After watching an episode of two guys garage, doing a tune up on a Vette, I want to do the same for my ranger to help get it running smoother and pick up some MPG's maybe.

On my list is a Davis Unified Screamin Demon Coil Pack, new motorcraft plugs, new o2 sensors, and a fuel system clean up, along with spark wires.

Davis Unified has these 10mm wires here, but they are $99.00. JBA are only 8mm wires. Im not sure if these will give considerable performance.. so whats your thoughts or experience.

linky: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DUI-C1009-0103BL/

They do seem to have a high quality wrap though, so Id assume a long life. but are they worth 30 more than JBA, which I atleast want to get better than stock replacement.

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2002 Ranger XLT 3.0
General Grabber AT2 31/10.5/15, 15x7 ATX Slot, Hot girlfriend for passenger seat, Fabtech 2.5", Bilstein 5100, Poly Bumps, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Straigh pipe, Throttle Cable Mod, Air Box Mod, 5 Angle Valve Job, 180* Thermostat, Clear corners w/ Amber LEDs, Tinted Tails, 6000K Volt Digital HID Hi/Lo, K&N Drop-In, MAF Mod,

You will not gain performance, MPG, HP, TQ, or any other abbreviated value by putting in "performance spark plug wires" or a "performance coil pack. Absolute waste of money on a stock motor. You should get whatever standard wires you can pickup for a good price from an auto parts store. And the coil pack, leave it alone, it is fine. Of course the TV show recommended them... Davis Unified paid them to recommend those products. If someone paid them to endorse taking a crap in the intake manifold, they would squat over it and squeeze.

Motorcraft or Autolite brand plugs only, which you already stated so that's good. There really is no such thing as a "performance spark plug" in a stock motor. Other brands and styles fail, sometimes catastrophically. No logic behind the failure, the motors just hate them.

O2 sensors from what I recall are not cheap and not something you just randomly replace for no reason. You don't replace those unless they're malfunctioning. Save your money.

For fuel system cleaning, Techron is the generally accepted top dog when it comes to actually doing something. There is a LOT of snake oil useless crap out there on the shelves. A Seafoam treatment could help too.

Some things you can do that are free almost free:
- Replace a dirty air filter
- Clean MAF with MAF cleaner
- Clean throttle body and IAC with carb cleaner (take both off to do this)
- Replace fuel filter if it is more than 5 years old
- Replace PCV valve if it is old
- Make sure the engine is reaching operating temperature (gauge in the middle)

__________________
(Formerly)
FireRanger
2003 Edge 4.0 4wd

How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: 300+ intake threads here on FRF
Info: HID Projectors
How To: NO HEAT Troubleshooting Guide

I agree with Matt, unless you've got forced induction the upgraded ignition is really unnecessary especially with anything over an 8mm wire. Unless you are noticing symptoms of a weak or nonexistent spark on random cylinders I would leave the coil pack alone.

New plugs and some seafoam is a great idea though. Also check the grommet and hose for the PCV valve as well. They had a tendency to crack and leak oil all over the place.

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2003 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0L Flexfuel V6

Underdrive crank pulley
15x8 Procomp Xtreme Alloy 7069
31x10.5x15 Dick Cepek Radial FC II
Cherry Bomb Extreme

MUCH AGREED!! DON'T SPEND YOUR MONEY ON ALL THAT PERFORMANCE CRAP!!!! it will get you no where.. that kind of stuff is really only for engines that have been like heavily modified from the inside out or like crate engines...

best thing you can do it always replace with oem brand replacement parts..

if it works...dont fix it...its just a waste of money and in the process of replacing it you may actually end up braking something else... This rule is for things like coilpacks and o2 sensors...

now when it comes to things like air filters, spark plugs, oil filters, fuel filters, then its understandable to replace them. Those are usual tune up things that have to be replaced after certain periods of time..and remember ...always use OEM

AND LAST!
if your going to be adding any cleaning additives..SEAFOAM!! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!! you will notice a difference trust me...but if you do decide to use this..make sure you change your spark plugs AFTER!!! and not before..because this does fowl them a bit...so just let the old ones take the beating...

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2003 3.0L Flex 2WD
K&N drop in filter with Air box Mod.
235/75/15 bfg r t/a sports.

http://www.ranger forums .com/showthread.php?t=40446
"The brass terminals of these coils are more conductive than stock aluminum and resist corrosion longer, too."

