3.0l V6 ENGINE MODS - Page 2

Marneus901 · #16 07-05-2011, 07:10 PM

doyouquax - lookup tom morana v6 racing.
He has camshafts, roller rockers, heads, pistons, springs, headers, ect for around $1600. Do the labor yourself, and look HEY I SPENT LESS THAN 2k$!
So thanks for your concern.

But matt, quit being so stubborn.
Performance oil; oil is higher quality to keep my engine cleaner and less sluggy (oil doesnt get as sluggy and thick towards the time for an oil change) - less sluggy means better responsiveness.
Same with the trans fliud, and diff fluid.
If the parts cant move as they should with as little resistance as possible, it will PERFORM BETTER.
Judging by your attitude, im sure you havent replaced your air filter, done a trans or diff service, or coolant flush, for quite awhile. I would make bank off your vehicle at my job with a 27 point inspection; and would declare it unsafe to drive.

I never said that you have to have 02 sensor mods. If you knew what the 02 sensors do, you would know that they help modify the air/fuel mix ratio based on the gas fumes by sending signals to the ECU. You put the 02 sensor mods on the post not pre sensors because you want the engine to have more fuel to be combusted. With more fuel, you have a more rich ratio, having a CAI evens that mixture back to stoich by having more air being taken in by more flowing filter. Ontop of that, the IAT sensor mod modifies the signal to the ECU to send more fuel when needed as the throttle is opened, further helping the air/fuel mixture more stoich. The sensor mods also smooths out the powerband so you have a wider range of more power. Lean = not enough power because not as good combustion. Rich = lots of power, but bad gas milage. Stoich is the level you want for best power + effeciency.

Reason why I suggest a more flowing exhaust alongside a CAI is because, why take in more air/fuel if you cannot expel it just as quick? It would be like stuffing a kid full of food and trying to have him keep eating without taking a shit. Hence why normally a CAI alone is useless. Why have a more flowing exhaust when your not taking in more air/fuel? You would be starving your engine.

And ontop of that; you obviously have absolutely no idea what your talking about because your just talking trash with no sense of experience or research as you also have no sense of vocabulary towards aftermarket upgrades or engine parts. Try DISproving my points instead of just trying to be a bully and put them down. I know that my mods are working nicely in conjunction together and thats all that matters; its my truck.

Before you say anything else; read up on the stoich ratio for air/fuel and this other stuff.
Exhaust - Advantages of having a more flowing exhaust, and still have good backpressure.
Intake - Advantages of having a better air flow into the engine - you cant say shit to this because look @ forced induction.
Sensor mods - Also learn about the air/fuel ratio mapping - not every car comes stock with a smooth fuel mapping.

Each mod enhances another mod, making the upgrade, a little more upgraded.

And besides, once im done with everything, ill be getting it dyno'ed along with 1/4mi times just to prove you all as idiots.

matt224 · #17 07-05-2011, 07:14 PM

i'm glad I know where you work, so I can never go there.

Marneus901 · #18 07-05-2011, 10:47 PM

^ my point exactly
you cant disprove anything I said to say it doesnt work.

doyouquaxu · #19 07-05-2011, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marneus901

doyouquax - lookup tom morana v6 racing.
He has camshafts, roller rockers, heads, pistons, springs, headers, ect for around $1600. Do the labor yourself, and look HEY I SPENT LESS THAN 2k$!
So thanks for your concern.

if you think that will give you 400hp, HAHAHAHA

check this thread out
http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/truck-talk/110883.htm

and this post, especially the bold part. i would take mcdirt's credibility after years of working on different engines in motorsports

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcdirt@1s1k

im just curious as hell to know what kind of port job and so called bad ass valves he has. i want to see this on a dyno not the sheet. i want to see the run and i want to see it a week later.

the stock heads will not last longer then 10,000 miles with even a mild port of 15cc intake runner gain and 9cc gain of exhaust. and the alabama heads that are much thicker casting can only hold a 24cc intake runner gain and a slightly better exhaust runner gain of 17cc.

ask me how many heads i cracked to find that shit out.

3.0 is a joke from hell. with out all one off fabed parts you can not 500rwhp out of a n/a 3.0. and i know for a fact it cost 4,700 bucks just to get 220-250 hp out of a 3.3 stroker motor with all one off shit.

like i said from my huge ball of fail, and many others alike, untill i see this 275 pound block of plutonium on the dyno im calling bull shit.

Marneus901 · #20 07-06-2011, 12:14 AM

500hp I even agree that is abit out there, but 400 is more realistic with the mods I listed, that of which im sure no one has done all I listed on the same engine the same way, so no one really knows. Past that I can agree that the weight and the displacement and the fact its only a 6 cylinder will limit how much power you can get.

But I still think 400hp is very realistic, and thats all I really want maximum anyways as a daily driver and to beat a ricer here and there - im not going to the drag stip as in pro or anything - just a test & tune night. I would be fine with 300 but I feel that is also too easy; but we will see

Also, its a pretty new engine. Newer engines use more computer calculations (EFI vs carb) compared to drag cars and 500+hp engines, and can also produce very nice results. Look up dagger gt; 2500hp car - only v8 twin turbo amonst others. If you want to be the fastest car on earth like they claim, why not use a v12 twin turbo with a blower or supercharger ontop of that, with performance engine internals?

CUTiger · #21 07-06-2011, 02:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by matt224

this is the funniest piece of BS I have ever read. i dont even know where to start. But let me give you a pro race tip, NOS stickers add 5rwhp

agreed...this guy has a rude awakening ahead. If i were that easy to make 400 hp out of a NON BOOSTED 3.0 we'd all be doing it.

