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  #1  
Old 08-11-2010, 06:08 PM
Lil Blue 4x4 Lil Blue 4x4 is offline
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Unhappy Engine Diagnostic code headaches

Pretty lengthy skip to second paragraph for breif

ok i have a 2000 ford ranger 3.0 flex fuel 4x4, it all started on a sunny drive home from work when truck stalled at 55 mph after coasting off the road into a drive way i tried to crank motor over an nothingturned key completely off popped hood nothing smoking no leaks not cables loose. hop back in truck truck starts idles for 2 minutes stalls again turn key off truck starts again back out of drive way continue to cousins house truck stalls twice on way over. threw a p0320 code came up as crank sensor at autozone got one replaced it drove home stalls about halfway home about 8 miles after replacin "defective part" finally get home replace crank sensor once more truck runs like a champ no code for 2 days i get excited easy fix WRONG truck stalls in driveway on way to work miss work makes for a bad day that leads to a bad month, replace cam sensor buy a harmonic balancernever put it on wouldntve done anything old one was still like new.finally get fed up with it and take it to ford dealership after i replace crank sensor twice cam sensor once coil pack plug wires altenator and baterry(needed an altenator an battery lost power at idle and battery wouldnt hold a charge. ford says its crank sensor said aftermarket ones dont throw right signal 25 dollar part turns into 80 dollar part with the press of a stamp but truck runs then stalls 3 days after i took it to a ford dealership. take it back their stumped and truck doesnt stall for them so i take it home truck stalls on way home frustration level about a 7 on a 10 scale take it back to ford tell em fix it this time guy chuckles i stare him down he walks into garage and pops hood next day truck throws p0176 and p0320 is gone? ok so p0176 comes up fuel pump ford wants 700 for part then 230 for labor i say nah get pump for 140 and 2 hour later beds off pumps in bed back on good day truck runs fine still runs but is still throwing the p0176 code is there anybody out there that would know what could be throwing this code so im not throwing money into parts i dont need.

Trucks stalls p0320 code comes up replace crank sensor twice,cam sensor once, still no good take it to ford comes up crank aparently aftermarket signal is different ford replaces crank truck stalls on way home.take it back comes up p0176 fuel pump makes sense truck started loosing power and surged a little at idle replaced fuel pump but p0176 still comes up any ideas truck runs fine but dont like the yellow light brings up bad memmories
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  #2  
Old 08-11-2010, 07:16 PM
mickblock mickblock is offline
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Default Re: Engine Diagnostic code headaches

For the most part, DTC codes don't go away until the computer sees the fix through several drive cycles. Just like they don't go on until the computer sees the problem through several drive cycles.

P0176: Flexible Fuel sensor circuit.
That's the special fuel composition sensor that tells your computer what fuel you're using and how to preset timing, etc. so that you can use anything up to E85 fuel.

Anyone know where that sensor is located? NOT on the fuel pump!!
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  #3  
Old 08-12-2010, 04:00 AM
Lil Blue 4x4 Lil Blue 4x4 is offline
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Default Re: Engine Diagnostic code headaches

it has seen a few drive cycles since replaced and runs great better than before i started having trouble. should i be concerned about this sensor, could it be bad also? they just said fuel pump. hope its not in the tank also pump was a pain to replace. thanks for reading and post was appreciated
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Old 08-12-2010, 08:19 AM
mickblock mickblock is offline
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Default Re: Engine Diagnostic code headaches

They also told you that an OEM replacement part was "aftermarket."

Anyway the sensor is located inline with the fuel line on the left frame rail.
I think that repair work has a tendency to fix certain problems temporarily due to the fact that the battery may be disconnected for more than ten minutes.


There was a TSB on this model year involving a vulnerable connection on the wire loom that your fuel composition sensor shares. In short It may not be the sensor itself.
Which is good, because I don't even want to tell you how much a new one costs.
The only thing you'll need to perform the service described, that I'll assume you do not have, is dielectric grease.
If you've got any question on how to clean a contact, feel free to post back.


TSB
01-5-2
Publication Date: MARCH 2, 2001
FORD:2000-2001 RANGERISSUE:

Some vehicles may exhibit a rough idle, Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) warning lamp illumination, inoperative or erratic speedometer, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P0500, P0501, P0503, P1721, P0176, P1000, ABS DTC 9, RABS DTC 16, or a delayed or harsh shifting automatic transmission. This may be caused by water intrusion at connector C309 (2000 model year) or C340 (2001 model year) under the driver's seat.
ACTION:

Inspect affected connectors; clean or replace connector pins as necessary. Install new sleeve and boot assembly over -14401- connector (interior). Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE

Verify water intrusion in connector C309 for 2000 model year or C340 for 2001 model year applications by removing bottom half (male) connector located on -14405- wire harness assembly under driver's seat, outside, beneath vehicle's cab. If water is present or pins are damaged, remove connector sleeve and perform the following:
INSIDE CAB

  • Remove driver's seat
  • Remove driver's door scuff plate
  • Peel carpet or vinyl lining back to gain access to top portion of connector C309F (for 2000 model year) or C340F (for 2001 model year)
F = Female Side Of Connector

