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  #1  
Old 06-26-2011, 12:24 PM
JustlookinforHP
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 54
Post 3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS

Hey guys I've searched the internet up and down looking for some engine mods to add horsepower. I can't find a CAI or programmer and all the chips I read about are just cheap resistors. Yall have any ideas on some DIY mods for a 1994 3.0l?

Any ideas are helpful
__________________
1994 Ford ranger. 91k miles. Auto trans. 3.0lwith a rod shot thru block. Flowtech Terminator exhaust w/ turndown. 27X8.5X14 General Grabber AT2 tires. Pretty much a stock truck. Hoping to resurrect her pretty soon
  #2  
Old 06-26-2011, 12:27 PM
Ford Ranger Driver
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 12,434
Default Re: 3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS

the 3.slow is destined to be just that. i got a k&n air filter, and that helps. but the only other mods would be an upgraded coil pack, and a throttle body soacer. but ive heard that throttle body spacers dont do much.
  #3  
Old 06-26-2011, 12:36 PM
JustlookinforHP
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 54
Default Re: 3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS

How much am I looking at if I get a new coil pack? What do they do?
__________________
1994 Ford ranger. 91k miles. Auto trans. 3.0lwith a rod shot thru block. Flowtech Terminator exhaust w/ turndown. 27X8.5X14 General Grabber AT2 tires. Pretty much a stock truck. Hoping to resurrect her pretty soon
  #4  
Old 07-05-2011, 10:14 AM
Liking the Ford Ranger Forum
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 25
Default Re: 3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS

Pssh, my '05 3.0l ranger can keep up with a benz c230 (supercharged 4 cyl) and beat mazda 3's with turbos, and just about every honda ricer out there.
And im getting over 20mpg city.

All I got is CAI, custom exhaust (I did myself), IAT sensor chip, 02 sensor chips.
Im about to get a tuner, performance ignition, get forged heads, pistons, springs, performance camshaft, jba headers.

Ill be racing the truck at the local raceway soon.
The 3.0l can be modded nicely, you just cant find aftermarket parts for it, so custom is the way to go.
__________________
2005 Ford Ranger EDGE 3.0L V6
- Cherry Bomb Glasspack + 15.5" SLP Tip - Custom CAI - IAT Performance Chip - O2 Performance Modules - JET Performance Tuning (Soon) - Shortned exhaust (side exiting, before rear wheel) -
All done by myself; oh yes Test&Tune 1/4mi Times coming soon!
  #5  
Old 07-05-2011, 10:19 AM
Almost ******
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 7,482
Default Re: 3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS

throw all the money at the 3.0 you want, when it boils down to it you could spend (sometimes less) money on a 4.0 swap and be a lot happier.
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  #6  
Old 07-05-2011, 12:29 PM
Ranger + Mud= Devistation
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 174
Default Re: 3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004xlmiller View Post
the 3.slow is destined to be just that. i got a k&n air filter, and that helps. but the only other mods would be an upgraded coil pack, and a throttle body soacer. but ive heard that throttle body spacers dont do much.
in '94 they had distributors not coil packs... nothing you can really do to make it better...
__________________
1994 ranger 4x4 XLT
-3.0l 5speed
-31x10.50 Dunlop Mud Rovers on 15x8 Soft 8's
-Cobra 29LTD CB
-Custom rear bumper, Aftermarket front.
-Mustang dome light
-Cherry Bomb Glasspack, Gutted cats.
  #7  
Old 07-05-2011, 02:07 PM
DirtFreeks Mtrspts #7299
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 180
Default Re: 3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS

My 99 3.0 hauls ass.
__________________
DirtFreeks Motorsports
  #8  
Old 07-05-2011, 02:53 PM
2003 Ranger 3.0 V6 Flex
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 167
Default Re: 3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS

What? I'm assuming you're talking about those mazdaspeed3s... they are some 273 hp. I used to have a VW GTI with only 200 hp. My 3.0 is slow as hell! I'd like to know how exactly you are able to accomplish what you claim.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marneus901 View Post
Pssh, my '05 3.0l ranger can keep up with a benz c230 (supercharged 4 cyl) and beat mazda 3's with turbos, and just about every honda ricer out there.
And im getting over 20mpg city.

