2002 3.0 ranger w/ manual trans. Engine just seems to die when trying to accelerate past 4000 rpm, but only after it has warmed up. So far I've cleaned Mass Air Flow sensor and replaced air filter, fuel filter, PCV valve and tube, spark plugs and wires, coil pack, and battery. Tested fuel pressure, was at 65psi with truck running. Injectors all have same resistance. All cylinders have 180 psi compression. Any thoughts what this could be? Not that it cant drive me around just fine under 4k, but would like to get to the root of the problem. Thank you.

mine does something similer but its more like a jumping feeling. same year and motor except auto trans

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2002 Ranger Edge 2wd | 3.0 v6 auto 8.8 4.10 L/S | 32x11.50 Mud Kings | 28% tint | Chevy Shackles | Cranked B T-bars | Westin Bull bar w/ KC longrange| Three-tone airhorns | air box mod | k&n drop-in | foglamp mod | explorer ohc | alpine headunit | 10" mtx thunder 4500/custom box | kenwood amp| 4 wheel disk brakes | line of fire

Mine too!!! 3.0 flex auto trans 2wd.

Well... guess it's off to the ford service dept. tomorrow! Just talking to a tech there yesterday his first reaction was "igniter or coil". Since I recently replaced the coil pack, and couldn't find an "igniter" on the truck (and couldn't buy one for the year truck i have), this may not help me but figured I'd pass on the info. Anyway, I will get the diagnosis tomorrow (hopefully) and be sure to update the thread.

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Stock 3.0 1wd w/manual trans. Pioneer Premiere head unit, 2 x 12" Fosgate P3, MB Quart 1500.1D amp, 4 pioneer premier 6 1/2"s, 4 channel V-Power Alpine highs/mids.

Try again Tuesday

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Stock 3.0 1wd w/manual trans. Pioneer Premiere head unit, 2 x 12" Fosgate P3, MB Quart 1500.1D amp, 4 pioneer premier 6 1/2"s, 4 channel V-Power Alpine highs/mids.

may sound odd, but whats your coolant look like? The only reason why I ask, because when I was a Ford Technician I had one beat the $#!T out of me. It had no hard codes and the CEL(MIL) was not on, come to find out there was plenty of pending codes and a diagnosis trouble trees ended up inconclusive, when all it was, was the low coolant level. Not making sense? Check it out, an OBDII system uses serveral different monitors to adjust the fuel mixture, including coolant temp and then will adjust the A/F mixture accordingly it can not do so if it does have the correct input from all monitoring sensors, then will go into a limp mode, which allows you drive the vehicle enough to get to a shop. Anyhow, moral of the that story was that there was not coolant in the system and it caused the truck to act like that! Pissed me off, that i spent 3 days just to figure that out! LOL!

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98 Ranger, Bagged 2600's in the front, 2500's in the rear. 3 Gal tank. DJM Upper and Lower control arms. 2 Thomas Compressors (garbage). 4 linked rear with C-notch. All (except cab) fiberglass. Custom Tribal Paint (soon to be Sunburst/burnt Orange).
Coming soon - 405HP 4.6L (SOHC), 4R70W

Thank you for the info.

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Stock 3.0 1wd w/manual trans. Pioneer Premiere head unit, 2 x 12" Fosgate P3, MB Quart 1500.1D amp, 4 pioneer premier 6 1/2"s, 4 channel V-Power Alpine highs/mids.

Ok, got the truck back from the ford tech today. They recommended to replace camshaft position sensor (cps) assembly and computer. They said the computer was sending a poor signal to the cps. Now if the cps is a hall-effect sensor why would the computer send a signal to it? In any case I will attempt the fix in a few days, after delivery of the new assembly. Can anyone tell me how to it without the the alignment tool?

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Stock 3.0 1wd w/manual trans. Pioneer Premiere head unit, 2 x 12" Fosgate P3, MB Quart 1500.1D amp, 4 pioneer premier 6 1/2"s, 4 channel V-Power Alpine highs/mids.

yeah dude is a little off his rocker if he thinks that the CPS RECEIVES a signal, it sends a signal to the PCM. So yeah, I guess he is right the signal is weak... AKA not there LOL! The replacement of the CPS is rather easy just make sure you mark a spot on the hole for the cam synchro where the connector of the CPS was (indexing) and put your new in the same position,.

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98 Ranger, Bagged 2600's in the front, 2500's in the rear. 3 Gal tank. DJM Upper and Lower control arms. 2 Thomas Compressors (garbage). 4 linked rear with C-notch. All (except cab) fiberglass. Custom Tribal Paint (soon to be Sunburst/burnt Orange).
Coming soon - 405HP 4.6L (SOHC), 4R70W

Thank you for the reply. I take it i will need to mark position of the entire assembly (direction of connector), and position of half-moon deal on top of the synchronizer. Correct?

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Stock 3.0 1wd w/manual trans. Pioneer Premiere head unit, 2 x 12" Fosgate P3, MB Quart 1500.1D amp, 4 pioneer premier 6 1/2"s, 4 channel V-Power Alpine highs/mids.

Yes, the easiest way to be safe about the entire procedure would be to install the assembly the exact same way the old one was.

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98 Ranger, Bagged 2600's in the front, 2500's in the rear. 3 Gal tank. DJM Upper and Lower control arms. 2 Thomas Compressors (garbage). 4 linked rear with C-notch. All (except cab) fiberglass. Custom Tribal Paint (soon to be Sunburst/burnt Orange).
Coming soon - 405HP 4.6L (SOHC), 4R70W

Alright, got the new sychronizer in today. Didn't use the ford tool. First thing, remove sensor. I took good note on the position of the vane (it just happened to be in a good spot to mark). Then I marked the position of the assembly using a straight edge across the sensor screws (I removed them from the sensor and screwed them part way into the synchronizer) to a spot on the block that lined up. Removed clip screw that holds assembly in place. Pulled out with a little twist counter clockwise (lefty loosey). Cleaned mating surface. Oiled up new synchronizer gear and o-ring. Put synchronizer straight in, had to twist a little to line up oil pump drive. At this point it took a few tries to position the vane. I found that the sychronizer would go in but was hard to pull out to readjust (just a little twist to the left), but was able to position vane while oil pump was still engaged. Double checked assembly angle with my straight edge and screws. Finally i tapped the top of sychronizer with a block of wood and a crescent wrench to ensure it was well seated (checked angle again). Put in clip screw. Put on sensor. Started right up. Drove the truck for 20 min or so, no problems so far! Thank you Solo V8. I will update this thread in a couple days, after i drive it around for awhile.

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Stock 3.0 1wd w/manual trans. Pioneer Premiere head unit, 2 x 12" Fosgate P3, MB Quart 1500.1D amp, 4 pioneer premier 6 1/2"s, 4 channel V-Power Alpine highs/mids.

Victory

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Stock 3.0 1wd w/manual trans. Pioneer Premiere head unit, 2 x 12" Fosgate P3, MB Quart 1500.1D amp, 4 pioneer premier 6 1/2"s, 4 channel V-Power Alpine highs/mids.

Matt,
Is your problem with the hesitation still fixed? Wondering if you and BlueRanger1801 had seen this thread. Sounded to me like the problem you described might be like the one described there, which is similar to a problem my nephew's wife's truck is exhibiting...
David

Curious; can just the sensor be removed and get some oil in where the problem bushings are? I have no chirp from the back of the back of the motor yet.