  • Remove connector from floor pan by depressing locking tabs on side of connector
  • Remove cap from back of connector to gain access to the pins
  • Remove red locking wedge from face of connector
  • Remove each pin individually and clean accordingly NOTE:IF PINS ARE DAMAGED BEYOND THE ABILITY TO CLEAN, OBTAIN NEW PINS FOR REPAIR. ALL PINS WILL REQUIRE SOLDERING TO WIRE FOR MORE ROBUST CONNECTION. REFERENCE APPROPRIATE PINS:F67Z-14487-AA replacing silver finish pins (1.6mm) and/or E6DZ-14487-AA replacing gold/brass finish pins (1.6mm) and/or F6DZ-14487-BA replacing gold/brass finish pins (2.8mm).
  • When all pins are cleaned or replaced, install new Cap (1L5Z-14A541-AA) over existing connector 14A464
  • Insert all pins through new Rubber Boot (1L5Z-14A099-AA)
  • Install pins into existing connector (refer to the appropriate Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) for correct pin positions)
  • Install existing red locking wedge and seat rubber boot to new cap
  • Insert connector into sheet metal (floor pan area)
OUTSIDE CAB UNDERNEATH VEHICLE/DRIVER'S SIDE

  • Remove cap from back of connector C309M (2000 model year) or C340M (2001 model year)
M = Male Side Of Connector

  • Remove white locking wedge from face of connector
  • Remove each pin individually, clean accordingly, and re-insert into correct cavity of lower connector 14A624 (refer to EVTM for correct pin position) NOTE:IF PINS ARE DAMAGED BEYOND THE ABILITY TO CLEAN, OBTAIN NEW PINS FOR REPAIR. ALL PINS WILL REQUIRE SOLDERING TO WIRE FOR MORE ROBUST CONNECTION. REFERENCE APPROPRIATE PINS:E7EB-14461-BA replacing silver finish pins (1.6mm) and/or F6TZ-14461-AA replacing gold/brass finish pins (1.6mm) and/or F6DZ-14461-CA replacing silver finish pins (2.8mm) and/or E5DZ-14461-A replacing silver finish (1.6mm Circuits 52 and 64)
  • Install existing white locking wedge and reseat existing cap to back of connector C309M (2000 model year) or C340M (2001 model year)
  • Apply dielectric grease sparingly to all pins
  • Slide sleeve over upper connector and lock-in place
  • Slide lower connector over sleeve and secure with bolt in connector - torque bolt to 4.8 0.8 N-m (42.5 7 lb-in)
After connector has been reinstalled, verify concern has been eliminated. Reinstall carpet or vinyl lining, door scuff plate, and driver's seat.


PART NUMBERPART NAME1L5Z-14A099-AARubber Connector Boot1L5Z-14A541-AAPlastic Connector CapF67Z-14487-AAFemale Side - Silver Finish Pins (1.6mm)E6DZ-14487-AAFemale Side - Gold/Brass Finish Pins (1.6mm)F6DZ-14487-BAFemale Side - Gold/Brass Finish Pins (2.8mm)E7EB-14461-BAMale Side - Silver Finish Pins (1.6mm)F6TZ-14461-AAMale Side - Gold/Brass Finish Pins (1.6mm)F6DZ-14461-CAMale Side - Silver Finish Pins (2.8mm)E5DZ-14461-AMale Side - Silver Finish (1.6mm Circuits 52 And 64)OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:

NONE
WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage


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  #5  
Old 08-12-2010, 02:30 PM
Lil Blue 4x4 Lil Blue 4x4 is offline
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Thumbs up Re: Engine Diagnostic code headaches

yea pretty sure it wasnt the crank sensor but thats done with, you said just to clean the sensor an dab a little dielectric grease on it an if thats no good look at getting a new sensor? .... wish i woulda joined this site a month ago woulda saved alotta trouble with this. Thanks again
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  #6  
Old 08-12-2010, 03:03 PM
mickblock mickblock is offline
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Default Re: Engine Diagnostic code headaches

You may be looking at more run around if you don't read the bulletin more carefully.
The sensor wires are located in a wire harness along with a connector that is described in the TSB I posted for you. This connector continues the sensors three wires up to power, ground, and the PCM and is not located at the sensor.
Although it sure wouldn't hurt to clean the connector on the sensor itself as well.
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  #7  
Old 08-12-2010, 06:31 PM
Lil Blue 4x4 Lil Blue 4x4 is offline
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Default Re: Engine Diagnostic code headaches

Thanks alot i really hope this clears up the problem. hopefully i can check the connections and get em greased this weekend. is there a way to have the sensor bench tested at all? or could i hook a diagnostic computer up to the truck and get a reading? i dont mean to bug you but you obviously know more about these codes and sensors than i do lol
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Old 08-13-2010, 06:36 PM
mickblock mickblock is offline
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Default Re: Engine Diagnostic code headaches

When you test a sensor your both testing the circuit that it's in and testing it's function by finding out what type of signal the senor puts out and what it's expected range is and then measuring its output while its in the car.

But I don't know about bench testing sensors.
That would require a bit of a lab experiment! You can "bench test" a thermostat by chucking it in a pot of boiling water which duplicates coolant temperature and see if it opens fully.

You could add a bottle of seafoam to your gas tank as a way of cleaning the sensor.
But after finding and reading that TSB I'm of the opinion that its the circuit, not the sensor.
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  #9  
Old 08-03-2011, 05:51 PM
remington 870 remington 870 is offline
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Default Re: Engine Diagnostic code headaches

The Taurus 3 liter sensor is the same as the Ranger I believe their are quite a few of them in salvage yards still , I checked the OEM part number with ford and they are excactly the same thing, so I replaced mine with one from the Tuarus and it has been working fine for more than 10 k miles and it was only 75 bucks
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2000, 3.0 flex fuel, p0176, p0320

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