All I got is CAI, custom exhaust (I did myself), IAT sensor chip, 02 sensor chips.
Im about to get a tuner, performance ignition, get forged heads, pistons, springs, performance camshaft, jba headers.

Ill be racing the truck at the local raceway soon.
The 3.0l can be modded nicely, you just cant find aftermarket parts for it, so custom is the way to go.
  #9  
Old 07-05-2011, 05:16 PM
Liking the Ford Ranger Forum
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 25
Default Re: 3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS

How do I know what I claim?
Im sitting at a stop light, a red mazda 3 rolls up, revs engine.
Light turns green, we both go, he spins his tires in 1, 2, and 3rd gear; and I hear the turbo releasing pressure when shifting. He has me with low end torque, but my exhaust is a 2.5in diameter cherrybomb glasspack right next to the resonator (the empty cat converter look-a-like after the post-cat sensors) that immediately comes out the side of the truck before the rear wheel with a 2.5in diameter 15.5in length SLP tip (2 1/4in is stock diameter; so in turn, opening + shortening the exhaust = what?). I have good medium-high end torque because the exhaust releases the backpressure nicely. When im going 60+mph on the highway, and want to full throttle it, it wont lag or be slow with the acceleration; it accelerates almost just as normal if not better (because it down shifts) as 1-60mph. Its also maryland state emissions legal because its a cat-back system that exits after the cab, and has a legal muffler - no matter how loud it is, cops cant give me a ticket for it in MD because it is completely legal in all aspects - no exhaust leaks, post-cab exiting, muffler, stock cats, even still has stock resonator.

Then I have my own custom made CAI - I took the stock airbox top with the MAF sensor, cutoff the box leaving the little bit of tubing that has the sensor, put in a coupler to couple the MAF sensor adapter + specter cone filter. This increases the air intake safely (not too much to allow the engine to run lean/hot, dispite the fact CEL is on, its just not factory settings).

Then, I bought a performance IAT sensor mod chip that modifies the air intake signal (which im already getting better air-flow) to level-out the fuel-air mapping (by increasing gas intake when needed) and get a stronger powerband and throttle response.
Then I also have 02 sensor chip mods (2 because of having 2 post cat sensors) which does the same thing, but with the exhaust fumes, and in conjunction with the IAT sensor mod + CAI, you get a REAL NICE smooth powerband ontop of alot better gas milage (if I dont stomp on it alot, I can get upto 25mpg city).
Oh, and I also use 89 or higher octane.

I ended up beating the mazda 3 with me going 90mph (max speed due to speed limiter) by the time he was shifting into 5th gear - he was at about 70mph because by now I was already passed him and leaving him (hes manual, im automatic to make it even that much better).

Then, how do I know in regards to my best friends c230 kompressor sport? We have raced, ALOT. Were like brothers and adrenaline junkies. He gets me off the line everytime because of the supercharger, but if we do a roll 20, 30, or 40mph, my truck has him up until my speed limiter kicks in at 90mph and his car can go 140mph easy.

Im also a mechanic, and have done oil changes every 2500-3000 miles with performance grade oil (used for corvettes, lotus, hummers - I work for criswell performance cars), along with doing a trans flush, and full rear diff service, amongst other services.

Once I get a performance tuner, ill be able to change the fuel+air ratio mappings (and fix the CEL with the CAI), and trans gear shift points and firmness, to be able to get more low end torque so I dont play catch-up and win on a stop -> go; and program the computer for 93 octance - end up getting better mppg and more horsepower.
Then get a MSD or Jacobs electronics ultra-coil ignition system to go with higher octance fuel; more fuel effeciency (mpg, using less fuel to make the same combustion because of faster hotter spark), throttle response (hotter spark), and horsepower (faster + hotter spark).
Then you all should know what headers, forged heads, pistons, springs, performance camshaft with a possibility of roller rockers can do.

