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  #76  
Old 09-28-2013, 03:15 PM
quirk quirk is offline
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Default Re: who all has rough idle in a 3.0?

Well, I have learned a lot about this variation of the rough idle issue with my Ranger.

After replacing the head gasket again on the drivers side because coolant was leaking from the water jacket into #6 cylinder I put everything back together and it was purring like a kitten except...coolant was still getting into the #6 cylinder. By this time I had decided to try some type of stop leak to fix the problem. Although the stuff worked when first putting it in my radiator the next morning I still had the leak. Yes, I did read and follow instructions and found several videos on the internet concerning the proper technique for the stuff I was using.

So anyway the motor was still running pretty good when I went to pass someone and got up to about 80 or so I blew BOTH head gaskets. They are aftermarket.

I limp home.

It was during this period I figured out why coolant was leaking into the #6 cyl. When I had the heads repaired the machine shop resurfaced them. I think this was a huge mistake on my part not realizing that for the last 10 years and 112,000 miles the block and heads had sort of 'grown together' in spots meaning since everything was fastened together for that long the castings had surface undulations that were parallel to each other. I had gotten good compression results before starting all this 170-180 PSI on all cyls except one at 150. not really that bad.

And although the truck ran great at 70 or 75, at higher speeds and cylinder pressures it just couldn`t take it.

I started this because I won`t have time to work on my truck over the next year or so and I wanted to make sure this missing and stumbling didn`t leave me stranded on the way to work. So now I have given up and taken it to a shop here that I trust to help me fix this thing with a new Ford remanufactured motor. Very expensive adventure.

So what are some of the things I found out that you will probably read and ignore?

1. Don`t use engine sealants. When I pulled both heads the last time I tried to fix this (attempt no. 3) I had a devil of a time getting the sealant stuff out of the water jackets. In fact I would have had to flush my coolant every couple of months just to finally get it all out I think.

2. 2004 Ranger head torque calls for final tightening of head bolts by tightening them 90 degrees then going back over them and doing that again. I snuck up on this method with a torque wrench and it winds up being about 64 to 68 lb/ft in my case which is about what models on both sides of the 2004 require. Of course this was with a block that wasn`t perfectly flat so your torque values should all be very very close to the same if both block and heads are flat.

3. If you get your heads worked on have a good conversation with your machinist. Check your block to see how much irregularity you have. Mine was .020" Just under the total out-of-flat limit. Because if your head gaskets sealed fine before you get the heads surfaced, they may not seal after. I fitted my heads to the block without head gaskets after they were surfaced and they didn`t wiggle on the block so don`t assume you will notice out of flat by doing this. Probably not. And here is the no. one reason I am having to get a whole motor. You can`t true up your block without complete disassembly. If it were possible, even with taking up a lot of my time I would have fixed this thing myself.

4. Use Ford head gaskets and head bolts. There is a difference here. Ford head gaskets for my truck appear to be some type of stainless steel mesh impregnated with graphite and I have read (on the internet of course) that this gasket transfers heat better than after market. I can see that. The head gaskets are more expensive yes, but there is a good reason for this.

6. Use new dowels on your block and make sure the holes in the head that accept the dowels are clean so that you don`t get any sticking of the head when you go back with it. That way your torque values will be true.

7. If you ever do have to buy a reman. motor, the difference between a long block with an independent shop 3 year-36,000 warranty and a Ford long block 3 year- 100,000 mile warranty was about 500-600 dollars in my case. Of course if you have to have someone else put it in like I am having to do...well it is a little more. Most of the ones I shopped for had been tested at the factories of each vendor to have good compression, oil pressure, etc. and Ford I think even puts oil in theirs.

I hope none of you guys has to go through what I did. It ate up a bunch of my time and because I work about 14 hours a day I really can`t do stuff like this unless it is a hobby. I need my vehicle to make a living. Plus it has burned up a ton of cash.

Good Luck
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  #77  
Old 10-04-2013, 07:20 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: who all has rough idle in a 3.0?

Any tips for pulling the heads? I watched a few Vids. Seems straight forward. Any one know how many and what type of bolts went into the heads from the front of the engine?
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2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #78  
Old 10-04-2013, 01:44 PM
rangerlocal rangerlocal is offline
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Default Re: who all has rough idle in a 3.0?

Best source I've found. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rYm...0&noredirect=1
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2000 Ranger XL, 2WD, 3.0l, 3.73 rear, 10" rear drum ABS, standard cab, long bed, A/C, 4r44e auto trans w/transgo shift kit, throttle cable mod, air box silencer mod, rear sway bar retrofit, white grill swap, CURT hitch, Westin step bars
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Man wish i had tits, seems like its easier to get a job if you have tits.
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  #79  
Old 10-06-2013, 03:58 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: who all has rough idle in a 3.0?

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Originally Posted by rangerlocal View Post
Thanks. That is very helpful. Looks reasonably straight forward just a bunch of work. I went to 3 small Indy shops that I have dealt with and no one wants to bother with the job. I guess if I pressed them they would do it for around $1,500 in labor. They like doing brakes etc, they make easier faster money.
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #80  
Old 10-06-2013, 07:15 PM
rangerlocal rangerlocal is offline
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Default Re: who all has rough idle in a 3.0?

Yea; $1500 labor is pretty typical for a set of heads removed, decked, and gaskets replaced. It's still a ripoff, especially considering how easy it is on these trucks. It's easier than the Taurus, which isn't too bad. The block is small, the heads aren't extremely tall, and it's a nice compact package. Only thing easier is the 2.3!
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2000 Ranger XL, 2WD, 3.0l, 3.73 rear, 10" rear drum ABS, standard cab, long bed, A/C, 4r44e auto trans w/transgo shift kit, throttle cable mod, air box silencer mod, rear sway bar retrofit, white grill swap, CURT hitch, Westin step bars
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Originally Posted by writtenaudio View Post
Man wish i had tits, seems like its easier to get a job if you have tits.
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  #81  
Old 10-15-2013, 01:23 PM
Bordest Bordest is offline
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Default Re: who all has rough idle in a 3.0?

