I have a 99 ranger
stepside
3.0 v6 flexfuel
When going uphill or anytime i try to accelerate when Im already moving I get a sound that I think sounds like a diesel engine and the engine is very slow to respond.

But every time I read about dieseling people are talking about trucks
continuing to run after they are shut off.

So now I am wondering if this sound I hear is what is called pinging.

Now what should I do?

Mine does the same thing. I have no idea. the truck dont have any power

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1998 Ford Ranger

147,000 on chassis, 50,000 on engine.
3.0 v6 5 speed 4x4...4x4 don't work lol

What I hope to do- Paint wheels, new head unit, exhaust, fix four wheel drive.

Use a higher octane gas. Pinging is due to preignition. That is why it is also known as dieseling.

Try stepping up to a higher octane. I've been running 89 in mine because of the same problem. The ping went away with the 89 octane.

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Sgtsandman's Work in Progress
2011 Ranger XLT, 4X4, 4 door Super Cab. 4.0L, 5 Speed M50D-R1HD, 3.73:1, 8.8" open differential, Jason Pace cap
2019 Ford Ranger STX FX4, Super Crew, 2.3L Ecoboost, 10 speed automatic, 3.73:1 with rear locker, Leer 100XR cap

CARBON DEPOSITS in your combustion chamber can cause the pinging noise as well, what happens... the carbon gets built up in your combustion chamber and then everytime your ignition fires in the cylinder it combusts (of coarse, I hope) sometimes the amount carbon that is built up in the combustion chamber can stay lit (like charocoal) and will act as spark firing on the wrong stroke, however its not as volital as it would be coming from your iginition. The vulcan 3.0 was bad about this, I would try to clean your combustion chambers by buying some fuel treatment, getting your engine good and hot, remove the vaccum hose from your booster, stick the hose in your bottle of gas treatment bottle then start to rev the engine. Depending on how dirty your combustion chamber will determine how much smoke you blow out of the exhaust. Its good to keep the RPM's between like 1200 to about 4000 and periodically tach it out to ensure that you have successfully burn off any residual gas treatment.

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98 Ranger, Bagged 2600's in the front, 2500's in the rear. 3 Gal tank. DJM Upper and Lower control arms. 2 Thomas Compressors (garbage). 4 linked rear with C-notch. All (except cab) fiberglass. Custom Tribal Paint (soon to be Sunburst/burnt Orange).
Coming soon - 405HP 4.6L (SOHC), 4R70W

1/3 can of seafoam is good for the above mentioned treatment.

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Sgtsandman's Work in Progress
2011 Ranger XLT, 4X4, 4 door Super Cab. 4.0L, 5 Speed M50D-R1HD, 3.73:1, 8.8" open differential, Jason Pace cap
2019 Ford Ranger STX FX4, Super Crew, 2.3L Ecoboost, 10 speed automatic, 3.73:1 with rear locker, Leer 100XR cap

Dieseling:
"Dieseling or engine run-on is a condition that can occur in spark plug, gasoline powered internal combustion engines, whereby the engine keeps running for a short period after being turned off, due to fuel igniting without a spark.

Dieseling is so-named because it is similar in appearance to how diesel engines operate: by firing without a spark. The ignition source in a diesel is the compression of the fuel in the cylinder, rather than a spark as in gasoline engines. The dieseling phenomenon occurs not because the compression ratio is sufficient to cause auto-ignition of the fuel, but a hot spot inside the cylinder starts combustion. An automobile engine that is dieseling will typically sputter, then gradually stop."

I'd say this is due to people babying their engines. Which isn't good for them. They need to be ran hard a few times a week, 5k rpm at least to remove buildup. This is a known problem in diesel engines, as they get clogged up with carbon buildup if not ran hard enough. Make sure the engine is fully warmed up to temp, then wait another 20minutes, then run it hard once or twice & do this a few times a week.

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2002 Ranger 3.0 XLT | 5Speed | Flareside | 2wd | 3.73open |
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3.0 Ranger engines have their ignition timing set from the factory at the very edge of pre-ignition, and when they get a few miles on them and the carbon builds up (it doesn't take much), it insulates the combustion chamber causing it to run hotter, and then the pre-ignition starts.

I've used Sea Foam, and I personally think that it's snake oil. The first thing one should do to tame pinging in the 3.0 is to get rid of the 197* thermostat... heat and ignition timing are what causes pre-ignition, and when I threw a 180* t-stat in my Ranger my pre-ignition problems were cut by about 75%. On Rangers that are equipped with it, it also not a bad idea to block the hot water from flowing through the intake manifold, which will lower the intake charge's temperature.

The 3.0 engine is an old design and probably wasn't designed to run at high temps, so in addition to causing pre-ignition, I'm also of the opinion that the 197* t-stats contribute to the inordinate amount of head gasket and head cracking problems that Ranger 3.0 owners report, and I also suspect that the high engine temps combined with the thin oils that most Ranger owners run in their engines contributes to the cam synchro not getting enough lubrication, causing them to fail.

I did the MAF mod on my truck and that also seemed to reduce my engine's pining a bit more (cooler intake charge?) After I swapped in a 180* t-stat and did the MAF mod, I took care of the little bit of pinging that remained by buying a tuner and dropping my ignition timing a degree or two. Now I can run the cheapest, lowest octane gas in town in the hottest of weather and my engine doesn't ping.

Makes sense, I used 180 one since thats what the guy said was used for my truck. Also makes sense on the thin oil, which I am using, 5w-20. And the cam syncro is starting to act up more and more. Plan on replacing it in a few months. What oil would you say to use? 10-30?

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2002 Ranger 3.0 XLT | 5Speed | Flareside | 2wd | 3.73open |
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I use 10w30 in the winter and 10w-40 in the summer and have been doing so since my truck was new 145,000 miles ago.

Carbon build up, 1 bottle of Seafoam, 1 tank of high octane gas, 1 day of putting the petal to the metal to blow the carbon out. Worked like a charm for me.

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0 V6 4-Door Automatic
8.8 3.73 Limited Slip Rear Cobra Disc Brake Conversion
Rear Frame Repair Kit, Electric Fan Conversion
1'' Body lift, Cranked T-Bars, Roadmaster Suspension Kit, John Deere Yellow Shocks

If I could ask, was your symptom that the pinging only occurred when the outside temperature was above 75-80deg?

Thanks.

I can't speak for everyone but I noticed that there was quite a bit less pinging when I caught a self inflicted exhaust leak (while replacing the slave cylinder). When I had repairs done to the exhaust, I got it so that it would be a little better flowing. A better flowing muffler and 2+1/2" pipe after the muffler cleared up about 70%. I went ahead and got a new dpfe sensor as I had the metal one and that took care of some more.
I read on one of these forums that the e85 that the truck can run on is the equivalent of 92 octane or something like that. As long as it is relatively cool outside I will continue to put the cheaper gas in it.
For now, it's ok. It will ping if I hammer it from 5th to 3rd to jump out on the beltway, but generally it's alright. I think that I hear a very slight hiss unless I keep speed up to at least 65.
I tell you what though if it is foggy or raining the thing REFUSES to ping! What is the 3.no good for? About 150 hp? If that is the case, 150 is plenty, as buttercup (the truck) turns into a rocket ship!

What is the MAF mod?

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Are you meaning to put the Seafoam IN THE GAS TANK along with high octane gas?

Can you tell me how your rear disc brake conversion was done please?