The way I look at it; I can easily acheive 400hp in the 3.0l v6 without any boost, and I wont be spending more than 1-2k $ (shit ive only spent.... 400$ so far? 50$ for exhaust (tip was free), 45$ for CAI, 150$ iat sensor mod, 80$ per 02 sensor mod), and its fun to do the labor on your own and learn. So no, engine conversions are out of the question both in time, and cost effectiveness. Besides, wouldnt it be great to race a 6.0l v8 corvette with a 3.0l v6 that comes stock with only 148hp, and almost win (if you have all the mods I listed, you *should* be able to come close - corvettes : non z06 or zr1's are 400-430hp stock), on a PICKUP TRUCK AT THAT? I laugh at every person that already races me. Oh, and its all completely safe for the engine as long as you dont fuck up your labor (people say CEL because of CAI is going to make my engine run too hot from being 'lean', but ive watched it closely, and the temperature never changed from stock to CAI, and theres no valve tapping, and my intake is sealed clean so no debris gets into the block, and its the same intake but with a less restrictive filter - cone vs hole in a box. Also, having exhaust leaks will lead to failing cat converters, or an exhaust system thats too open (e.g. exit right after headers/striaght pipe w no cats, ect) will reduce power because you dont have enough backpressure.

Thing that most people dont think about, is you can do one upgrade, but it might be better with it working alongside another. A CAI isnt really good with stock exhaust - more air in you need more air out - more flow = more power. The exhaust compliments the CAI and vice-versa. You also need the 02 sensor mods alongside the IAT sensor mod otherwise it will confuse the ECU in terms of gas usage and wether or not the cats are working correctly.

Put it all together, and you got my truck that im not afriad to race; and its normally aspirated. And sounds fucking nice with the glasspack on a shortned exhaust (sounds like a mean v8 racing on the highway).


Im also going to be redoing the exhaust soon to expand the diameter to 2.5in all the way (the 45 angle peice is a 2 1/4 o.d.).
The exhaust was hanging a little in the picture because it was before I re-hung it to be more supported - the tip is a little heavy and theres nothing to hang on on the truck bed; I have it hanging on the frame with a heavy-duty exhaust hanger now.
__________________
2005 Ford Ranger EDGE 3.0L V6
- Cherry Bomb Glasspack + 15.5" SLP Tip - Custom CAI - IAT Performance Chip - O2 Performance Modules - JET Performance Tuning (Soon) - Shortned exhaust (side exiting, before rear wheel) -
All done by myself; oh yes Test&Tune 1/4mi Times coming soon!

Last edited by Marneus901; 07-05-2011 at 05:53 PM.
  #10  
Old 07-05-2011, 05:20 PM
Liking the Ford Ranger Forum
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 17
Default Re: 3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS

^What gears you running? Stock?
  #11  
Old 07-05-2011, 05:54 PM
2003 Ranger 3.0 V6 Flex
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 167
Default Re: 3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS

Thanks for the info! Sounds like you know what you are doing.

I keep my acceleration and foolishness for my motorcycle and dirtbike, respectively. If I want to go fast in a vehicle I'd buy a Lotus or something. But everyone has their hobbies.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Marneus901 View Post
How do I know what I claim?
Im sitting at a stop light, a red mazda 3 rolls up, revs engine.
Light turns green, we both go, he spins his tires in 1, 2, and 3rd gear; and I hear the turbo releasing pressure when shifting. He has me with low end torque, but my exhaust is a 2.5in diameter cherrybomb glasspack right next to the resonator (the empty cat converter look-a-like after the post-cat sensors) that immediately comes out the side of the truck before the rear wheel with a 2.5in diameter 15.5in length SLP tip (2 1/4in is stock diameter; so in turn, opening + shortening the exhaust = what?). I have good medium-high end torque because the exhaust releases the backpressure nicely. When im going 60+mph on the highway, and want to full throttle it, it wont lag or be slow with the acceleration; it accelerates almost just as normal if not better (because it down shifts) as 1-60mph. Its also maryland state emissions legal because its a cat-back system that exits after the cab, and has a legal muffler - no matter how loud it is, cops cant give me a ticket for it in MD because it is completely legal in all aspects - no exhaust leaks, post-cab exiting, muffler, stock cats, even still has stock resonator.