Where did you guys buy your IAC, i live in canada may have to buy online
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  #82  
Old 10-15-2013, 05:54 PM
GLH GLH is offline
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Default Re: who all has rough idle in a 3.0?

http://www.rockauto.com/
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  #83  
Old 10-15-2013, 07:12 PM
TheSplash TheSplash is offline
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Default Re: who all has rough idle in a 3.0?

Having idle issues in my 94 3.0 as well

bad surge at idle (500-1,500) which settles to lower then usual rpm. Then every time i go back to idle at a light it'll surge again. It also starts to heat up at lights, dropping almost right away when I start driving again. You can also feel the throttle slam shut when I get off the gas to shift. I think the heating issue may be the fan clutch as I used to plainly hear the fan during low gear revs but don't anymore. Sometimes I come to a light and it'll do a light surge once and flatten out. Other times it's bad enough to drop the voltage when it falls.

Looking through the thread I don't have any power issues, the truck drives fine. I also made sure to check the plastic intake, no issues there.
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Last edited by TheSplash; 10-15-2013 at 07:19 PM.
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  #84  
Old 10-23-2013, 10:56 PM
quirk quirk is offline
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Default Re: who all has rough idle in a 3.0?

modelageek, sorry, I have been working. Changing out the heads is not that hard. The only thing I hope you will think about is the flatness of the block. Before you begin, decide on what you will do if the block is out of tolerance because once you get heads back on that are flat, the block and the heads will have to be in really good shape parallel-wise.
If I had known then what I know now I would have just bought a reman. motor from someone. In my case Ford. If your block winds up okay then you shouldn`t have any problems but make sure whoever works on your heads understands you don`t want just enough to 'get by' or you will be pulling them again soon. In fact, rebuilt heads might be the way to go. Either way, if you haven`t started yet I hope everything works out for you.

The fan clutch is left-handed.
The alternator mount has 3 bolts bolted to the head.
The Power Steering mount has 3 bolts in front and two on the side bolted to the head. Then the A/C bolts onto that P/S mount.
When you reinstall the lower intake you need to go around torquing the thing at least 3 times on the first number (inch-pounds I think) and at least twice the second time (foot-pounds) to make sure it gets pulled down evenly all the way. Just go a little at a time.
The clamp that holds the A/C hose below the alternator is easier taken off when the alternator mount is loose.
Pull the radiator. It is too easy to get out of the way rather than working around it.


Keep everything clean and you should be good.
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  #85  
Old 10-23-2014, 10:10 AM
JoMamma_Smurf JoMamma_Smurf is offline
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Default Re: who all has rough idle in a 3.0?

I'm having this issue with my 94 3.0 as well. Replaced plugs, EGR and fuel filter. Cap and wires are new as well. My brother suggested the timing. We checked it and sure enough it was off. Set it to 10 degrees BTDC and it seemed to help a lot. But the symptoms seem to be coming back. My fuel filler neck is cracked VERY badly. Will have the replacement tomorrow. So, NEWisconsin, you're saying the filler neck fixed your issue??
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  #86  
Old 10-23-2014, 10:36 AM
rangerlocal rangerlocal is offline
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Default Re: who all has rough idle in a 3.0?

Might be a stretched timing chain if your timing keeps getting off.
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Originally Posted by writtenaudio View Post
Man wish i had tits, seems like its easier to get a job if you have tits.
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  #87  
Old 10-23-2014, 11:29 AM
JoMamma_Smurf JoMamma_Smurf is offline
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Default Re: who all has rough idle in a 3.0?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rangerlocal View Post
Might be a stretched timing chain if your timing keeps getting off.
Only has 107k miles on it. The previous owner supposedly did head gaskets on it so maybe that's when the timing was not set properly. Who knows
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  #88  
Old 10-23-2014, 04:06 PM
Junior112 Junior112 is offline
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Default Re: who all has rough idle in a 3.0?

I have a rough idle on mine. i just got to replace the IAC. My "check gauge" light comes on every now and then but goes back off within 10-15 seconds. Any idea what this could be? I had it scanned and it came back with zero codes....
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  #89  
Old 10-23-2014, 05:40 PM
JoMamma_Smurf JoMamma_Smurf is offline
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Default Re: who all has rough idle in a 3.0?

I was messing around under the hood and noticed my ground strap from the fender the the hood came off. Reconnected it and now it seems to be fine.. Interesting.
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  #90  
Old 10-23-2014, 09:02 PM
rangerlocal rangerlocal is offline
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Default Re: who all has rough idle in a 3.0?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Junior112 View Post
I have a rough idle on mine. i just got to replace the IAC. My "check gauge" light comes on every now and then but goes back off within 10-15 seconds. Any idea what this could be? I had it scanned and it came back with zero codes....
Check gauges light is for low fuel or a gauge problem. The check engine light is different. Could be the fuel sending unit.
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2000 Ranger XL, 2WD, 3.0l, 3.73 rear, 10" rear drum ABS, standard cab, long bed, A/C, 4r44e auto trans w/transgo shift kit, throttle cable mod, air box silencer mod, rear sway bar retrofit, white grill swap, CURT hitch, Westin step bars
Quote:
Originally Posted by writtenaudio View Post
Man wish i had tits, seems like its easier to get a job if you have tits.
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