I have this EGR problem on my 2001 ford ranger. I replaced the valve but still has the engine light on. Does that mean the pipe has carbon build up and it needs replacing, cleaning? If so would Cfome work to clean that?


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welcome to the forum! if you can swing by a parts store that reads engine codes for you , that would be the best bet. that can help us pinpoint it a lot better usually.

BUT, for the time being I would find your DPFE sensor. check it out, the electrical connector, and the hoses connected to it and give those a good inspection. if one of the hoses cracked or the connector corroded, then you'll see a code like P1401 or P1403...

Also, be a good idea to find the egr vacuum solenoid. it will have an electrical connector and vacuum lines attached to it. One of the vacuum lines goes to the EGR valve itself. That line could be cracked or maybe just unplugged over time

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1999 xlt 2.5l 5-speed Supercab 159k
83 diesel 2.2l na
06 F250 6.0l psd
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Just remove the EGR with a block-off plate and a proper bolt/weld the bung in the manifold and add a MIL resistor to fake out the ECU.

Its been proven to be nothing but a parasite in a vehicle as is. If it were that important of a necessity why is there only 1 on any V, H, or W styled engine block? What? it only works on one exhaust bank because... calculations and A/F ratios?

Staappphhh it!... The Green new Deal aint gonna suffer or be better!



Newer cars, 3 generations ahead in ZERO emissions technology for revenue generation compliance so the manufactures get carbon tax credits for selling a product that does what? Create carbon.., yet so many cities requiring you SMOG your "NEW" vehicle for compliance..

Meanwhile, back in bizzaro land, if your vehicle is 25 years or older [Cough-cough] feel free to rip off that CAT, free flow exhaust that shit and do whatever ya like. MMMMK!


Although without looking at it specifically, I cant say a 100% there is anything really wrong with your truck other than that sensor of sorts and or another sensor that works in relation to. Its not the engine, its the sensors which I find funny that with all of the technology differences over the years, gearing, engine designs, and generations of platforms in fuel tech; and the mileage increases are only 1-3 MPG negligibly better?

Seems like no matte the car with exception to a few hybrid vehicles.. Most cars/trucks will always get 270-400 MPG no matter what Make, Model, or attributions of bullshit emissions jargon added the the Maroney sticker.

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Well see when I start the truck up, it idols up and down for a few minutes then it evens out. I’m guessing that’s because of the EGR. But I’ll give these things a look this weekend when I get a chance. Any other suggestions I’m open to, keep letting me know. I bought this personal code reader and I have to delete the code every 3-8 days.


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the egr valve won't be commanded open until the engine is at operating temperature during light engine loads (cruising on the highway). So I wouldn't think that the egr valve is causing the idle going up and down. it could i suppose, but usually the diaphram either sticks in one position when it fails.

ans i'm all for egr deletes lol! i almost did that myself on my ranger

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1999 xlt 2.5l 5-speed Supercab 159k
83 diesel 2.2l na
06 F250 6.0l psd
{click for lol}

if the egr is malfunctioning, or has a chunk of carbon causing it to stick partially open, then yes it will cause a rough idle. that used to be an old type of mechanic fraud( wiggle the most expensive part they could find and secretly push on the egr diaphragm to make it act up). delete it or clean it

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2005 Ranger Edge 3.0. no mods yet, just trying to keep it on the road