Those are premium wires. A lot of R&D has gone into that product. They are better than stock or OEM.
The factory installed parts that work and last a reasonable amount of time. Your wires work and that may be OK with some of these guys. Chances are that they are made of the same materials using the same construction as any other wire that has been made for 15 to 45 years.
For a little bit more money, why not install a premium product and enjoy the benefits?

"MUCH AGREED!! DON'T SPEND YOUR MONEY ON ALL THAT PERFORMANCE CRAP!!!! it will get you no where.. that kind of stuff is really only for engines that have been like heavily modified from the inside out or like crate engines..."
You have no idea what you are talking about.

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2006 4.0 5 spd auto 4x4 Super Cab
BF Goodrich Commercial Traction T/A's
Royal Purple Throughout
Alpine Head Unit with some Infinity Noisy Stuff
NW Oregon

What benefits? A lighter wallet does not increase performance.

__________________
(Formerly)
FireRanger
2003 Edge 4.0 4wd

How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: 300+ intake threads here on FRF
Info: HID Projectors
How To: NO HEAT Troubleshooting Guide

They didnt recommend them on the show, they just replaced them with OEM parts because one wire wasnt working.

I dont want power, I just want something that is quality, looks good, and maybe is better/ more efficient.

I have already replaced the fuel filter PVC, put in a K&N, clean my MAF every oil change, has a new IAC, new water pump, etc. I did seafoam and it didnt notice much difference besides that for a few months (finally stopped) when id shut the truck down it would make a wierd chirping noise for a few minutes. I have not changed the plugs after seafoaming...... maybe I should do that.

I was looking at the Davis Screaming demon coil because its cheaper than motorcraft and claims you can gap you plugs more and get a hotter spark. My coil and wires are pretty old, and I think anything new would be an improvement.. People have reported a smoother running engine.

As for o2 sensors, according to the show I was watching, showed frequency graphs of the old sensors and new, that over time they lose their ability to react as fast creating a wider band, therefore losing efficiancy. That is why I want to look into those, but not a priority.

I think my cam shaft synchronizer is going, im hearing a chirping and my oil pressure seems to have a one second delay before it pops up to the middle when I start the truck (put a new sending unit last winter). I havent confirmed that is the issue, but i think so.

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2002 Ranger XLT 3.0
General Grabber AT2 31/10.5/15, 15x7 ATX Slot, Hot girlfriend for passenger seat, Fabtech 2.5", Bilstein 5100, Poly Bumps, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Straigh pipe, Throttle Cable Mod, Air Box Mod, 5 Angle Valve Job, 180* Thermostat, Clear corners w/ Amber LEDs, Tinted Tails, 6000K Volt Digital HID Hi/Lo, K&N Drop-In, MAF Mod,

As for the wires, idk, but for the coil pack there are some pretty solid reviews claiming at least a much smoother idle and great quailty.

http://www.ranger forums .com/showthread.php?t=40446

I also found a website that offers a combined discount - called a fire power kit. You get the 10mm wires and the coil for $180.. thats $20 off buying them seperate. Sure its not cheap, but it cant hurt anything and there is some room for improvment.

http://www.performancedistributors.com/fordtruckv6.htm

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2002 Ranger XLT 3.0
General Grabber AT2 31/10.5/15, 15x7 ATX Slot, Hot girlfriend for passenger seat, Fabtech 2.5", Bilstein 5100, Poly Bumps, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Straigh pipe, Throttle Cable Mod, Air Box Mod, 5 Angle Valve Job, 180* Thermostat, Clear corners w/ Amber LEDs, Tinted Tails, 6000K Volt Digital HID Hi/Lo, K&N Drop-In, MAF Mod,

I noticed no change with the Screaming Demon Colil pack, but my old one had cracks in it and everytime it would rain or something water would get in and the truck wouldn't start (what the shop told me). Had it towed to a shop and it sat for a little bit and when they got to it, she started fine so it made sense. Insted of the Autozone/Advanced brands I ordered this from Summit, along with Motorcraft plat. plugs and wires. No improved anything as far as gains or MPG's but the truck starts when it rains now, and I'm happy, and it makes me feel good having it. lol


~Its deff a high quality part. Its a solid mofo. haha

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1997 Ranger XLT
4.0 4X4 Lotta Mods.

