Hello all! first time user and Ranger owner. I have a stock 1990 3.0 v6 with a serious acceleration pinging problem. The timing at warm idle reads 23 deg BTC. I know this can,t be right! I have read somewhere it should be 10-12 deg BTC. Problem is, I have also read that since the computer is running the show, I can't just loosen the dist hold down and retard the timing due to the computer re compensating for the change. 1) What is the actual timing supposed to be? 2) what is the procedure for changing the timing? (chilton book does not specify) Thanks for any help you all can offer!

Checking your year online it only lists the 2.9 and the 4.0. Are you sure it's a 3.0?

__________________
'88 STX Super Cab 4x4
2.9 5spd 180,000 miles
Crappy Paint, Worn Parts,
Fix'em as they Break
when Nowhere is Now Here

Sorry, 1993 3.0 v6 4x4 Just bought it....DUH

According to the manual I've pulled up, your 3.0 is coil packs, you got no distributor to adjust. Quote " Except 1991–94 2.9L and 3.0L Engines
These engines utilize a Distributorless Ignition System (DIS). On this system, ignition coil packs fire the spark plugs directly through the spark plug wires. All spark timing and advance is determined by the ignition control module and engine control computer. No ignition timing adjustments are necessary or possible."

__________________
'88 STX Super Cab 4x4
2.9 5spd 180,000 miles
Crappy Paint, Worn Parts,
Fix'em as they Break
when Nowhere is Now Here

Heres where your timing info should be.......
NOTE: Specific instructions and specifications for setting initial timing can be found in the Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) label in the engine compartment. Because this label contains information regarding any specific calibration requirements for YOUR vehicle, those instructions and specifications should be followed if they differ from the following. The underhood VECI label is specific to YOUR truck and should be used if it differs from another source.

__________________
'88 STX Super Cab 4x4
2.9 5spd 180,000 miles
Crappy Paint, Worn Parts,
Fix'em as they Break
when Nowhere is Now Here

Cool deal, just read the totally obvious sticker that i apparently missed during the cap, rotor and plugs i changed a few days ago. I'm pretty sure it has a distributor. The manuals i have dont indicate the procedure for adjusting the timing. And....is it possible that i can just adjust at the distributor without the computer re compensating for the change. Maybe i was reading something for the procedure on the distributorless type? Thanks for the assist!

This is the info I found, remember this thing says you don't have a distributor. (one reason why I don't like the early 90s rangers, they changed stuff all the time) I know it's a big post but its straight from the manual...I have no idea what an "octane rod" is........
NOTE: Do not change the ignition timing by the use of a different octane rod without having the proper authority to do so. Federal emission requirements will be affected.


Start the engine and allow it to run until it reaches normal operating temperature.
CAUTION
NEVER run an engine in a garage or building without proper ventilation. Carbon monoxide will quickly enter the body, excluding oxygen from the blood stream. This condition will cause dizziness, sleepiness and eventually death.


Once normal operating temperature has been reached, shut the engine OFF.
Firmly apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels. Place the transmission in P (A/T) or NEUTRAL (M/T, as applicable).
Make sure heater and A/C, along with all other accessories are in the OFF position.
Connect an inductive timing light, such as the Rotunda 059-00006 or equivalent, to the No. 1 spark plug wire, according the tool manufacturer's instructions.
Connect a tachometer to the ignition coil connection using an alligator clip. This can be done by inserting the alligator clip into the back of the connector, onto the dark green/yellow dotted wire.
NOTE: DO NOT allow the alligator clip to accidentally ground to a metal surface while attached to the coil connector as that could permanently damage the ignition coil.


Disconnect the single wire in-line SPOUT connector which connects the control computer (usually terminal 36) to the ignition control module. This will prevent the electronic ignition from advancing the timing during the set procedure.
Using a suitable socket or wrench, loosen the distributor hold-down bolt slightly at this time, BUT DO NOT ALLOW THE DISTRIBUTOR TO MOVE or timing will have to be set regardless of the current conditions.
NOTE: A remote starter must NOT be used to start the vehicle when setting the initial ignition timing. Disconnecting the start wire at the starter relay will cause the ignition control module to revert to Start Mode timing after the vehicle is started. Reconnecting the start wire after the vehicle is running WILL NOT correct the timing.