Then I have my own custom made CAI - I took the stock airbox top with the MAF sensor, cutoff the box leaving the little bit of tubing that has the sensor, put in a coupler to couple the MAF sensor adapter + specter cone filter. This increases the air intake safely (not too much to allow the engine to run lean/hot, dispite the fact CEL is on, its just not factory settings).

Then, I bought a performance IAT sensor mod chip that modifies the air intake signal (which im already getting better air-flow) to level-out the fuel-air mapping (by increasing gas intake when needed) and get a stronger powerband and throttle response.
Then I also have 02 sensor chip mods (2 because of having 2 post cat sensors) which does the same thing, but with the exhaust fumes, and in conjunction with the IAT sensor mod + CAI, you get a REAL NICE smooth powerband ontop of alot better gas milage (if I dont stomp on it alot, I can get upto 25mpg city).
Oh, and I also use 89 or higher octane.

I ended up beating the mazda 3 with me going 90mph (max speed due to speed limiter) by the time he was shifting into 4th gear (hes manual, im automatic to make it even that much better).

Then, how do I know in regards to my best friends c230 kompressor sport? We have raced, ALOT. Were like brothers and adrenaline junkies. He gets me off the line everytime because of the supercharger, but if we do a roll 20, 30, or 40mph, my truck has him up until my speed limiter kicks in at 90mph and his car can go 140mph easy.

Im also a mechanic, and have done oil changes every 2500-3000 miles with performance grade oil (used for corvettes, lotus, hummers - I work for criswell performance cars), along with doing a trans flush, and full rear diff service, amongst other services.

Once I get a performance tuner, ill be able to change the fuel+air ratio mappings (and fix the CEL with the CAI), and trans gear shift points and firmness, to be able to get more low end torque so I dont play catch-up and win on a stop -> go; and program the computer for 93 octance - end up getting better mppg and more horsepower.
Then get a MSD or Jacobs electronics ultra-coil ignition system to go with higher octance fuel; more fuel effeciency (mpg, using less fuel to make the same combustion because of faster hotter spark), throttle response (hotter spark), and horsepower (faster + hotter spark).
Then you all should know what headers, forged heads, pistons, springs, performance camshaft with a possibility of roller rockers can do.

The way I look at it; I can easily acheive 400hp in the 3.0l v6 without any boost, and I wont be spending more than 1-2k $ (shit ive only spent.... 400$ so far? 50$ for exhaust (tip was free), 45$ for CAI, 150$ iat sensor mod, 80$ per 02 sensor mod), and its fun to do the labor on your own and learn. So no, engine conversions are out of the question both in time, and cost effectiveness. Besides, wouldnt it be great to race a 5.3l v8 corvette with a 3.0l v6 that comes stock with only 148hp, on a PICKUP TRUCK AT THAT? I laugh at every person that already races me. Oh, and its all completely safe for the engine as long as you dont fuck up your labor (people say CEL because of CAI is going to make my engine run too hot from being 'lean', but ive watched it closely, and the temperature never changed from stock to CAI, and theres no valve tapping, and my intake is sealed clean so no debris gets into the block, and its the same intake but with a less restrictive filter - cone vs hole in a box. Also, having exhaust leaks will lead to failing cat converters, or an exhaust system thats too open (e.g. exit right after headers/striaght pipe w no cats, ect) will reduce power because you dont have enough backpressure.

Thing that most people dont think about, is you can do one upgrade, but it might be better with it working alongside another. A CAI isnt really good with stock exhaust - more air in you need more air out - more flow = more power. The exhaust compliments the CAI and vice-versa. You also need the 02 sensor mods alongside the IAT sensor mod otherwise it will confuse the ECU in terms of gas usage and wether or not the cats are working correctly.

Put it all together, and you got my truck that im not afriad to race; and its normally aspirated. And sounds fucking nice with the glasspack on a shortned exhaust (sounds like a mean v8 racing on the highway).


