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  #16  
Old 09-10-2009, 07:37 PM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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yea what is what?
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  #17  
Old 09-10-2009, 07:41 PM
olfordtruck olfordtruck is offline
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I think he meant your stage 3 thing. You have that list with all the stage classifications?
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MAC Performance Ram Air Intake
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  #18  
Old 09-11-2009, 12:20 AM
Bear Bear is offline
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What exactlyis a stage 3 build?
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  #19  
Old 09-11-2009, 06:05 AM
Psychopete Psychopete is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear View Post
What exactlyis a stage 3 build?
It's a pre-determined list of parts, like different levels per se. Stage 3 is pretty aggressive. It can include modifications, different parts, and more boost depending on what engine/mfr/etc.

I've always just thought about what parts would work well for the application of the vehicle. Any modification anywhere usually requires another modification somewhere else to get the full benefit of the modifications themselves. Eg, only putting a lopey high duration camshaft in a bone stock motor wouldn't be that great of an idea.

You can also run into driveability problems trying to use "drag" parts when the engine and truck will only see the street. I bought a 327 to drop in a Grand Prix I had with a blown engine and it had bad flowing heads, single plane Victor Jr. intake and a lunatic cam with a lot of lift and duration and it had no power brakes at idle (no vacuum). Really had to wind it out to get it moving, but regardless was a lot of fun. But I ended up selling the car.

My 5.0L has a B303 cam (not extreme lift, but a bit of duration), but also dual valve springs and GT40 heads with a dual plane high rise intake, 600cfm carb, and headers to compliment. Had I used the stock E6SE heads and valve springs, I would have built a real turd because the heads would have been the restricting everything else. I consider it a street build, that's all that it will really see. Has low end torque, good vacuum, and overall I have been happy with it for the 28 miles I've driven it so far. It's also very smooth, I paid the extra money to have the pistons weighed and crank balanced.

Pete
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  #20  
Old 09-11-2009, 07:27 PM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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Psyco is is prettymuch right on.
Think about it like this
High performance wires and plugs= Stage 1
Hotter coil pack= Stage 2
Tuned ECU, or Chip, to modify for these upgrades= Stage 3
Beyond this is where you get into what he was mentioning about needing other upgrades to run it properly, otherwise it will be a waste of money, or worse a counter-productive addition.
Each facet of your vehicle has a Stage level.
The Clutch is a part commonly referred to by a stage level,
Stock replacement upgrade, Stage 1
Re-enforced spring, higher friction pad, Stage 2
Re-enforced, higher spring rates, higher rate pressure plate and throw bearing, Stage 3
Cams are another thing commonly referred to by stage level.
You want to take full advantage of each upgrade level before moving beyond it. For instance you don't want to take a stock truck and throw shiney super HP rated headers on there as it will be counter-productive. The motor is tuned to run within specific parameters, as in specific manifold pressures, specific back pressures, and so on. It would also be counter-productive and an entire waste of money to put stage 3 cams on a stock motor it will put you in a bad place, real bad. If you have the restrictive* stock intake and the restrictive* stock exhaust and the stock fuel map with the stock timing curve, then stage 3 cams will not only be counter productive, they could seriously damage the motor. If you want to build a motor start at the begining, intake, then ignition, then fuel, then exhaust. Alot of people think what can I do for fuel upgrades, when it is the simplest and most obvious upgrade that anyone who has ever filled up a vehicle should be able to tell you. Your vehicle's motor has been built to and programmed to run within specific parameters, the most basic of fuel prameters is 87octane, unless some still has 85 avail? (high altitude?) Never the less, if you start upgrading the parameters then you would need to run a higher octane fuel to effectively use them. I hope this has made it a little clearer.

Here's a quiz for you, say someone built his/her "manual"(clue) Ranger's engine to twice it's stock HP, what other part might they need/want to upgrade?

* applies to the specs for the cams.

