So as my signature says, I have an 06 XL 3.0L 4x4 with just over 71,000 miles on it. So on Thursday I went to go to class and I went to start my truck, turn the key over and I hear one click and then nothing and no start. So today I had the battery tested and its at 100% so I replaced two 40 amp fuses in the fuse box under the hood for starter solenoid and ignition switch. And still no start. So any ideas? I also replaced the starter about 2 years ago. Thanks for any suggestions

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2006 Ford Ranger XL 4x4 single cab with a 3.0, 3 inch PA body lift with gap guards, 1.5 inch torsion bar keys and a 0.5 inch crank, 33x12.50 inch BFG AT KO's, 15x10 inch Eagle Alloy Classic II's, dual in dual out single magnaflow muffler, rolled exhaust tips, new superlift shocks, clear corners, Linex bedliner, toolbox w/ whip antenna, K&N cold air intake, and lots more

Still could be the starter or the selenoid which is part of the starter. Take the starter off and have it tested at autozone or the like. I had one break after 30 days. Teeth shredded off the gear in the starter.

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Yeah the guy at autozone said that it could be the starter. I just don't want to take it off again cuz it's a pain to get out and put back in. I've also heard maybe the coil pack or camshaft synchro.

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2006 Ford Ranger XL 4x4 single cab with a 3.0, 3 inch PA body lift with gap guards, 1.5 inch torsion bar keys and a 0.5 inch crank, 33x12.50 inch BFG AT KO's, 15x10 inch Eagle Alloy Classic II's, dual in dual out single magnaflow muffler, rolled exhaust tips, new superlift shocks, clear corners, Linex bedliner, toolbox w/ whip antenna, K&N cold air intake, and lots more

One click and then nothing sounds like bad battery cables, check and cleal all ends real good.

The ends on the battery aren't corroded at all. I could check the ones on the end of the starter

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2006 Ford Ranger XL 4x4 single cab with a 3.0, 3 inch PA body lift with gap guards, 1.5 inch torsion bar keys and a 0.5 inch crank, 33x12.50 inch BFG AT KO's, 15x10 inch Eagle Alloy Classic II's, dual in dual out single magnaflow muffler, rolled exhaust tips, new superlift shocks, clear corners, Linex bedliner, toolbox w/ whip antenna, K&N cold air intake, and lots more

hey i had a truck do the same thing and it may not look like they are corroded but the termainals lose and undo the 2 bolts all the way off and open it up mine was rusted or corroded so their might be u some lead way

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95 3.0 5 speed..2007 ram 3500 dually 6 speed..2006 ram srt10 6 speed..mustang gt 5 speed

Yeah I checked them and they are fine. I kinda think its the starter solenoid but I'm just pissed that I have to take it off because those 3 bolts are in the worst possible spots. So I haven't got it off yet lol

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2006 Ford Ranger XL 4x4 single cab with a 3.0, 3 inch PA body lift with gap guards, 1.5 inch torsion bar keys and a 0.5 inch crank, 33x12.50 inch BFG AT KO's, 15x10 inch Eagle Alloy Classic II's, dual in dual out single magnaflow muffler, rolled exhaust tips, new superlift shocks, clear corners, Linex bedliner, toolbox w/ whip antenna, K&N cold air intake, and lots more

I agree. This is an electrical issue. Take the wire terminals off the battery posts and clean both surfaces that touch (terminals and posts). I had the same issue, the posts looked clean/the starter clicked/battery was 100%charged.

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2001 Ford Ranger with the flare sides. 4x4 with a 4.0 engine. The only thing I did so far is: F/R Brakes, rotors, drums, F/R shocks, tires, bed cap, cone filter, hanger/shackles, F/P wheel bearing, upper control arm, lower ball joint, filler neck, fuel filter and DPFE sensor, muffler, sway bar links and spark plugs!