Im also going to be redoing the exhaust soon to expand the diameter to 2.5in all the way (the 45 angle peice is a 2 1/4 o.d.).
The exhaust was hanging a little in the picture because it was before I re-hung it to be more supported - the tip is a little heavy and theres nothing to hang on on the truck bed; I have it hanging on the frame with a heavy-duty exhaust hanger now.
  #12  
Old 07-05-2011, 06:01 PM
Ford Ranger Driver
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 589
Default Re: 3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marneus901 View Post
How do I know what I claim?
Im sitting at a stop light, a red mazda 3 rolls up, revs engine.
Light turns green, we both go, he spins his tires in 1, 2, and 3rd gear; and I hear the turbo releasing pressure when shifting. He has me with low end torque, but my exhaust is a 2.5in diameter cherrybomb glasspack right next to the resonator (the empty cat converter look-a-like after the post-cat sensors) that immediately comes out the side of the truck before the rear wheel with a 2.5in diameter 15.5in length SLP tip (2 1/4in is stock diameter; so in turn, opening + shortening the exhaust = what?). I have good medium-high end torque because the exhaust releases the backpressure nicely. When im going 60+mph on the highway, and want to full throttle it, it wont lag or be slow with the acceleration; it accelerates almost just as normal if not better (because it down shifts) as 1-60mph. Its also maryland state emissions legal because its a cat-back system that exits after the cab, and has a legal muffler - no matter how loud it is, cops cant give me a ticket for it in MD because it is completely legal in all aspects - no exhaust leaks, post-cab exiting, muffler, stock cats, even still has stock resonator.

Then I have my own custom made CAI - I took the stock airbox top with the MAF sensor, cutoff the box leaving the little bit of tubing that has the sensor, put in a coupler to couple the MAF sensor adapter + specter cone filter. This increases the air intake safely (not too much to allow the engine to run lean/hot, dispite the fact CEL is on, its just not factory settings).

Then, I bought a performance IAT sensor mod chip that modifies the air intake signal (which im already getting better air-flow) to level-out the fuel-air mapping (by increasing gas intake when needed) and get a stronger powerband and throttle response.
Then I also have 02 sensor chip mods (2 because of having 2 post cat sensors) which does the same thing, but with the exhaust fumes, and in conjunction with the IAT sensor mod + CAI, you get a REAL NICE smooth powerband ontop of alot better gas milage (if I dont stomp on it alot, I can get upto 25mpg city).
Oh, and I also use 89 or higher octane.

I ended up beating the mazda 3 with me going 90mph (max speed due to speed limiter) by the time he was shifting into 5th gear - he was at about 70mph because by now I was already passed him and leaving him (hes manual, im automatic to make it even that much better).

Then, how do I know in regards to my best friends c230 kompressor sport? We have raced, ALOT. Were like brothers and adrenaline junkies. He gets me off the line everytime because of the supercharger, but if we do a roll 20, 30, or 40mph, my truck has him up until my speed limiter kicks in at 90mph and his car can go 140mph easy.

Im also a mechanic, and have done oil changes every 2500-3000 miles with performance grade oil (used for corvettes, lotus, hummers - I work for criswell performance cars), along with doing a trans flush, and full rear diff service, amongst other services.

Once I get a performance tuner, ill be able to change the fuel+air ratio mappings (and fix the CEL with the CAI), and trans gear shift points and firmness, to be able to get more low end torque so I dont play catch-up and win on a stop -> go; and program the computer for 93 octance - end up getting better mppg and more horsepower.
Then get a MSD or Jacobs electronics ultra-coil ignition system to go with higher octance fuel; more fuel effeciency (mpg, using less fuel to make the same combustion because of faster hotter spark), throttle response (hotter spark), and horsepower (faster + hotter spark).
Then you all should know what headers, forged heads, pistons, springs, performance camshaft with a possibility of roller rockers can do.

