
-Intake Spacer
-Stroker Kits
http://www.moranav6racing.com/catego...?CategoryID=36


Also be sure to check out the Ranger Station Tech Library for more mods!
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.php

Feel free to add suggestions or ask questions. If you feel I missed anything please let me know.
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Red 2001 Ford Ranger 3.0L XLT, Mods: Throttle Cable Mod, Composite Manifold Conversion, 67mm Throttle Body, Exhaust Dumped behind Cats, EGR Delete, MAF Mount, Electric Fan Swap, Super Chips Tuner, Transmission Cooler, Overhead console, V-Line V713 Sledge 16" Rims w/ PIRELLI Scorpion ATR's, Chrome Surestep Bumper, DUAL 550BT Receiver w/ Bluetooth, 12" Pioneer & 10" Sony Xplod Stacked Truck Boxes with 1200watt BOSS Amp, Optima Yellow Top, Painted Radio Bezel, OHC, and Door Handles.

Last edited by Blakplague; 04-12-2013 at 06:00 AM.
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  #3  
Old 04-11-2013, 11:47 PM
Blakplague Blakplague is offline
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Default Re: 3.0l Ranger Horsepower Guide v2.0

---Reserved for Any Future Additions---
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Red 2001 Ford Ranger 3.0L XLT, Mods: Throttle Cable Mod, Composite Manifold Conversion, 67mm Throttle Body, Exhaust Dumped behind Cats, EGR Delete, MAF Mount, Electric Fan Swap, Super Chips Tuner, Transmission Cooler, Overhead console, V-Line V713 Sledge 16" Rims w/ PIRELLI Scorpion ATR's, Chrome Surestep Bumper, DUAL 550BT Receiver w/ Bluetooth, 12" Pioneer & 10" Sony Xplod Stacked Truck Boxes with 1200watt BOSS Amp, Optima Yellow Top, Painted Radio Bezel, OHC, and Door Handles.
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  #4  
Old 04-15-2013, 07:01 AM
gcextreme gcextreme is offline
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Default Re: 3.0l Ranger Horsepower Guide v2.0

Add into the programmer-tuner section the SCT X3 Tuner with custom tunes from Don @LaSota Racing.com.


Also add a link to the Throttle Cable mod...
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:30 PM
JFortner5 JFortner5 is offline
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Default Re: 3.0l Ranger Horsepower Guide v2.0

Needs to be a sticky.

Good post. I'm interested in learning more about this manifold swap. Sounds like a trip to pull-a-part is in order.
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Old 04-16-2013, 03:17 PM
zuixro zuixro is offline
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Default Re: 3.0l Ranger Horsepower Guide v2.0

Quote:
Originally Posted by JFortner5 View Post
Needs to be a sticky.

Good post. I'm interested in learning more about this manifold swap. Sounds like a trip to pull-a-part is in order.
+1 on the sticky. There was a thread like this a while back, I don't know what happened to it.

I'm interested in the higher powered coil and plug regapping. It looks like it would be a little over $200 for plugs wires and coil, but it would be worth it for the extra power and MPGs. Can anyone attest to the performance increase?

I'd also like to do the electric fan upgrade. I hear you gain about 2 MPG from that.
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:13 PM
JFortner5 JFortner5 is offline
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Default Re: 3.0l Ranger Horsepower Guide v2.0

Quote:
Originally Posted by zuixro View Post

I'd also like to do the electric fan upgrade. I hear you gain about 2 MPG from that.
I'm not sure on the coil, I'll wait until mine craps out before I upgrade it.

As for the e-fan, I did it on a 2002 F150 I had. (4.2L 5 speed) I couldn't tell much difference in power, but I think I gained an mpg or two. The part I liked the best was the difference in noise. The engine seemed so quiet without that big fan constantly turning. With that said, the difference may be more noticeable on the 3.0L. That 4.2L was pretty torquey so it turned it pretty good. I think it would make more difference in our situation. I returned it to stock before I sold it, but like an idiot I left the fan behind when I moved. I did save my relay and harness I made for it. I have a whole list of things I want to get from the junkyard next time I go.
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  #8  
Old 04-17-2013, 05:44 PM
HDMM HDMM is offline
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Default Re: 3.0l Ranger Horsepower Guide v2.0

The E fan is a good mod, I've done that on my 5.0 Mustangs, it's worth doing.....

I think my best cure for my 3.slow is gonna be a 5.0 swap honestly.
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  #9  
Old 04-18-2013, 08:52 AM
kwiknotch kwiknotch is offline
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Default Re: 3.0l Ranger Horsepower Guide v2.0

Quote:
Originally Posted by HDMM View Post
The E fan is a good mod, I've done that on my 5.0 Mustangs, it's worth doing.....

I think my best cure for my 3.slow is gonna be a 5.0 swap honestly.
If your thinking about going that way. I would go with a coyote motor. You will get good gas mileage and power
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Old 05-02-2013, 05:32 PM
day004 day004 is offline
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Default Re: 3.0l Ranger Horsepower Guide v2.0

Any Dyno readings while doing these mods?
Curious what the change is .
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:47 PM
Blakplague Blakplague is offline
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Default Re: 3.0l Ranger Horsepower Guide v2.0

Quote:
Originally Posted by kwiknotch View Post
If your thinking about going that way. I would go with a coyote motor. You will get good gas mileage and power
I think the Coyote would be too wide for a Ranger? (Don't quote me on this) And sorry for the lack of response, I have been busy with Finals. The Coil should give a good boost on higher end acceleration. And thanks for pointing out the throttle cable mod, I don't see how I missed that!
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:50 PM
Bullittranger94 Bullittranger94 is offline
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Default Re: 3.0l Ranger Horsepower Guide v2.0

There actually was a company in Florida that managed to fit the coyote in a ranger an made it look stock. But it is alot of work.
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:36 AM
BigAlxlt BigAlxlt is offline
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Default Re: 3.0l Ranger Horsepower Guide v2.0

WARNING!!!!!! If you do any Off-Roading DO NOT do the air box mod, I did it and when i drove threw 7 Inches of water at 10MPH i Hydrolocked my engine!!!! it allows water to splash into the air box then intake very easy!!!!!!! It works great if all you do is on road stuff, but if you drive where its "wet" don't do it or Re-insert the snorkel on your air box when you plan to go wheelin.
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:46 AM
gcextreme gcextreme is offline
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Default Re: 3.0l Ranger Horsepower Guide v2.0

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigAlxlt View Post
WARNING!!!!!! If you do any Off-Roading DO NOT do the air box mod, I did it and when i drove threw 7 Inches of water at 10MPH i Hydrolocked my engine!!!! it allows water to splash into the air box then intake very easy!!!!!!! It works great if all you do is on road stuff, but if you drive where its "wet" don't do it or Re-insert the snorkel on your air box when you plan to go wheelin.
Good info..but u can still hydrolock your engine with the stock airbox setup.
The key is to either have an actual snorkel setup if your going thru water.
Water is bad..

I go mudding...not waterholing..

There is a difference between water and mud...

And if u drove thru 7inches of water at 10mph...thats hard to believe the water would splash up above the bumper at that speed! Not saying its not possible, but still odd.
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Old 05-09-2013, 09:35 AM
GLH GLH is offline
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Default Re: 3.0l Ranger Horsepower Guide v2.0

With the first intake pic, the air filter is open to the heat of the engine. With the stock airbox, it only intakes cooler air from in front.
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