Last edited by 02'4.04x4; 09-11-2009 at 10:12 PM.
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  #21  
Old 09-11-2009, 08:06 PM
Bear Bear is offline
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I have NO clue. Haha. I didn't even know what a Stage 3 build was.
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  #22  
Old 09-11-2009, 08:52 PM
olfordtruck olfordtruck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02'4.04x4 View Post
Psyco is is prettymuch right on.
Think about it like this
High performance wires and plugs= Stage 1
Hotter coil pack= Stage 2
Tuned ECU, or Chip, to modify for these upgrades= Stage 3
Beyond this is where you get into what he was mentioning about needing other upgrades to run it properly, otherwise it will be a waste of money, or worse a counter-productive addition.
Each facet of your vehicle has a Stage level.
The Clutch is a part commonly referred to by a stage level,
Stock replacement upgrade, Stage 1
Re-enforced spring, higher friction pad, Stage 2
Re-enforced, higher spring rates, higher rate pressure plate and throw bearing, Stage 3
Cams are another thing commonly referred to by stage level.
You want to take full advantage of each upgrade level before moving beyond it. For instance you don't want to take a stock truck and throw shiney super HP rated headers on there as it will be counter-productive. The motor is tuned to run within specific parameters, as in specific manifold pressures, specific back pressures, and so on. It would also be counter-productive and an entire waste of money to put stage 3 cams on a stock motor it will put you in a bad place, real bad. If you have the restrictive* stock intake and the restrictive* stock exhaust and the stock fuel map with the stock timing curve, then stage 3 cams will not only be counter productive, they could seriously damage the motor. If you want to build a motor start at the begining, intake, then ignition, then fuel, then exhaust. Alot of people think what can I do for fuel upgrades, when it is the simplest and most obvious upgrade that anyone who has ever filled up a vehicle should be able to tell you. Your vehicle's motor has been built to and programmed to run within specific parameters, the most basic of fuel prameters is 87octane, unless some still has 85 avail? (high altitude?) Never the less, if you start upgrading the parameters then you would need to run a higher octane fuel to effectively use them. I hope this has made it a little clearer.

Here's a quiz for you, say someone built his/her manual Ranger's engine to twice it's stock HP, what other part might they need/want to upgrade?

* applies to the specs for the cams.
The heads! Roller rockers and everything! Did i get it? Do i win a new 302??!! haha
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2003 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0L Vulcan Auto Tranny
MAC Performance Ram Air Intake
Flowmaster Super 44 w/ tailpipe before the wheel
Interior and Exterior LED w/ music interface
Ford Racing front and rear Sway Bars
Limited Slip with 4.10 gears


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3114321
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  #23  
Old 09-11-2009, 08:55 PM
Bear Bear is offline
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[Quote]. DIDN'T.
Past Tense
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  #24  
Old 09-11-2009, 10:07 PM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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Hmmm, well no winner's yet. Let's see if someone can catch the clue.
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  #25  
Old 09-12-2009, 05:06 AM
olfordtruck olfordtruck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02'4.04x4 View Post
Hmmm, well no winner's yet. Let's see if someone can catch the clue.
The clue is the tranny then, upgrade the clutch and friction plate.
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2003 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0L Vulcan Auto Tranny
MAC Performance Ram Air Intake
Flowmaster Super 44 w/ tailpipe before the wheel
Interior and Exterior LED w/ music interface
Ford Racing front and rear Sway Bars
Limited Slip with 4.10 gears


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3114321
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  #26  
Old 09-12-2009, 05:19 AM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olfordtruck View Post
The clue is the tranny then, upgrade the clutch and friction plate.
Yes Sir. That would be it. It is a perfect example of needing to balance the build, don't over build one part and not the supporting area.
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  #27  
Old 09-12-2009, 09:28 AM
olfordtruck olfordtruck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02'4.04x4 View Post
Yes Sir. That would be it. It is a perfect example of needing to balance the build, don't over build one part and not the supporting area.
Ive got an auto and the ranger auto trannys arent that great. It jolts going into 2nd gear. About the only thing you can do for the auto tranny is replace the berings and get the tuner to let if shift smoother. Any clue where you can order those berings?
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2003 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0L Vulcan Auto Tranny
MAC Performance Ram Air Intake
Flowmaster Super 44 w/ tailpipe before the wheel
Interior and Exterior LED w/ music interface
Ford Racing front and rear Sway Bars
Limited Slip with 4.10 gears


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3114321
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  #28  
Old 09-12-2009, 10:49 AM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olfordtruck View Post
Ive got an auto and the ranger auto trannys arent that great. It jolts going into 2nd gear. About the only thing you can do for the auto tranny is replace the berings and get the tuner to let if shift smoother. Any clue where you can order those berings?
I would be the first to get them if I did. With Just the stage 2-3 build inplace it is quite a bit more pronounced. I will talk at some friends of mine and see what they say I am sure it is doable but, Tranny's aren't my thing.
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  #29  
Old 09-14-2009, 08:37 AM
Rafe Rafe is offline
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Check with B&M. I'm positive they offer a shift-kit for the rangers. Actually a few of them if I remember right, as well as a B&M Brand Torque Converter.

I'm looking into buy JBA Powercables and thinking about the Screamin' Demon. Though I'm at a loss on where to find fuel upgrades. I use 89Oct all the time except when I use 93 to help burn out the carbon with additives. Usually once every three months or so. I'm sure the filter would be the easiest to replace, not sure if the fuel pump still lies inside the tank.. I hate those. Any suggestions?
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  #30  
Old 09-14-2009, 06:16 PM
98blownranger 98blownranger is offline
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maybe I am missing something but plugs wires coil pack and a tuner is not a stage 3 build not even a stage 2. what about valves cam heads rockers along with all the bolt ons. my truck must be a stage 26 if that is the case..???
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98blown you should be an MD! that's the same stuff my doc asks and ur spot on man!!!
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