3.0 tremendous loss of power

DANE · #1 01-23-2012, 03:17 PM

Hi ive been havin some issues
I have a 2000 ranger 3.0 flex fuel 268k
Been hearing rattling cant tell if its a rattle or a tick though
Sounds like its coming from convertor
Got check engine light scanned was o2 sensor
Replaced it
Didnt change nothing
Extreme loss of power (barley reach 35mph if that)
Popping noises
Missfires
It doesnt stall out
Very rough idling
Sounds like a diesel truck
I think it might be my convertor is there any way to check it?

JFortner5 · #2 01-23-2012, 04:11 PM

It sounds like the converter could be stopped up. I'm not sure how you could really check it though besides cutting it off.

tomboy · #3 01-23-2012, 04:15 PM

Can you unbolt it from the pipe going on back to the muffler, if you can tie that pipe up to keep it from dragging, then start the truck and drive it. If it still does the same thing, you have at least elminiated the muffler being stopped up.

DANE · #4 01-23-2012, 04:35 PM

yeah i think i can unbolt it right before the cat actually im gunna try that real quick an see what happins besides it being loud as shit haha

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thanks for the responses ill let you guys know what happins when im done trying that

JFortner5 · #5 01-23-2012, 08:37 PM

Yeah keep us posted I'm curious.

pooleo · #6 01-23-2012, 08:58 PM

sounds like the timing is off. Did you replace the cam sensor thingy that goes out on these guys? popping is generally a timing issue

gcextreme · #7 01-23-2012, 09:10 PM

What would such a popping noise be pooleo?
I have a 98 ranger that the previous owner said he thought it may be a bad cylinder or piston.
It has a rough idle,and a popping noise, seems like it's coming from the intake, you can hear it popping coming back from the air filter - intake area.

I wonder if maybe its the same problem Dane is having.

pooleo · #8 01-23-2012, 10:44 PM

yes, popping thru the intake is a timing issue.

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Im not familar with the 3.0's, but always hear about the cam sensor going bad, could be related

DANE · #9 01-24-2012, 09:35 PM

I unbolted convertor couldnt tell any difference was to loud
Tryd driving it but still felt the same.
Engine was still shaking though

pooleo · #10 01-24-2012, 09:36 PM

how bout the question? timing?

DANE · #11 01-24-2012, 09:50 PM

I had a CEL come on before i did this but said screw it because i figured it was from me changin my o2 sensor a few weeks ago but i got it scanned on way home and came back with

P0340
Camshaft position sensor

P1409
Failed egr vacuum reg.

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Do my symptons sound right? Because i figured a camsensor going out meant screaching and stalling mine doesnt stall and didnt screach

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Under the camshaft code it says probable cause - engine mechanical condition timing belt/ t - chain out of time

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Pooleo is right on haha im gunna try an fix it tommorow should i just replace the sensor on top or the whole camshaft synchronizer thing? An would it hurt to try a used one?

DANE · #12 01-25-2012, 04:21 PM

Havent swapped out the cam sensor yet but i went out to start it earliar and it wouldnt start for awhile then gave it some gas an it started then idled high as shit and shaking real bad

pooleo · #13 01-25-2012, 04:40 PM

I would go new, not worth it to try and go used. Im not sure on how the thing works, but if its a sensor then it probably detects cam position to determine spark. But, I dont know that engine well enough to say for sure. Usually, its the crank shaft position sensor that does this.

But, it is highley possible the timing chain tensioner has failed. This would cause the chain to gain slack, then when the crank turned, it would turn the cam shaft until the chain is tight, effectively throwing the cam out of time with the crank. Valves would not be in time with the piston, then would pop. It also may have jumpped time, as in the chain skipped a tooth. This is not likely, but very possible.

I think I would try to determine if the tensioner is the problem. Remove #1 plug place thumb over hole and bump it. When it blows compression out, this is TDC. Look at your crank and the little tab to verify the markings. Generally 10* before top dead center (BTDC)

After verifing this, remove valve cover and look at the valve/spring/pushrod. Are the valve(s) open on #1?

To determine (if its to close to see with the naked eye) Remove the rocker. If the spring relaxes as you take it off (a little would be normal) than the cam is out of time with the piston.

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If it does not blow compression out (out of time) then turn the crank by hand to the mark. It should be marked on the harmonic balancer. Then continue with valve cover removal

DANE · #14 01-25-2012, 04:43 PM

yeah im gunna replace the sensor tomorow i just dont know if i should get the whole cam sensor and synchronizer i mean mind as well i guess

brcknrdg · #15 01-25-2012, 04:50 PM

not sure if it is the same issue, mine seemed to run fine in engine compartment, loud popping through exhaust, changed plugs, changed wires, changed o2 sensors, next step was going to be catalytic.... took it to muffler shop he found that it was misfiring in the number 2 cylinder and did not throw any codes. Installed new coil pack and straitened everything right out. my symptoms started out of the blue- ran good then fired it up felt and sounded really sputtery when trying to accelerate. unfortunately i do not have the ear for a misfire the coil was $150.00 for motorcraft and the guy was nice enough to put it in deducting my diagnose charges for it. still saved me few $ from just plopping in a new cat.