The way I look at it; I can easily acheive 400hp in the 3.0l v6 without any boost, and I wont be spending more than 1-2k $ (shit ive only spent.... 400$ so far? 50$ for exhaust (tip was free), 45$ for CAI, 150$ iat sensor mod, 80$ per 02 sensor mod), and its fun to do the labor on your own and learn. So no, engine conversions are out of the question both in time, and cost effectiveness. Besides, wouldnt it be great to race a 6.0l v8 corvette with a 3.0l v6 that comes stock with only 148hp, and almost win (if you have all the mods I listed, you *should* be able to come close - corvettes : non z06 or zr1's are 400-430hp stock), on a PICKUP TRUCK AT THAT? I laugh at every person that already races me. Oh, and its all completely safe for the engine as long as you dont fuck up your labor (people say CEL because of CAI is going to make my engine run too hot from being 'lean', but ive watched it closely, and the temperature never changed from stock to CAI, and theres no valve tapping, and my intake is sealed clean so no debris gets into the block, and its the same intake but with a less restrictive filter - cone vs hole in a box. Also, having exhaust leaks will lead to failing cat converters, or an exhaust system thats too open (e.g. exit right after headers/striaght pipe w no cats, ect) will reduce power because you dont have enough backpressure.

Thing that most people dont think about, is you can do one upgrade, but it might be better with it working alongside another. A CAI isnt really good with stock exhaust - more air in you need more air out - more flow = more power. The exhaust compliments the CAI and vice-versa. You also need the 02 sensor mods alongside the IAT sensor mod otherwise it will confuse the ECU in terms of gas usage and wether or not the cats are working correctly.

Put it all together, and you got my truck that im not afriad to race; and its normally aspirated. And sounds fucking nice with the glasspack on a shortned exhaust (sounds like a mean v8 racing on the highway).


Im also going to be redoing the exhaust soon to expand the diameter to 2.5in all the way (the 45 angle peice is a 2 1/4 o.d.).
The exhaust was hanging a little in the picture because it was before I re-hung it to be more supported - the tip is a little heavy and theres nothing to hang on on the truck bed; I have it hanging on the frame with a heavy-duty exhaust hanger now.
this is the funniest piece of BS I have ever read. i dont even know where to start. But let me give you a pro race tip, NOS stickers add 5rwhp
__________________
2006 Fx4 Level 2 with a 5spd.
  #13  
Old 07-05-2011, 06:06 PM
Liking the Ford Ranger Forum
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 25
Default Re: 3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS

Stock gears; already been talking to the trans mechanic at my job on how to regear the trans, and im thinking of changing out the rear diff (slip diff it has right now as far as i know, so I cant even spin my tires *sadface*).

And yea, its just another one of my hobbies now ontop of programming (marneusscripts.com) which im getting experience with aftermarket upgrades and engine work which is always a plus (starting a used car repair buissness end of this year, and plan on doing a ls7 v8 conversion to a 90/91 miata with twin turbos + other performance stuff; itll be my track/toy/car show car).

^ and lol with the stickers, i totally agree. stickers are just stupid.
"hey gues wat mang, i aded to me car a honda/nissan/nos/__insert here__ sticker; now I has 500hp! "

And if you serious about thinking its BS, come by montgomery village, md. I work at criswell chevy/performance cars. Im the only person in the area with a black 2005 ford ranger edge 3.0l v6, ontop with the mods I have on it, and lets go have fun doing some races on great seneca highway
__________________
2005 Ford Ranger EDGE 3.0L V6
- Cherry Bomb Glasspack + 15.5" SLP Tip - Custom CAI - IAT Performance Chip - O2 Performance Modules - JET Performance Tuning (Soon) - Shortned exhaust (side exiting, before rear wheel) -
All done by myself; oh yes Test&Tune 1/4mi Times coming soon!

Last edited by Marneus901; 07-05-2011 at 06:09 PM.
  #14  
Old 07-05-2011, 06:06 PM
Almost ******
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 7,482
Default Re: 3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS

PLEASE show me how to make 400 hp out of a 3.0 easily, like you claim, and without boost while still in your price range of 1-2k. i will honestly eat a hamburger with my own hair on it.
__________________
Why does everyone think prerunners just jump stuff?


Please click HERE to watch this video!
  #15  
Old 07-05-2011, 06:12 PM
Ford Ranger Driver
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 589
Default Re: 3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS

bro, you just need 02 sensor chip mods! I mean, i must be losing hp in my trans am because i removed the after cat sensors, good thing I read this! I should also add high performance oil, easy 15hp right there I bet. Let's also not forget that IAT sensor, totally upped that 3.0's compression!

lolol
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2006 Fx4 Level 2 with a 5spd.
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