Weird coolant leak, below temp sensor???

03GeorgiaPreRanger · #1 01-09-2012, 11:22 AM

Hey guys, I'm working on a 2000 3.0L 2wd XLT for a friend of mine, and thought I was going to be changing the water pump bc at first inspection it was wet with coolant all over the front of the motor near the weep hole, but once I filled it and ran it to be sure I found the real source of the leak. It's a tiny pin hole or crack right below the coolant temp sensor, where a small hose connects to the bottom of that piece sticking out of the front of the intake manifold. The small hose is t-ed into the lower radiator hose. My question:

That piece is threaded into the front of the manifold. Can I change just that piece? The piece is about 3 to 4 inches long, hexagonal in shape its entire body, and has the coolant temp sensor threaded into the top of it, with a short metal pipe sticking out the bottom (where the small hose clamps on and where the crack is located). The Ford stealership was nice enough to fax me a breakdown of the intake manifold, but it doesn't look like it's listed separately... I'm thinking pull one at a junk yard, but I don't want to try and back it out if it's just going to break off in the manifold...?

Anyone else encountered this, and what advice does anyone have?

Thanks!

I'm also trying to attach a picture I stole from a similar recent thread. It's not the piece that is circled, it's the one right below (as looking at the picture, they're beside eachother when mounted on the vehicle).

tomboy · #2 01-09-2012, 06:03 PM

Its a tough choice, sometimes things will thread out easy, other times you just touch it and snap. Might try a little heat around the manifold front, not too much alum melts fast.

03GeorgiaPreRanger · #3 01-10-2012, 07:46 AM

Yeah, looks like pipe thread, so I figured heat the manifold a little and see if I could get it to break loose pretty easily. Also figured it might be a good idea to start at a junk yard to see if it would come out for me there, that way I don't ruin his intake!

Also thought about some JB Weld, but would really like to fix it more permanently...

Thanks for the input!

Redneckstone · #4 01-10-2012, 08:37 AM

go pull a whole lower from the junk yard and just use the j/y one I would say

03GeorgiaPreRanger · #5 01-10-2012, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redneckstone

go pull a whole lower from the junk yard and just use the j/y one I would say

That seems like a whole lot of work compared to just changing or repairing this one piece that I could have out in 30 minutes or less if it's able to be removed...

03GeorgiaPreRanger · #6 01-12-2012, 02:56 PM

Ok, removed the piece fairly easily (once everything was moved out of the way). Broke loose first try, no heat or anything necessary. Here's a pic of it for future reference. That little pipe sticking out the bottom was cracked at the weld (a little worse now bc it touched the ps pump mount a little when coming out). Gonna look at either replacing it through the dealer, or cutting it and welding it back on if not availible, unless I can find one easily at a junk yard

matstang281 · #7 01-22-2012, 04:39 PM

I have a similar leak coming from the same part. Looks like tiny pinholes in the metal. Caused by corrosion I guess.Just wondering if you were able to get the part from Ford or did you go with a used one? If so how much $

Thanks

03GeorgiaPreRanger · #8 01-26-2012, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by matstang281

I have a similar leak coming from the same part. Looks like tiny pinholes in the metal. Caused by corrosion I guess.Just wondering if you were able to get the part from Ford or did you go with a used one? If so how much $

Thanks

Sorry, I totally forgot to go back and update this. I ended up getting it at the dealership for $25, and they even had it in stock!
It wouldn't go back in without removing the mount for the power steering, so I cut about 3/4 of an inch of the pipe and reflared the end as best I could (It's a really long pipe anyway). No issues or leaks since!

Good luck!

Ray02ranger · #9 06-06-2012, 02:01 PM

wooww, GREAT FORUM.
I have the exact same problem, do you know what is part name / part number?

is this only available at dealer?
thanks...

jchatman · #10 09-30-2012, 05:12 PM

I'm having the same trouble. Waiting on the dealership to get part in. I cant remenber what they called it. Pain in the butt to get out for me. Dig the fourm, Thanks!

ladygadabout · #11 11-02-2012, 08:51 PM

Yep, my 99 XLT is sitting in my driveway with the exact same issue. Aluminum tubing cracked clean in two. Not much room to work without disconnecting all the hoses, etc. Luckily I'm within walking distance to the Ford dealership so off I go in the morning... Wish me luck!

Jennifer Lacy,
Houston, Texas

98fordrange · #12 01-05-2013, 08:57 AM

Had the same issue with my 98 Ford Ranger 3.0.. Great Picture of the part. Coolant Sensor Housing unit. I do recommend if you change out the waterpump.. Which means having to remove the AC/PS Bracket as well..I would replace this part as well since you would have the Bracket unattached.. it is a pain to replace and it is common for it to go bad..
In both cases you will need to remove the Bracket easier to do it all in one shot.. It is Dealer Part which I purchased from a local Ford dealership at a cost of $27.00 .. The Part number is F77Z-18599-AA
( Elbow )

ricko999 · #13 01-09-2013, 03:16 PM

BUMP!

The tubing attached to the bottom of that alum. hex block just cracked today on my Ranger. How do you remove/install the new one? There is alt./air cond line/ the other block in the way?!!!

thx,
RDO

Ray02ranger · #14 01-10-2013, 12:24 AM

the tubing coming out off the assembly is very long and in the way.
either cut a small section off or remove what you need to secure the elbow. I chose to cut off a 1/4 inch off the tubing and mounted this elbow without having to remove anything else.
make sure the hose is secured.

ricko999 · #15 01-11-2013, 07:21 AM

Replaced the elbow last night. I had to loosen the AC comp and the c-clip holding the ac line to thread the elbow. I did have to cut off 1/4" do miss the AC comp mount. Tight fit for doing any kind of engine front work.