Start the engine (using the ignition key and NOT a remote starter to assure timing will be set correctly) and allow the engine to return to normal operating temperature.
With the engine running at the specified rpm, check the initial timing. If adjustments must be made, rotate the distributor while watching the timing marks. Once proper adjustment has been reached, make sure the distributor is not disturbed until the hold-down bolt can be secured.
Reconnect the single wire in-line SPOUT connector and check the timing to verify that the distributor is now advancing beyond the initial setting.
Shut the engine OFF and tighten the distributor bolt while CAREFULLY holding the distributor from turning. If the distributor moves, you will have to start the engine and reset the timing.
Restart the engine and repeat the procedure to check the timing and verify that it did not change
Shut the engine OFF, then disconnect the tachometer and timing light.
CHECKING SPARK TIMING ADVANCE
Spark timing advance is controlled by the EEC system. This procedure checks the capability of the ignition module to receive the spark timing command from the EEC module. The use of a volt/ohmmeter is required.

Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Disconnect the pin-in-line connector (SPOUT connector) near the TFI module.
Start the engine and measure the voltage, at idle, from the SPOUT connector to the distributor base. The reading should equal battery voltage.
If the result is okay, the problem lies within the EEC-IV system.
If the result was not satisfactory, separate the wiring harness connector from the ignition module. Check for damage, corrosion or dirt. Service as necessary.
Measure the resistance between terminal No. 5 and the pin-in-line connector. This test is done at the ignition module connector only. The reading should be less than 5 ohms.
If the reading is okay, replace the TFI module.
If the result was not satisfactory, service the wiring between the pin in-line connector and the TFI connector

__________________
'88 STX Super Cab 4x4
2.9 5spd 180,000 miles
Crappy Paint, Worn Parts,
Fix'em as they Break
when Nowhere is Now Here

Ha Ha... I especially like this part "NEVER run an engine in a garage or building without proper ventilation. Carbon monoxide will quickly enter the body, excluding oxygen from the blood stream. This condition will cause dizziness, sleepiness and eventually death."

I will search the Chilton for the SCOPE and ICM locations.

Thanks alot! i will let you know how goes zit!

Yes, dizziness, sleepiness and eventually death will NOT help with timing

__________________
'88 STX Super Cab 4x4
2.9 5spd 180,000 miles
Crappy Paint, Worn Parts,
Fix'em as they Break
when Nowhere is Now Here

Ok, Not breathing carbon monoxide. Where is the spout jumper and the ICM? Book is no help at all. Sorry for the bother. Thanks

OK...so here is the update, FYI for those whom don't know as i didn't, 1993 3.0 V6 ford rangers with distributors DO NOT have ICMs. Now that the laughter has subsided, all i did was the normal "old school" procedure. I.E. get engine to running temp, shut off engine, loosen the dist. hold down, start engine, attach timing light, set rpm to specified speed, turn dist until correct timing is reached, shut off engine, tighten dist hold down, start engine, recheck timing, Tada!

Thanks for all your help, it did shake the marbles loose in my brain!

I guess some things never change. All is well now?

__________________
'88 STX Super Cab 4x4
2.9 5spd 180,000 miles
Crappy Paint, Worn Parts,
Fix'em as they Break
when Nowhere is Now Here

hello tom, I am trying to find out where the in-line spout connector is located on a 1993 ford ranger 3.0 v6 two wheel drive truck

Hey Ryan, i never found out where the spout connector was.....but if you are doing the timing, just attack it like any old school (non computer) ride and all will be fine. Your vehical timing will be on the sticher under the hood on the front radiator support. Should be 10 deg BTDC.

Sorry and good luck!