I'd like to see video of your truck beating those cars...I don't believe it.

And whats up with that exhaust, it looks like the tip sticks out a foot from the side.

MadMike · #22 07-06-2011, 03:40 AM

Sounds like someone reads to many magazines I bet if you put some Crome on that 3.0L you'll add an extra 100hp disperses the heat faster lol you guys are wasting your time this guy lives in a dream world considering the ford 6.0L that's in the new raptor make 400hp that's a V8 with twice the displacement and even if you did get your V6 3.0L up to 400+ HP it would last about a weekend and blow apart. CHEERS

Marneus901 · #23 07-06-2011, 06:18 AM

lol. ok. ill post dyno times when I get the stuff done.

doyouquaxu · #24 07-06-2011, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marneus901

500hp I even agree that is abit out there, but 400 is more realistic with the mods I listed, that of which im sure no one has done all I listed on the same engine the same way, so no one really knows. Past that I can agree that the weight and the displacement and the fact its only a 6 cylinder will limit how much power you can get.

But I still think 400hp is very realistic, and thats all I really want maximum anyways as a daily driver and to beat a ricer here and there - im not going to the drag stip as in pro or anything - just a test & tune night. I would be fine with 300 but I feel that is also too easy; but we will see

Also, its a pretty new engine. Newer engines use more computer calculations (EFI vs carb) compared to drag cars and 500+hp engines, and can also produce very nice results. Look up dagger gt; 2500hp car - only v8 twin turbo amonst others. If you want to be the fastest car on earth like they claim, why not use a v12 twin turbo with a blower or supercharger ontop of that, with performance engine internals?

yeah, read the quote. he put a stroker kit in his ranger, and only got it up to about mid 200hp. there is NO way you can get bolt on parts from morana to get you another 150hp. and go check out the price of a 3.3 stroker kit from morana, it's $2500 CAD and includes:

Cast Steel Crank
Eagle Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods
Diamond Forged Pistons
Total Seal Performance Piston Rings
Clevite or SpeedPro Bearings

Straight off the website, that will ONLY get you 30HP if that.

1.8:1 Roller Rockers are $400 CAD
Camshaft $275 CAD
Heads start at $400 CAD
Studs $270 CAD
Spring Kit $320 CAD
Upper/Lower Intakes $175/$225 CAD
Morana Cap Stud Girdle $175 CAD
Throttle Body $180 CAD
Total = 2060 CAD w/out tax, shipping, other fees
$2132.51 USD approximately w/out tax, shipping, other fees.

Sure, you can throw 2,000 at it and think you're cool.... but there is no freaking way that those parts YOU want to do can get you 400 hp when a stroker kit only gains 30 hp.

S13minus1 · #25 07-06-2011, 10:08 AM

hahahahahahahahha

omfg this thread rocks

Marneus901 · #26 07-06-2011, 01:28 PM

But you also forget, that ALOT of engine power is held back by the ECU. Changing just the air/fuel mapping and changing a few ratios and shift points can release impressive results.

Aftermarket engine upgrades isnt always mechanical; especially in modern day engines. Alot has to do with electrical or the computer - as the ECU/computer is what controls the mechanical side in the end anyways. And most good mechanics are NOT good computer people (and vice-versa); I happen to be an experienced programmer and AI developer. The computer side of an engine ALWAYS has room to release a little more beast from itself. Thats also why alot of aftermarket companies and performance companies are looking for programmers that also know the mechanical side to be able to make upgrades more useful (mainly to reprogram the ECU).

I never gave ANY numbers or statistics; all I said was my truck keeps up with the c230 benz kompressor and I happen to beat a mazda 3 turbo the other night, and that my GOAL is 400. Yes, I know I wont make that much, but its a GOAL. I KNOW I can get 300+ out of the 3.0l, and when I do, trust me, dyno's + times along with a mod list will be posted.

If you still have crap to say, I really dont give a dam. No one has said ANYTHING in regards to WHY the mods dont work or WHY my reasoning isnt TRUE. But I NEVER gave hp gains or statstics to my mods - I dont even know what my truck has in terms or torque/hp.

brinker88 · #27 07-06-2011, 01:30 PM

best 3.0 Mod is a 4.0L swap!! lol

doyouquaxu · #28 07-06-2011, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marneus901

I happen to be an experienced programmer and AI developer.

OH SNAP! watch out for this guy! I happen to be a cunning linguist and master debater.

Quote:

If you still have crap to say, I really dont give a dam. No one has said ANYTHING in regards to WHY the mods dont work or WHY my reasoning isnt TRUE. But I NEVER gave hp gains or statstics to my mods - I dont even know what my truck has in terms or torque/hp.

Consider this a freebie: the 3.0 was not designed to be an engine that can be modified with bolt on (or ECU) performance enhancers. it was designed as a work horse, something that produced enough power to get the job done. There's a reason why morana is the only company making any sort of performance enhancers for these engines, and the companies that did make supercharger kits stopped producing them. Anyone who realistically wants to make decent power numbers as well as not have the engine blow itself to bits puts in a different engine.

Marneus901 · #29 07-06-2011, 08:11 PM

Im NOT enhancing it to be a RACING engine. Im just doing some mods to have abit more horsepower that I am comfertable with as well as having great gas mileage. Show me a 3.0l ranger that gets 25mpg city.

doyouquaxu · #30 07-06-2011, 08:18 PM

it's not going to be your ranger that you want to get 400 horsepower out of, that's a fact.