Cruise Control Diagnostics

Jonleon · #1 07-18-2011, 08:02 PM

Im trying to pinpoint why my cruise control is not working, Ive tried to research a little but I havent had any luck. The switches all work because the lights on the dash turn on. So im thinking it has to be something in the engine bay. Also Could somebody possibly send a picture of how their Cruise control throttle cable is hooked up to the throttle body because mine doesnt seem correct?.This is for a 2000 ford ranger. Im taking a 8 hr drive to Yosemite next month and I would like it to work this time around! thanks in advance.

DangerRanger2000 · #2 07-18-2011, 08:06 PM

This model truck had a recall on the cruise control system, i took mine in a while back and they did something to it but im not sure what it was, it might be your problem take to the ford place and see if they'll fix it for free.

Jonleon · #3 07-18-2011, 08:10 PM

I fixed the recall issue already and it still doesnt work! lol

DangerRanger2000 · #4 07-18-2011, 08:11 PM

Haha! Well dang that was the only help i could think of lol

Jonleon · #5 07-18-2011, 08:18 PM

Well thanks for the input anyways haha!

Jonleon · #6 07-19-2011, 11:32 AM

Someone has to know!

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rwenzing · #7 07-19-2011, 01:08 PM

The following self-diagnostic procedure is from the 2002 Ranger shop manual but it works on many Ford years and models.

Do not start engine during this test. Transmission in Park or Neutral with parking brake applied.

Put the key in the ignition and hold the OFF button on the speed control then turn the key to the on position and then release the OFF button. This puts the speed control in diagnostic mode.

Within 5 seconds of releasing the OFF button, start pressing the buttons in the sequence shown below:

ON
RESUME
COAST
SET/ACCEL

(For each button pressed, the speed control light should flash ONCE, indicating that the pressed button is working.)

If, after pressing the last button (SET/ACCEL), the speed control light flashes:

2 flashes - defective brake pedal position sensor and/or a bad clutch pedal position sensor or the circuit is defective.
3 flashes - Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is defective.
4 flashes - Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.

Immediately after the last flash code is complete, the speed control servo will pull the throttle open and then release it. This should be watched to check that the throttle and cable are not binding or inoperative for any other reason.

Although it is rare, it is also possible that this code could flash early during the diagnostic procedure.

5 flashes – Speed Control Actuator defective.

Turn ignition switch to the off position after test.

Jonleon · #8 07-19-2011, 01:14 PM

Sweet! Thanks for the info! I will give it a shot after work.

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Jonleon · #9 07-19-2011, 04:02 PM

Mine only flashes once, also it pulls the cable a little. I think mines not fully engaging because its ziptied on at the throttle body. Could somebody possibly post a picture of how theirs is hooked up at the throttle body, also post a pic of how their cable is routed under the hood. THANKS!

sheltonfilms · #10 08-04-2011, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonleon

Mine only flashes once, also it pulls the cable a little. I think mines not fully engaging because its ziptied on at the throttle body. Could somebody possibly post a picture of how theirs is hooked up at the throttle body, also post a pic of how their cable is routed under the hood. THANKS!

Haha I have mine ziptied. I put three of them on. Mines a 2.5 but it should have somewhat of a similar routing. Mine goes across the HVAC BOx and clips to the heater hose bracket on top of it and then around the back of the engine bay close to the firewall (goes through an eyelet clip on the rear of the engine) then bends and goes back toward the passenger side and is attached to the throttle cable bracket. Should be a hole there. I think from factory ford just put a screw there without a nut to hold it in.

Jonleon · #11 08-05-2011, 04:55 PM

I figured out why mine wasnt working, Now I can cruise to Yosemite without pressing the gas the whole way! sweeet!

sheltonfilms · #12 08-05-2011, 05:38 PM

What was it? Too much slack in the cable?

Jonleon · #13 08-05-2011, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sheltonfilms

What was it? Too much slack in the cable?

Exactly! Now its working perfectly!

ranger4000 · #14 10-04-2013, 02:53 PM

Im having the same kinda problems, after i did the test i got 2 flashes, indicating brake or clutch peddle, However if i turn the key to start the truck without depressing the clutch and then press the clutch in, the truck starts, and when i press the brakes the tail lights do come on, if one of the switches was bad wouldn't that mean ither my truck wouldn't start (clutch switch) or that my brake lights wouldn't come on brake switch, am i missing something? i need some help with this one

sheltonfilms · #15 10-04-2013, 02:59 PM

I don't think it's the clutch, iirc it only has 1 internal switch. I think the brake light switch has two or three. This is to keep the brake light circuit and the brake deactivation circuits currents separate. So it could be the brake switch.

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Let me pull my diagrams later and I will tell you which two wires at the switch to probe for continuity with a multimeter.