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  #16  
Old 12-06-2012, 05:56 PM
rjdelapp rjdelapp is offline
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Default Re: Overheating - can't find problem

Replace the waterpump. The 3.0 is notorious about the waterpump veins rusting away and it probably blew the head gaskets by now.
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  #17  
Old 12-07-2012, 12:13 AM
aristo1963 aristo1963 is offline
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Default Re: Overheating - can't find problem

Yep yours is textbook what I had,bubbles ,popping the overflow,wierd acting temp guage.Took out 2 radiators from the gas pressure.
The water pump had razor thin vanes missing vanes and holes.Replaced it and a motorcraft thermostat,but it was to late One blown head repair later my truck runs like a brand one again.
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  #18  
Old 12-09-2012, 05:22 PM
Dangahrangah617 Dangahrangah617 is offline
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Default Re: Overheating - can't find problem

I had this same problem last week. Did full flush, water pump and thermostat, and re topped with pretty green 50/50 pre mix.. 700 miles since and no more problems..

well, time will tell if the head is shot.. I only paid $300.oo for it so..
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Last edited by Dangahrangah617; 12-09-2012 at 05:33 PM.
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  #19  
Old 12-09-2012, 05:42 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: Overheating - can't find problem

To the OP, water pump failing. I understand you don't see anything leaking from the weep hole, but that is not the kind of failure you're looking for. That is for when the bearings are going out. The problem is the impeller vanes are rotted out, making it unable to pump anything useful. It gets even worse at higher RPM because instead of pumping a little, it just cavitates.
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  #20  
Old 12-09-2012, 05:44 PM
Rangerman49 Rangerman49 is offline
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Default Re: Overheating - can't find problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brock1385 View Post
My name is Brock and I'm new to the forum. This is my first post.

I've got a 99 Ford Ranger, 3.0L V6.

The weather has recently gotten cold here, and the other day, I was driving around and turned the heater on. The heater was blowing cold air and would never heat up.

I thought, "Uh OH, this is not good." But I kept driving all day, and my truck never overheated. The next morning I went to add coolant to the radiator, and upon starting the engine, I see antifreeze gushing out of the radiator. Needless to say, I needed a new radiator.

The only problem is, this is the 2nd radiator that I have replaced. I replaced the radiator last year at this exact same time. (thermostat was replaced both times, and one time before that).

After the first time the radiator was replaced, it would still overheat occasionally, but eventually it got better and I drove it for exactly a year (until this point).

After the radiator was replaced yesterday, my truck still overheats. I have heard the excuse "There is probably just air in the line" so many times that it makes me nauseas. Although this is what I heard the other day from the place that replaced the radiator after I told them it was still overheating.

The funny thing is though, it will overheat and I pull over for maybe 10 minutes. Then I start the truck up again, without adding anything to the radiator, and continue driving. The heater starts to blow hot, and it won't overheat for the rest of the night.

I have had people speculate that it has a cracked block or a blown head gasket, but I have had it looked at by a shop that does head work, and they found nothing.

I noticed last night that the bottom hose running to the radiator was collapsed, and so I asked the shop to replace this hose (even though they say they know that this is not a problem). I doubt this is the problem, but it's worth a shot since the hoses have never been replaced.

Sorry if this story seems kind of spastic, but I am willing to provide any information about the situation that is needed to resolve the problem. Please let me know what yall think.

Radiator caps are designed to maintain cooling system pressures in the range of 12 to 15 PSI. When an engine is shut down, the coolant temperature begins to drop. If the vacuum valve in the radiator cap fails, the resulting vacuum in the cooling system can cause a radiator hose to collapse. A malfunctioning radiator cap can also constrict coolant flow. When this happens, the water pump, trying to draw coolant through the lower radiator hose, can create a vacuum sufficient to collapse the hose.

