My 3.0 flex fuel turn over but won't start. I was driving to work and I blew a coolant hose before it just quit. The temp gauge got up to about 3/4. Actually, I blew the plastic coupler I had used to bypass the heater core. I had lost heat and the engine seemed to by running hot occasionally, so I gave it a shot. I'm about 100% positive the guy I bought it from dumped some of that Bars Leak into the radiator to cover up a pin hole I found in the rad, so he could try and sell to someone else. I replaced the rad right away and got a flush performed at the shop. I've replaced several other coolant system parts since then.

I have fuel at the rail, noid light checks out good, got spark. I cleaned the MAF sensor but the problem persists.

Dry compression check results are as follows:
1 - 50psi
2 - 40
3 - 120
4 - 70
5 - 105
6 - 52

Wet compression check:
1 - 70
2 - 60
3 - 120
4 - 150
5 - 140
6 - 55


I'm not an engine guy. I'd be comfortable swapping the engine, but they're running $1200 - $1500. It looks like it's going to be my first rebuild.

What am I looking at here? I want to say, at the very least, piston rings, though I'm not sure. The pressure seems to build to it's max with about 3 three stokes, on average.

Then again, maybe I'm way out to lunch.

Assistance/ advice please!

Thanks in advance.

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2000 Mazda B3000
2WD Flex Fuel
Regular Cab
Manufactured: Apr 2000

at least a rering and valve job

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1997 Ford Ranger-short bed regular cab-3.0 engine-auto

Yeah you have some major problems there.

I would say its a combo of
1. headgasket (overheating)
2. rings (as shown by wet compression test)
3. valves/timing chain/cam (cylinders that didn't change much during wet compression).

All in all, i would say its gonna be cheaper to by a NEW crate motor and swap it in. If you want rebuild the old engine in your spare time or whatever and try to sell that later.

Good luck

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2011 Ranger XL Extended cab, 2x4, 2.3 L Duratec, Automatic, Mis-colored Leer camper shell, Ultragauge, LED plate bulbs, DDM "cree" reverse lights. Staying as stock as possible

A new crate motor? How much are we talking here? I tried to ball park a price at Autozone and we came in around $600. The timing chain is new (not that it was expensive) so I've already ruled that out.

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2000 Mazda B3000
2WD Flex Fuel
Regular Cab
Manufactured: Apr 2000

If you wanna do a quick and dirty job, pull the heads and the pistons, put some new rings in and put it back together. If you do that your self it may be cheaper than a new motor. Assuming that is your cylinder walls aren't scored.

If you don't get the work done for free, the crate motor is definitly gonna be cheaper. I have friend who is a mechanic and i was asking him how much he charges for a motor swap. he said about 2500 for just labor. Rebuild a motor is 4000 (new rings and bearings).

just sayin, that $600 at autozone is pretty good deal for a crate engine.

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2011 Ranger XL Extended cab, 2x4, 2.3 L Duratec, Automatic, Mis-colored Leer camper shell, Ultragauge, LED plate bulbs, DDM "cree" reverse lights. Staying as stock as possible

I guess I should have been clearer. $600 was for all the parts I could think of replacing on the spot at autozone. I would be performing the rebuild myself. Even a used engine seems to be going for about $1200.

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2000 Mazda B3000
2WD Flex Fuel
Regular Cab
Manufactured: Apr 2000

found a crate 3.0 for an 02 that was 1800$. not too bad considering its professionally built, trusted and im sure it has some kind of warranty.

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2002 3.0 Ford Ranger 4x2, Auto, 250k miles

your compression numbers seem weird, I think you should look more into that before you pull the engine out

the engine is going to need to come apart regardless, dig in and find out Good idea to get a second look over your block, crank, cam, and heads by a shop if you decide to rebuild it.

the OP needs an enigne right away but what I did and would suggest others do if they plan on keeping the truck is keep an eye on Craigslist for an engine or truck.......I bought a truck on Craigslist removed the 2.5 and sold off and scrapped the truck.......got the engine for about $100 and a Saturday................

OP I would suggest you looked for a used one.......cheaper and easier in the long run.........there are plenty of them around.......the 3.0 Vulcan was/is in other cars ie. Taurus..........also if you have the 5 speed you can throw in a new clutch setup while you are at it......

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

Dude, I love my 3.0L, but if your spending that kind of money, just swap it for a 4.0L, One from Jasper costs about $2,200.

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0 V6 4-Door Automatic
8.8 3.73 Limited Slip Rear Cobra Disc Brake Conversion
Rear Frame Repair Kit, Electric Fan Conversion
1'' Body lift, Cranked T-Bars, Roadmaster Suspension Kit, John Deere Yellow Shocks

A few reasons why he might not want to do the 4.0 swap
1) tranny
2) driveshaft
3) puter
4) motor mounts
5) fuel lines

1999, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 145k. (Sent from my DROID BIONIC using FRF App)

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

But if you do it you will get another 200,000 miles out of it as long as the frame is good

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0 V6 4-Door Automatic
8.8 3.73 Limited Slip Rear Cobra Disc Brake Conversion
Rear Frame Repair Kit, Electric Fan Conversion
1'' Body lift, Cranked T-Bars, Roadmaster Suspension Kit, John Deere Yellow Shocks