So i cleaned my idle air control valve today, yeah what a mistake that was. Time to buy a new one. truck ran like SHIT. Idk if any of yall have had good results from doing this but mine didnt turn out the way i had hoped they would.

You have to be careful not to allow any into the electrical parts.

Usually, 7 times out of 10, cleaning the IAC doesn't work if it has already failed. It's just amazing how Ford has been using the same IAC design since 1985, yet they still fail regularly.

As he said it probably didn't need cleaned it was bad to begin with.

Cleaned my sister in laws on her mustang and it didn't work either. Bought a new one and it ran just fine.

__________________

Yeah i was careful about cleaning it. It had alot of black in there in the first hole. The second wasnt bad. But i did buy a new one and it runs better than ever now. There also wasnt a gasket when i pulled the old IAC off.

Mine didnt have a gasket on the old one either. With a new one I even tried both ways and never had good luck. Just ended up putting the original back on.

Ive honestly never had any luck at all. I bought a new one awhile back just as general maintainance. Never could get the idle to go down, and yes I went through the whole relearning process your supposed to do, even tried both manual and auto ways numerous times.

Even went as far as sending it back to rockauto and having them send me another one and still same issues. Sometimes just have bad luck.

__________________
2006 Ford Ranger Supercab 4x4 XL. 4.0 5spd. To much to list-SOLD!

Ill be back

That sucks dude. I just went to Autozone and picked up a new one and my truck runs so much better with it now. I wont ever try cleaing it again tho, a buddy of mine has a 92 ranger and tried cleaing his and the same thing happened. He now has a new one also.

__________________
2006 Ford Ranger XL 4x4 single cab with a 3.0, 3 inch PA body lift with gap guards, 1.5 inch torsion bar keys and a 0.5 inch crank, 33x12.50 inch BFG AT KO's, 15x10 inch Eagle Alloy Classic II's, dual in dual out single magnaflow muffler, rolled exhaust tips, new superlift shocks, clear corners, Linex bedliner, toolbox w/ whip antenna, K&N cold air intake, and lots more

I did the same thing, turns out solvents destroy them! So I bought a new one as well, and like the others stated, no there isn't a gasket.

Cleaning temporarily helped. It turned out the old IAC solenoid valve spring was also broken. Bought new IAC from AutoZone and there was a gasket. However, the orientation of the new IAC valve is slightly different than OEM. The cable was stretched a bit while trying to plug in new unit but the slack is okay after install.

What ranger do you have where the orientation was different? Can you make a sig?

i cleaned mine with with no problem a while ago. Along with the throttle body and intake tube and all inside the intake with the MAF sensor. No problems at all. And "YES" there is a gasket! i made sure to replace mine. Mine is a 01 and my brothers 02 has two "o'" rings for the gaskets. And i also clean his the same day no problems and then i cleaned my dads 86 ranger no problem. Then my dads tundra no problem. What brand did you use?? I used CRC. here is a thread about it

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/off-t...or-ranger.html

__________________
-1995 ford ranger prerunner, 4.0, 4x4, 5-speed, 62k original miles, 2.5 radflo bypass front and 2.5 radflo triple bypass rear, deavers f23, 4.56 gears front and back, 07 seats, 07 mirrors, 35x12.50 bfg a/t, 4" fiberwerk glass front and rear, eagle alloy rims, 6k hid heads, two 8k hid off road lights, 34" led light bar, bed/roll cage/engine cage, 25 gallon fuel cell, cut and extended beams/radius arms
-2000 ford SVT f150 lightning -SOLD Lifted 2001 Ford Ranger EDGE, April's 2012 TOTM

I used the CRC TB cleaner and followed how to do it. I was careful not to spray to much and just cleaned it. When i pulled it off originally there wasnt a gasket in between. But after i cleaned it my truck ran like shit so i just went and bought a new one. Runs great now.

__________________
2006 Ford Ranger XL 4x4 single cab with a 3.0, 3 inch PA body lift with gap guards, 1.5 inch torsion bar keys and a 0.5 inch crank, 33x12.50 inch BFG AT KO's, 15x10 inch Eagle Alloy Classic II's, dual in dual out single magnaflow muffler, rolled exhaust tips, new superlift shocks, clear corners, Linex bedliner, toolbox w/ whip antenna, K&N cold air intake, and lots more

2001 back had the paper gasket, 02+ with the plastic intake gained the two o-rings.

What are the signs that the IAC is not working.

Some of the ones I've noticed with my truck are very low idle rpms, stumbling, surging idle, sometimes dying. Also, sometimes the idle will surge with the A/C compressor clutch. Whenever it kicks on and puts a load on the system, the IAC can't compensate, so the rpms drop. Then when the clutch cycles off, the idle jumps back up since the load was taken off. You may also see these same fluctuations when you turn the wheels full tilt. Also, your rpms will drop whenever you put the vehicle into gear.

Of course, if you don't have a tachometer, you'll have to try and feel the changes in rpms.

I have those issues now lol. New IAC on

__________________
2006 Ford Ranger XL 4x4 single cab with a 3.0, 3 inch PA body lift with gap guards, 1.5 inch torsion bar keys and a 0.5 inch crank, 33x12.50 inch BFG AT KO's, 15x10 inch Eagle Alloy Classic II's, dual in dual out single magnaflow muffler, rolled exhaust tips, new superlift shocks, clear corners, Linex bedliner, toolbox w/ whip antenna, K&N cold air intake, and lots more