There's a pin hole leak at the rusty fitting you see in the picture: http://imgur.com/a/INaGU

The leak is JUST below the rubber hose. I believe this part cannot be replaced easily. I was thinking of two options:

1. Cut the top off. If I do this, how worried should I be from metal shards from sawing it to fall into the manifold? How would I make the top of the nipple wider so the hose would be snug in there?

2. JB Weld the hole and push the hose further down and put a new clamp on the hose.

What would you guys suggest I do? The hole thing is rather rusty

I highly doubt JB weld would "fix" that.
And if it did, it'll probably just find the next weakest location, and start another hole

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'02 Edge, 4x4, Ext. Cab

If its just below the hose just push the hose further down


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2017 Lightning Blue Mustang GT PP 430/402
CJ Pony Parts Lowering Springs | Texas Speed Longtubes | PMAS CAI | Lund Tuned | Borla S-Type Catback
2013 F150 FX4 5.0 - Sold
1998 Jeep Wrangler TJ 4.0 5spd - Sold
2001 Mustang Bullitt - Sold
2005 Level II - Sold
2001 Integra GSR - Sold
1999 XLT - May 2013 TOTM - Totaled

Should I JB Weld it at all before covering the hole?

You wouldn't suggest cutting the top off?

If you cover the hole theres no need to do anything else....
I wouldn't suggest cutting anything. Just slide the hose further down. Its quite simple...


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__________________
2017 Lightning Blue Mustang GT PP 430/402
CJ Pony Parts Lowering Springs | Texas Speed Longtubes | PMAS CAI | Lund Tuned | Borla S-Type Catback
2013 F150 FX4 5.0 - Sold
1998 Jeep Wrangler TJ 4.0 5spd - Sold
2001 Mustang Bullitt - Sold
2005 Level II - Sold
2001 Integra GSR - Sold
1999 XLT - May 2013 TOTM - Totaled

Why would JB weld be needed if the hose would be covering it?

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I know my question sounds stupid. Wouldn't it still be leaking inside and collect at the end of the hose and leak out?

I called a local mechanic and he suggested that they can be eliminated. The one to the right (rusted one) is the one that is leaking. Can I actually tie them together and leave both plugs left open?

Update: my heat stopped working a few days ago. I thought this was the issue. I fixed the leak and I'm full on coolant.

Heat still does not work. I tested the blend door actuator and it's working. I'm fairly certain the door is working properly as well. When I turn it to max AC I can hear something move where the door is. My next test was to check the heat valve. The hose leading from the manifold to the valve is warm. However, the hose on the other side of the valve remains cool after my truck has been running. Would this indicate a faulty valve?

If that valve is ok, could be air in system. My 01 just got new radiator for Xmas. Had to burp it many times.
Its worth looking at the valve, I had heat whole time tho.

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88 ranger xlt ext cab 4x4 2.9l 5 speed
95 ranger reg cab, 4 cyl 5 speed
01 ranger edge, reg cab, 2wd, 3.0 with 5 speed, 4 in suspension lift.

Depending on your mileage, it doesn't hurt to backflush the heater core both directions anytime you change your antifreeze or replace parts. YouTube videos show how to do it. When my heat quit working, my mechanic flushed the cooling system but when I got the truck back the heat was still just warm, not hot. The mechanic said my heater core needed to be replaced. So I decided to flush the core myself several times in both directions. The first attempt got a huge glob of rust colored "mud" out of the system. It was badly clogged. I now have extreme heat. These engines seem to be more corrosive for heater cores, water pumps and radiators. I now use an antifreeze mixture of 75%. The 50-50 mix doesn't seem strong enough.

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1999 XLT, EXT. CAB , 3.O FLEX FUEL, AUTOMATIC
Completely Stock, No Mods

You could have a plugged heater core. Particularly since the coolant leaking out of that hose looks quite brown, I'm assuming it's been a bit neglected and is likely rusty and chunky.

Drain the system, pull off the top hose from the butterfly vacuum heater valve, and shove your hosepipe in it. Turn it on and backflush the core out the bottom of the radiator. That will also allow you to peer down into the hose where the valve is and make sure it's not caked up. You can also actuate that valve manually to see if you get heat.