A good shop would have installed a new cap with a new radiator AND upper/lower hoses...
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  #21  
Old 12-10-2012, 02:20 AM
LargeR LargeR is offline
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Default Re: Overheating - can't find problem

A good shop would have also done a block test with a tool like Block Chek (http://www.blockchek.com/). The test detects combustion gasses in the cooling system. You can buy the kits at your local parts house for about $40 and do the test yourself. The 3.0 heads are prone to cracking between the water jacket and cylinder so don't be surprised if you test positive for combustion gasses be ready for a bad head or two. Water pump impellers not really common problem but they can corrode; one way to test the pump is to run the truck with the radiator cap off (use a coolant funnel like this: http://revlimiter.net/blog/wp-conten...3/DSC_1249.jpg) fill the funnel to where the sides start going straight up (just to cover the bottom basically) and run the truck to operating temp to open the thermostat the rev up the engine; coolant should suck down as the pump starts circulating coolant through the system. If it doesn't, you have a bad pump or plugged radiator (a heat gun can tell you if your radiator is plugged).
A plugged heater core will not affect the rest of the cooling system unless it's contaminating your radiators and plugging them. Good luck, I'm looking forward to hearing how it turns out!
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  #22  
Old 12-10-2012, 03:38 AM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default

The pump impeller rotting out is indeed a common failure. It happens all the time.

<< Sent from my Galaxy S3 using the Android FRF App >>
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  #23  
Old 12-10-2012, 11:23 PM
rjdelapp rjdelapp is offline
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Default Re: Overheating - can't find problem

"The pump impeller rotting out is indeed a common failure. It happens all the time."
2X. That is why the weird brown color of the radiator fluid. Replace the pump.
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  #24  
Old 12-29-2012, 01:49 PM
johnanthonyhome johnanthonyhome is offline
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Default Re: Overheating - can't find problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyoil View Post
I don't know how long you've had your truck so its hard to know much w/o the history of repairs i.e. water pump replaced; serpentine belt etc.
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As to your collapsed hose, sometimes a lower radiator hose will collapse under vacuum at high speed and restrict the flow of coolant from the radiator into the engine. This can happen if the reinforcing spring inside the hose is missing or damaged.
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Belts & hoses - Check belt tension and condition. A loose belt that slips may prevent the water pump from circulating coolant fast enough and/or the fan from turning fast for proper cooling.
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Water pump - Any wobble in the pump shaft or seepage would call for replacement. In some instances, a pump can cause an engine to overheat if the impeller vanes are badly eroded due to corrosion or if the impeller has come loose from the shaft. The wrong pump may also cause an engine to overheat. Some engines with serpentine drive belts require a special water pump that turns in the opposite direction of those used on the same engine with ordinary V-belts. (I have a 3.0 too and don't know if it's possible to make a mistake and route the serpentine belt so the water pump spins the wrong direction)
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I doubt this is your problem, but a defective fan clutches are a common and often overlooked cause of overheating. The shear characteristics of the clutch fluid gradually deteriorates over time, with an average loss in drive efficiency of about 200 rpm per year. Eventually slippage reaches the point where effective cooling is no longer possible and overheating results. (On average, the life of a fan clutch is about the same as a water pump. If one needs to be replaced, the other usually does too.)
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I would imagine you would get a check engine code of some sort if excessive exhaust backpressure - A clogged catalytic converter is usually the culprit here, but don't overlook the possibility of a crushed pipe or a collapsed double wall pipe. Check intake vacuum at idle. If it reads low and continues to drop, inspect the exhaust system.
Bingo!!! Driving short distances in cold weather? Condensation is forming in exhaust causing ice blocks. Most likely in the muffler. Park vehicle on steep incline. Start and allow to warm up. Watch for water running out of tail pipe. It will.... Buy a heat gun and heat the muffler up really good. then the resonatror and cat. go for a long drive on the freeway and see if that helps. If this is the culprit id suggest a heated garage, or on my escort i drilled a drain hole in the back bottom of the muffler. Problem solved. This is verry common in WI... Short rips will kill ya.
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