does sound like a potential fuel issue.....bad gas?..Do you put sta-bil or anything in the gas? you should try and drive it more than 500 a year...I wold change the fuel filter and then do a fuel pressure test......harbor freight has the cheap gauge for $20.......wrap Teflon tape around the shrader valve before putting the gauge on it. do all 3 pressure tests? Add some Techron to the tank. that might help a gummed up checkvalve and also clean up the injectors. The stuff is awesome.

*also make sure the intake is clear and clean the MAF....

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

I thought that, too, when I was dealing with my Silverado, but just like you said, when they USUALLY die they are just dead, but I learned by testing and observation that a pump can actually just get weak. Yes, I had fuel pressure because the pump was still running, but not enough to start the truck right away. I actually tested that and saw it on the pressure gauge I installed on the fuel line on the frame rail, so I wouldn't just automatically rule a fuel pump out just because you hear it running, but I still recommend to check fuel pressure as part of anyone's diagnosis if you get to that point, just like some other guys on here said previously. Just my 2 cents worth, and I hope you guys get to the bottom of your problems soon.

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2003 Ford Ranger Edge, 2wd, 3.0L, Auto, Reg Cab, stock for now...

it always fires right up if I cycle the ignition on and off several times before I attempt to start it. Dumped a bottle of injector cleaner through it too. I have driven it quite a bit lately, trying to burn the remaining fuel in the tank. Then put a half a tank of new gas in.

Anyone get a definitive answer to this? My 2005 4-cyl will sometimes balk at starting. Prodding the gas usually works to get it to fire up, but sometimes it will take 3-4 turns of the key to start it. I'll probably change my battery soon regardless, do a fuel filter and a plug change, but it would be nice to know what else I should check.

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2005 Ranger * 2WD * 4-cyl * 5-speed * 114k * Throttle Cable Mod *
New to Rangers but loving it so far

Hey guys.

Thank you everybody for your responses. Back here with the same original problem. I left town for three months and now just getting back to it. I am very close to being able to publish a very comprehensive trouble shooting and fix analysis to the problems... as I really have pretty much tried everything and is by the time I fix this I would have learned a lot.

Three questions I need help with please.

1) To clarify, when you guys say that when you put the key in the "run" position you should hear the pump. Do you guys mean just in the on position without actually cranking the starter? I have removed the bed of my truck as someone suggested (which by the way is a GREAT suggestion 10 times easier getting to the pump that way and you dont really need two guys to help you, more on that soon)... so I can put the key in the on position without cranking the starter and put my ear right next to the pump, I should be able to hear it??? Cause I dont hear a thing.

2) This "weak" pump concepts seems to be one of my problems (I think I have/had a combination of problems). However given the above that I cannot hear the pump it seems to be a weak-pump-only-when starting problem, again because it runs PERFECT once it runs, 85 mi/hr on the highway for hours no problem. Does this make sense? Do the people that suggested the weak pump still think this could be my issue. An expensive item that would rather avoid replacing.

3) Fuel pressure test. So I was reluctant to buy a tester as I was using more a trial and error process... having said that can someone tell me what to look for when I do test the pressure. Someone mentioned 3 test. What are the 3 test? What pressure should I have when I turn the key? What pressure should I have when I crank the starter? What pressure should I have when the car is running? What should happen to the pressure when I step on the gas? I am assuming this is tested in the manifold shredder valve right?

Thanks all. This forum Rocks! I will do my contribution to it as soon as I fixe this.

So I figured out what you guys mean when you say that when the key is in the on position the pump should run. I finally was able to hear it. HOWEVER, it goes on for about two seconds and then it shuts off. I can hear it and I can also feel/hear the relay popping on and off. Is it supposed to stay on for as long as the key switch is in the on postion??? or just briefly like what I am seeing? When I turn the key on the on position the pump goes on and the ABS light goes on for a few seconds and then they both simultaneously shut off. Is this what is supposed to happen?? This now explains to me why the turning the key on and off that some posters replied helps get gas in the systems if that is the case, but again not sure it is expected behavior.

If it is then and the theory is still I have a ¨weak¨ pump it makes sense that a "weak" pump after several "pumps" (on and off of the key) would eventually supply enough fuel to start.

Any tips on removing the fuel line from the pump. That little 5/16 plastic tools are not cutting it, nor is the sharpie cap that some video on the internet suggests.

Yes, the pump will run 2 to 3 seconds in the "on" position to prime the system, then will start pumpin again as soon as you turn the key to the "start" position, then will remain running as long as the motor is running in the "on" position again.

You can get a fuel pressure tester at Autozone for free through their loan-a-tool, just have to give them a deposit that you will get back once you return it. "T" it into the fuel line (I'm not sure exactly where on your truck, maybe frame-rail under driver's door...?), check pressure in the "on" position without it running, cycle the key a few times, see if it goes up each time, then check the pressure with it running. Might not definitively tell you whats wrong, but will be good info in helping the diagnosis.

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2003 Ford Ranger Edge, 2wd, 3.0L, Auto, Reg Cab, stock for now...

Fresh tank of gas, two bottles of injector cleaner, and a new battery solved my problem.

I also had this issue with my 99 Ranger, replaced the fuel pump, no change in cold weather intermittent starting.
So I replaced the Starter solenoid switch and "no more problem". Since the Starter solenoid switch is mounted in easy reach, inside the engine compartment it was a 10 min fix.
Best of luck to all with this issue.

I wonder if OP fixed the problem from 7 years ago.

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2002 3.0 Ford Ranger 4x2, Auto, 250k miles

I'm having a similar problem -
I have a 2002 Ranger, 3.0l 174k miles
Was working fine until temperature dropped below 40F.
started up, ran many short trips, no hesitation, accelerated fine
Will start using starter fluid and eventually would run.
Now below 30, and won't continue to run at all.
Find No pressure on the fuel rail.
Can't hear fuel pump run when key turns on.
Voltage verified with test light to inertia switch.

Only conclusion is fuel pump at end of life.

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My Truck -
2002 Ranger 2wd, 174k miles
Std Cab, 118 in wheel base
long bed
3.0 L V6 (U) engine, auto transmission

no fuel pressure at the rail, & no "1-3 sec "hum" after turning the switch just before starting does sound like your fuel pump.... Not good for sure. When I changed mine it was a pain having to remove the entire truck bed to get to it.

How did you check the fuel pump relay? Try swapping in a new relay. Also try some electrical parts cleaner such as CRC Lectra-Motive in the plug-ins for the relay. Some conductive grease on the relay terminals would keep them corrosion-free.

How old is your battery?? I know this sounds strange BUT i proved it to a mech buddy of mine!!

My truck had issues startin after i left it over night. Would put key in and have to cycle and would start but if i didnt do that, it would crank over and not start for 5-7 seconds of cranking!
My battery was at the end of its life 11.6 volts.. Would be enough to crank it over and sound normal but not enough to feed the fuel pump i guess!!

put a brand new battery in and prob solved.. starts right up now

I replaced my battery with a brand new one as well, but the cold start still continued a few weeks later. Wasn't till I replaced the starter solenoid that the cold start issue stopped.
The "clicking sound" many have heard is indictive to the solenoid. That was my outcome at any rate.