Special tool to take off my fan?

Abillmyre · #1 10-09-2012, 12:56 PM

Okay, I am not savvy on how to fix my truck and I have been learning. FYI

So back story to why I need to know.
Recently I have noticed my temperature gauge staying higher than normal, I have asked around and everyone said it was normal. Well two weeks go by and im driving home and my temp gauge jumps up and almost gets into the red, so i pulled over. All of a sudden smoke poured from the hood and i checked the coolant. it was muddy, and very low. Just bubbled at the bottom. Turns out the water pump is ciezed? (sorry for my spelling)
Anyways, I got the parts I needed, but I still need a special tool to take off the fan. Any idea what this tool is and any ideas on how i could go around it?

Stinkbaitj · #2 10-09-2012, 01:45 PM

With the sepentine belt on:

Take a wrech and put it on the fanclutch nut thingy that attaches it to the water pump. I think its 22mm

Now the threads are reversed on the fan clutch, turning the nut left tightens and turning right loosens it.

Anywho, take a hammer and knock the shit out of the wrench on the side. This will break the nut thing free and you can do rest pretty easy.

Using the special to is a pain.

--1993 ford ranger ext cab 3.0 v6--

RoberticusMaximus · #3 10-09-2012, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stinkbaitj

With the sepentine belt on:

Take a wrech and put it on the fanclutch nut thingy that attaches it to the water pump. I think its 22mm

Now the threads are reversed on the fan clutch, turning the nut left tightens and turning right loosens it.

Anywho, take a hammer and knock the shit out of the wrench on the side. This will break the nut thing free and you can do rest pretty easy.

Using the special to is a pain.

--1993 ford ranger ext cab 3.0 v6--

this sounds like a knuckle buster lol!

my fan & fan clutch are really easy compare to yours's models...

Stinkbaitj · #4 10-09-2012, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robertmcclure

this sounds like a knuckle buster lol!

my fan & fan clutch are really easy compare to yours's models...

Not really. Lol. Its really easy when you have done it a couple times.

--1993 ford ranger ext cab 3.0 v6--

Psychopete · #5 10-09-2012, 01:57 PM

one part of the tool is like a huge open end wrench that keeps the water pump bolts in place so they can't move. The other is a wrench for the fan. Try the described method above, but you may need to rent one if you can't get it off. I didn't have too many problems getting a fan of a '88 Ranger using one. I definitely would make sure that thing does not have a blown head gasket before going through changing the water pump.

Richard_Crainium · #6 10-09-2012, 02:16 PM

ah I think i would use a breaker bar before beating the shit out of my fucking wrench.

Stinkbaitj · #7 10-09-2012, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard_Crainium

ah I think i would use a breaker bar before beating the shit out of my fucking wrench.

Can't. You try to turn the nut with the wrench the whole pulley will turn due to pulley being smooth.

I have done this 3 times with no problems and only a scratch on my wrench.

Have you done this? If so then please, share a better method than taking the pump and fan clutch off and putting the pulley on a table vise grip and using all your strenth to get it off.

It only takes one whack to break it loose.

--1993 ford ranger ext cab 3.0 v6--

Abillmyre · #8 10-09-2012, 02:50 PM

thanks so much. I will take a look at my head gaskets. (would it hurt anything if i just replaced my water pump?) and i dont mind some dings on my wrench, as long as it can still do the job, and my wrench has gone through hell from being in the hands of a beginner

Stinkbaitj · #9 10-09-2012, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abillmyre

thanks so much. I will take a look at my head gaskets. (would it hurt anything if i just replaced my water pump?) and i dont mind some dings on my wrench, as long as it can still do the job, and my wrench has gone through hell from being in the hands of a beginner

Nah it won't hurt anything at all changin it. The main thing is that you pulled over and turn the truck off imediatley after it jumped up in temp.

When taking the water pump bolts out, go slow. if you have problems tighten the bolt down and loosen it again to work it out.

Also,

When changing the pump, take some rtv sealant and put it on the new pump and take the new pump gasket and place it on the pump the put some more rtv sealant on the gasket. Clean off the block where the pump goes and bolt the new pump on. Let it cure for about 20-25 minutes before runing water throught. Also go ahead and change the thermostat as well.

Then with the radiator drain plug still unscrewed, take a hose and let water run through the radiator and crank the engine.

Turn the heater on full blast and let it idle with the water running through the engine.

This will allow all the gunk from the engine and heater core to come out and clean the inside some. While its idling, look out for smoke from the tail pipe and water leaking from the block and water pump.

If not leaks, let it idle for 10-15 mins then turn off, let the water drain completley then plug the radiator back up and fill with 50/50.

--1993 ford ranger ext cab 3.0 v6--

Abillmyre · #10 10-09-2012, 03:55 PM

Okay, just so i get everything. what does Cure mean? "let cure" And the block is the engine?
And just a question. how does dirt get in the coolant area?

94mtx · #11 10-09-2012, 04:01 PM

Cure = let it sit torqued down for a while before adding coolant and cranking it up...

Make sure you put RTV on both sides of the gasket you are installing between your water pump and block (yes, the block is the lower part of the engine; the area in question is around the hole that became exposed when you removed the old water pump.)

Make sure you have RTV on every area of the paper-type gasket (meaning a thin line on every area it can be, like around screw holes, anywhere there is paper gasket, you know?)

You should be using the red high-temp RTV made for water pumps.

Are you sure it is dirt and not oil?

Stinkbaitj · #12 10-09-2012, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abillmyre

Okay, just so i get everything. what does Cure mean? "let cure" And the block is the engine?
And just a question. how does dirt get in the coolant area?

Cure means let it dry

The block is the engine block

That dirt, not sure. Could be oil or could be from the hoses.

--1993 ford ranger ext cab 3.0 v6--

----------

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94mtx

Cure = let it sit torqued down for a while before adding coolant and cranking it up...

Make sure you put RTV on both sides of the gasket you are installing between your water pump and block (yes, the block is the lower part of the engine; the area in question is around the hole that became exposed when you removed the old water pump.)

Make sure you have RTV on every area of the paper-type gasket (meaning a thin line on every area it can be, like around screw holes, anywhere there is paper gasket, you know?)

You should be using the red high-temp RTV made for water pumps.

Are you sure it is dirt and not oil?

Thank you

--1993 ford ranger ext cab 3.0 v6--

Abillmyre · #13 10-09-2012, 04:04 PM

It could be oil, my truck goes through oil way too fast. Ill put a quart in and a week later it needs more. I hope its not that. and my boyfriend says its dirt... My dad says it could be rust..... I hope its just dirt. Thanks guys!

Stinkbaitj · #14 10-09-2012, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abillmyre

It could be oil, my truck goes through oil way too fast. Ill put a quart in and a week later it needs more. I hope its not that. and my boyfriend says its dirt... My dad says it could be rust..... I hope its just dirt. Thanks guys!

Doubt its dirt.

Rust maybe.

Oil seems like a possibilty.

Any known oil leaks around the bottom of the engine?

--1993 ford ranger ext cab 3.0 v6--

Jexxvexx · #15 10-09-2012, 04:09 PM

the crap that gets in the coolant is rust and crap off the inside of the block and also where the coolant breaks down.