2001 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor. 4.6 V8

John Griggs is the Particle Sun of ranger geeks. I trust his review for exactly what it says, which seems to be "a little improvement" but not really anything quantifiable over a stock setup. So I'd say it is probably not worth the expense unless you need to replace the coilpack anyway or have other engine mods to require added ignition power. Though it isn't really that expensive either so you're only out $100 and it certainly won't hurt. They're clearly a good quality product regardless, unlike some other "common mods" that just make things worse and cost more. I miss John, I don't know where he drifted off too.

The wires, really, total waste of money remains my opinion. I'm not trying to be a frugal penny pincher either. I've just always felt stuff like that is no different than pouring in bottles of octane booster thinking it will make you go faster.

__________________
(Formerly)
FireRanger
2003 Edge 4.0 4wd

How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: 300+ intake threads here on FRF
Info: HID Projectors
How To: NO HEAT Troubleshooting Guide

LOL - 2nd paragraph;last sentence.... I had a buddy back in the early 80's who would put super unleaded in his '68 Pontiac Tempest (engine needed leaded gasoline) and would swear he could hear engine run better and could feel the power difference and made his car go faster.....

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2005 Edge; 3.0; AT
Mods: Electric Flex a lite; 180 Black Magic Xtreme

True, again, Im not looking for power or noticable gains, but I know my stuff is getting old and could use a revamp anyways, I like to replace the major componenets in a group (wires coil plugs, for example). I was looking for just this, if there was anything better about them, which seems negligable. I like colored wires so I had always wanted the JBA, but since I found the combo deal, they Davis 10mm livewire with the coil pack are about the same price as JBA with the coil pack seperate. They look pretty quality too. Cant hurt, and I have my new headers going on soon and not sure how they will interfer with plug wires, but something with a good coating is just more assurance.

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2002 Ranger XLT 3.0
General Grabber AT2 31/10.5/15, 15x7 ATX Slot, Hot girlfriend for passenger seat, Fabtech 2.5", Bilstein 5100, Poly Bumps, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Straigh pipe, Throttle Cable Mod, Air Box Mod, 5 Angle Valve Job, 180* Thermostat, Clear corners w/ Amber LEDs, Tinted Tails, 6000K Volt Digital HID Hi/Lo, K&N Drop-In, MAF Mod,

Electric fan! Free up power on your exsisting engine. Underdrive pulley, but your going to lose voltage on your alt.

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99 extended cab, 4.0, auto, 33s, 4x4 lifted with some stuff done

98 2wd 2.5, 5 speed, dropped with some stuff done

E-fan is definately in the plan! Im so sick of just the sound of the clutch fan... plus after dealing with it to put a water pump in, I really never wanna see it again. I wish I had the cash and time for the fan when I did the pump cuz itwas already out. Underdrive pulleys are something ive looked at but they are $$$ too. Im probably going to be getting my rear shocks and leafs in order and some small aesthetic things before i dive into these wires and stuff.

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2002 Ranger XLT 3.0
General Grabber AT2 31/10.5/15, 15x7 ATX Slot, Hot girlfriend for passenger seat, Fabtech 2.5", Bilstein 5100, Poly Bumps, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Straigh pipe, Throttle Cable Mod, Air Box Mod, 5 Angle Valve Job, 180* Thermostat, Clear corners w/ Amber LEDs, Tinted Tails, 6000K Volt Digital HID Hi/Lo, K&N Drop-In, MAF Mod,

Not sure what you're trying to say but that's not a factor. Voltage remains constant until the load exceeds the amperage rating of the alternator. If you have a 90 amp alternator, you can run 90 amps worth of electrical devices (including everything the truck came with). Beyond that point, the battery has to make up the difference and voltage will start to drop. Installing an electric fan is very much within the capabilities of all of our stock alternators to handle.

Now, adding an additional electrical load will add an additional mechanical load on the alternator's pulley so it will add a bit to the engine's load. however, the added alternator load on the engine is much less than the load of the OEM mechanical fan.

And even better, if you set the temperature at which the fan turns on/off to be about 15 degrees above normal operating temperature, the thing will never even need to run unless you're going very very slow or sitting idle. Air through the grill while you're moving is more than enough to provide adequate cooling without the fan running. So you'll always have the power and economy gains. Also, it will always run while the AC is on.

__________________
(Formerly)
FireRanger
2003 Edge 4.0 4wd

How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: 300+ intake threads here on FRF
Info: HID Projectors
How To: NO HEAT Troubleshooting Guide