Ok, so I am having some type of problem with my cooling system. Here is the run down.

Not to long ago I had a valve spring break- I had the heads millled, got a valve job (5 angles ), all new gaskets on the upper half of engine, at the same time I had a new radiator put in (previous had a leak), a new water pump (previous was screaching here and there), I put a new 180* thermostat, and also a new Goodyear Gator Belt. (I forgot to get a new radiator cap at this point)

So the truck ran great, and still does. I started noticing my gas pedal getting super stiff mid throttle. I popped the hood to see my upper radiator hose collapsed and the plastic guard was under the throttle linkage, blocking it. However, I experienced NO overheating problems. It was actually running slightly cool..

Before I got a new radiator cap, and a new upper hose, I also notice a light pale green/grey gummy substance. It seems to line the edges of the resevoir and there was alot in the filler neck and around the cap... what could be causing this!!

So I replaced the hose and cap, hoping its solved.. and Id just go get it flushed. NOPE.. (nothings that easy.. right?) Popped the hood the other day and the brand new hose was collapsed..

Still, experienced no overheating, even in the slightest..

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

maybe my cap is bad? Truck runs good, so head gaskets arent leaking, idkkk.. baffled.

Thanks

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2002 Ranger XLT 3.0
General Grabber AT2 31/10.5/15, 15x7 ATX Slot, Hot girlfriend for passenger seat, Fabtech 2.5", Bilstein 5100, Poly Bumps, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Straigh pipe, Throttle Cable Mod, Air Box Mod, 5 Angle Valve Job, 180* Thermostat, Clear corners w/ Amber LEDs, Tinted Tails, 6000K Volt Digital HID Hi/Lo, K&N Drop-In, MAF Mod,

What motor do you have? Check this out....and scroll down to the last post http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-...ator-hose.html and here also.... http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...r%20hose&dds=1 Can't see but I think you did get a new rad cap? Make sure the rad is full and there is coolant in the overflow/recovery tank. Bleeding air out is easy but may be not the same for all motors? I have the factory manuals for mine (2002)...for the 3 and 4 Liter V-6's..you set temp to max heat and blower to max..position the control to discharge air from the A/C vents to the instrument panel...let the motor idle until hot air is coming out. Shut the motor off and allow to cool..add coolant to the overflow tank if necessary. For the 2.3 4cylinder (2002)..it is quite more complicated.

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JBA s.s. headers&exhaust, K&N cold air intake, Bosch Iridium Plus 4 plugs, Royal Purple in motor, 5spd & diff.,Superchips programmer, axle girdle. Also have but yet to install KYB Gas-A-Just shocks and Belltech sway bars.

well if its collapsing it is being "sucked" flat. Did you have some kind of high output water pump put on...? Maybe try a hose with the coil spring inside of it.

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3.0

Ok Ill check it out

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No, Im pretty sure its just a normal aftermarket waterpump.

Know where I could find one?

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2002 Ranger XLT 3.0
General Grabber AT2 31/10.5/15, 15x7 ATX Slot, Hot girlfriend for passenger seat, Fabtech 2.5", Bilstein 5100, Poly Bumps, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Straigh pipe, Throttle Cable Mod, Air Box Mod, 5 Angle Valve Job, 180* Thermostat, Clear corners w/ Amber LEDs, Tinted Tails, 6000K Volt Digital HID Hi/Lo, K&N Drop-In, MAF Mod,

The lower ones have the coil spring inside..the upper doesn't...this is typical of most vehicles. The stainless hoses from Summit will cure it while dressing up your motor. So you can follow the simple bleeding I posted above since you have a 3.0 V-6. Here is another choice of hose... http://www.mishimoto.com/universal-a...hose-kits.html And here is contact info.. http://www.mishimoto.com/contact.html for Mishimoto...Summit has a Toll free number. Either should be able to help you choose the right size.

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JBA s.s. headers&exhaust, K&N cold air intake, Bosch Iridium Plus 4 plugs, Royal Purple in motor, 5spd & diff.,Superchips programmer, axle girdle. Also have but yet to install KYB Gas-A-Just shocks and Belltech sway bars.

Cool, Ill def try to bleed the air. Im going to get the hose flushed and try that summit hose..

