I have just purchased a 2007 Ranger 3.0L 4x2 with 45k miles on it.

When I was taking it for a test drive, the check engine light came on. The ford drealership replaced the coil pack and the truck has been running fine for a little while.

Now, when the truck has sat over night and you go to start it in the morning and its cold, the truck cranks over, catches, sorta stumbles around 500-600rpm for a second and then rev's up to high idle at 1500rpm and slowly comes down as it warms up nicely. I've tried cranking it an extra split second after I hear the engine catch, but it doesnt make a difference. My concern is that I have never had a vehicle start, run rough for 1 second, then rev up. It doesn't sound right. What is the issue with this? Its like it catches, chugs, then goes to high idle. Has anyone else experienced this? Any fixes?


Also, something else I have noticed. After I have driven it for a 10-15min and its warmed up good, when you come to a light and your sitting in drive with the brakes on and its idling, I can sorta feel the engine surge / bump / feels unevin a bit / lumpy. Any ideas? could the 2 issues be related?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Bigblock

This morning I figure I would start it and see right after I start it, if I were to shut it off and start it again if it would still stumble. So I started it, it ofcourse catches, chugs at 500rpm for a split second and I kill it. Then I wait a few seconds, and start it and it starts up perfectly fine. Doesnt chung at 500rpm, goes to 1000rpm and climbs to 1500rpm as it's -1C outside this morning. So its has to do with it sitting over time because clearly its still cold if I shut it off right away and start it again and it being perfectly fine. Any ideas??

I've gone to the dealer and ordered a new fuel filter and pcv. Hopefully that fixes this. I'll keep everyone updated.

see i have started having this problem in the cold never had this problem in the summer when i bought the truck now its like it will start try to die then fire up without a problem and do its normal thing like you said idles at 1500rpsm then goes to normal under 1000rpms

__________________
Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity."
General Geroge S Patton
2007 3.0
automatic trans, 4.10s with L/S
ported and polished TB
4brand new speakers with inslation in doors
smoked tail lights
20%tint on driver and passenger windows
5% tint on back window

Did you ever get it resolved? What was the issue?

Hey,

Try cleaning your IAC valve. Use throttle body cleaner or MAF cleaner. If you do this don't forget to clean the inlet tube to the IAC valve. It should start just before the TB and end at the IAC valve.

__________________
(SOLD) 2003 Ranger 4.0L V6 FX4
2001 F150 Supercrew Triton V8 (DD)
2008 Fusion 3.0L SEL V6 (my baby)
1992 Taurus SHO MTX (my toy-almost Supercharged)
2004 Nissan Murano SL AWD (Wife's car)

Don't have an answer, but I am experiencing the same issues. I have been thinking about it and it may have something to do with your oil. I noticed that about the same time I started having the trouble you are describing that my oil pressure gauge wouldn't register any pressure for the first couple seconds and sometimes couple minutes. Thoughts?

__________________
2000 Red Ranger XLT V6 3.0 Liter 4X4 Manual Transmission

maybe cam syncro????? ihave cleaned the MAF and IAC and TB i have checked my TPS and its within spec and the warmer it gets the easier it starts. (dang new techonlogy!!!) this would be so much easier on an older truck ugh id like to fgure this out before i leave for 6months so when i come home my truck wont be dead. what else you think it could b?????

__________________
Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity."
General Geroge S Patton
2007 3.0
automatic trans, 4.10s with L/S
ported and polished TB
4brand new speakers with inslation in doors
smoked tail lights
20%tint on driver and passenger windows
5% tint on back window

Just throwin it out there. FPR, fuel pump or fuel filter.

__________________
(SOLD) 2003 Ranger 4.0L V6 FX4
2001 F150 Supercrew Triton V8 (DD)
2008 Fusion 3.0L SEL V6 (my baby)
1992 Taurus SHO MTX (my toy-almost Supercharged)
2004 Nissan Murano SL AWD (Wife's car)

hey,I was pokin around on the net and found this....might help

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=229264

__________________
(SOLD) 2003 Ranger 4.0L V6 FX4
2001 F150 Supercrew Triton V8 (DD)
2008 Fusion 3.0L SEL V6 (my baby)
1992 Taurus SHO MTX (my toy-almost Supercharged)
2004 Nissan Murano SL AWD (Wife's car)

I have a car which had similar symptoms, it got progressively worse until it would not start when below freezing. I cleaned & replaced many parts until 3 years later I got to the coil pack, $40 off ebay and now it fires up at 30 below. I suggest you ask your dealer for a replacement coil pack.

Sorry-post was messed. had to repost below

How can you test the coil to be sure its faulty? What would the ohms be from pole to pole?

The dealer replaced my coilpack 2 weeks ago so there is a brand new motorcraft coilpack on there.

I'll replace the fuel filter and clean the MAF with electronic cleaner. If I pull off the IAC and spray it down, is there a gasket used to seal the IAC on the throttle body?

This is such a crazy problem to track down. Dealer wants 100 bucks to take a crack at it.

I also have a new PCV to put on, mine is heated. But I am sure the old one is still good. I only have 64K on it. Anyone know how many KM they are rated for?

I'll keep you all posted once I'm done.

dont worry about the gasket its set in the intake it wont go anywhere

__________________
Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity."
General Geroge S Patton
2007 3.0
automatic trans, 4.10s with L/S
ported and polished TB
4brand new speakers with inslation in doors
smoked tail lights
20%tint on driver and passenger windows
5% tint on back window

So I changed the fuel filter, cleaned out the IAC, Cleaned out the MAF and it seemed to have started fine this morning - although today it was above freezing in the early morning when I went to start it. I'll have to try it again tomorrow and see how it performs. I even disconnected the battery for 1hr to let the computer re-learn everything after I cleaned everything up.

It still surges when idling in gear though. That problem still exisits.

Could the new coil be bad? What else could it be?

My bad coil pack read 24k ohms coil to coil. The new one read 8k ohms, which is what spec was. Not sure what a Ranger one should read.