Anyone got an idea about the gummy stuff?

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2002 Ranger XLT 3.0
General Grabber AT2 31/10.5/15, 15x7 ATX Slot, Hot girlfriend for passenger seat, Fabtech 2.5", Bilstein 5100, Poly Bumps, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Straigh pipe, Throttle Cable Mod, Air Box Mod, 5 Angle Valve Job, 180* Thermostat, Clear corners w/ Amber LEDs, Tinted Tails, 6000K Volt Digital HID Hi/Lo, K&N Drop-In, MAF Mod,

the green stuff? Fluid?

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Mods to come: Camburg entry 6.0 system. FiberwerkX Fenders and bedsides. Tube bumper.
R.I.P. Jeff Ashton. 1992-2011

Looking at your posts I think you didn't go for the flush yet? The green gummy stuff would be a sign you need that. If you only replace the upper hose with a stainless or aluminum hose you could do that at home with little spillage...but if you want to replace both..better let the shop do it (I'm assuming you would have a shop do that?). Remember anti-freeze is toxic and animals like to drink it suppossedly. Long Life anti-freeze and at least a stainless or aluminum upper hose will have you set for quite some time. You didn't replace the lower hose I think just looking at your beginning post?...good time to replace it also since it may be 8-9 years old now.

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JBA s.s. headers&exhaust, K&N cold air intake, Bosch Iridium Plus 4 plugs, Royal Purple in motor, 5spd & diff.,Superchips programmer, axle girdle. Also have but yet to install KYB Gas-A-Just shocks and Belltech sway bars.

I am going to look into replacing both hoses. The radiator is literally like 1500 miles old. So I am just wondering what would cause the gumming. I didnt mix coolant types to my knowledge, etc.

Ya, ima have a shop do the flush. I did a flush on my old car before and it was annoying.

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2002 Ranger XLT 3.0
General Grabber AT2 31/10.5/15, 15x7 ATX Slot, Hot girlfriend for passenger seat, Fabtech 2.5", Bilstein 5100, Poly Bumps, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Straigh pipe, Throttle Cable Mod, Air Box Mod, 5 Angle Valve Job, 180* Thermostat, Clear corners w/ Amber LEDs, Tinted Tails, 6000K Volt Digital HID Hi/Lo, K&N Drop-In, MAF Mod,

I fixed my coolant hose when it had this problem. Let the engine cool, Open the radiator cap and squeeze the hose until it is right again. You have air in the system causing it to have increased suction inside the hose.

The green snot is coolant mixed with oil. I've replaced 5 heads on a 2.9 from them cracking and my truck always had the green snot underneath the oil fill cap. The truck won't always miss when coolant is getting into the engine. It all depends on how bad the leak really is. The coolant/oil mixture vaporizes and gets to the top of the engine as a sort of steam, then it collects once it cools slightly. Look under your oil fill cap, and keep looking at it every few hundred miles.


GB

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2001 Edge Regular cab, auto 4.0L 4x4 4.10LS 8.8

1987 standard cab w/92 5.0/T5Z 31 spline 8.8 w/Torsen

1989 Regular cab longbed, manual 2.9 4x4 - Parts BroncoII's x 3

if you replace your lower GO WITH THE MOTORCRAFT ONE! I got my lowerhose from pepboys and it didnt even fit right, i brought it back several times and they kept giving ,me the same one,i have a small leak now because of it

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2001 Mazda B-3000 CabPlus "FX2 Off Road"| 3.0 | 5 SPD | 3 In Spindle Lift | Belltech Shackles | UltraGauge |Alpine Head / 10" Kicker Setup | Air Box Mod | Add-A-Leaf| Thrush Welded B4 Rear Wheel | Kobalt Box | Cobra 19 DX IV | Custom PA Speaker | Front/Rear Tow Receiver | 2X Aux Lights | Hideaway Strobes | Back Rack Safety Rack | Amber LED Strobes | Blue LED Strobes | 265/75/R16 General Grabber AT2's

I would like to add that I sometimes see where people have done some type of head work accidentally route the overflow tank hose to a port on the plenum instead of the lower intake during assembly. The plenum vacuum pulling on the overflow tank causes the upper radiator hose to collapse.