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  #1  
Old 01-02-2016, 06:26 PM
archersofloaf archersofloaf is offline
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Default 2002 Ranger 3.0L Shakes from 2000 to 3000 RPM

Hi All,

I have a 2002 Ranger Edge with the 3.0L engine (non-flex fuel) with automatic transmission, and recently it started shaking (or having tremors) when driving at between about 2000 and 3000 rpm. In addition, after I drove it earlier today and had the car in park, it starting making a mild "thud" every couple of seconds or so (I couldn't tell where the thud was coming from though).

The truck has about 119k miles on it. I replaced the camshaft synchronizer and spark plugs (but not the spark plug wires) about a 1000 miles ago, and the truck ran fine during that time. Today, I replaced the fuel filter, but that didn't solve the problem. The CEL isn't on.

Any advice would be much appreciated. I thought about trying to change the spark plug wires, but don't want to just start throwing parts at it without knowing what the problem might be. Thanks in advance for your help!
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  #2  
Old 01-02-2016, 06:46 PM
Kealel Kealel is offline
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Default Re: 2002 Ranger 3.0L Shakes from 2000 to 3000 RPM

What plugs did you use?
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Old 01-02-2016, 08:17 PM
archersofloaf archersofloaf is offline
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Default Re: 2002 Ranger 3.0L Shakes from 2000 to 3000 RPM

I used Motorcraft SP-432 spark plugs.

I just tried revving the truck a bit while it's in park. While in park, the tremors seem to occur only at 2000 rpm, and are a bit more mild. Also, when I had the truck on this time (for about 10 minutes), it didn't make the "thud" sound at all.
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Old 01-10-2016, 12:25 AM
archersofloaf archersofloaf is offline
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Default Re: 2002 Ranger 3.0L Shakes from 2000 to 3000 RPM

I ended up figuring out the problem, and so thought I'd post a quick update just to help others that are having this same problem. The problem turned out to be a faulty radiator cap.
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Old 01-10-2016, 05:20 PM
GSF1200S GSF1200S is offline
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Default Re: 2002 Ranger 3.0L Shakes from 2000 to 3000 RPM

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Originally Posted by archersofloaf View Post
I ended up figuring out the problem, and so thought I'd post a quick update just to help others that are having this same problem. The problem turned out to be a faulty radiator cap.
I don't understand how a radiator cap could have anything to do with shuddering at a given rpm, nor do I see how it could make a thump noise. Perhaps if the truck massively overheated, but you didn't mention that. I would expect to see boiling over or venting if the cap was bad..
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Old 01-11-2016, 05:18 AM
driveit driveit is offline
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Default Re: 2002 Ranger 3.0L Shakes from 2000 to 3000 RPM

Radiator cap? I initially thought that the problem had to do with the throttle body.
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  #7  
Old 01-19-2016, 08:12 PM
archersofloaf archersofloaf is offline
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Default Re: 2002 Ranger 3.0L Shakes from 2000 to 3000 RPM

The coolant was flowing out of the old radiator cap, causing the overflow tank to be empty shortly after filling it each time. The temperature gauge in the truck was giving normal readings though, so I don't believe it was overheating.

Though the truck hasn't been shaking ever since I replaced the radiator cap (about 70 miles ago), I did get a check engine light after about 50 miles. I took it to Pep Boys and they told me it's returning a P1336 code, which from what I can find online has to do with the camshaft position sensor, the crankshaft position sensor, or something mechanical causing one of those sensors to return an error (e.g. the camshaft synchronizer being out of time). Pep Boys cleared the code, and the check engine light came on again after driving for about 15 miles.

As I mentioned in my original post, I replaced the camshaft synchronizer about 1000 miles ago (not the sensor though). When I placed the synchronizer, I was pretty confident that I had put it in the correct position. My procedure was as follows: (1) put the engine at (or at least at what I thought was) TDC, which I took as the point where the "0" degree mark on the harmonic balancer lined up with the little metal triangle/wedge located above (and I believe right-of-center) of the crankshaft position sensor; (2) removed the camshaft position sensor, and then placed the alignment tool on the camshaft synchronizer as a check to make sure it was consistent with what I thought was TDC (it did fit); (3) removed alignment tool; (4) removed old synchronizer; and (5) installed new (and oiled) synchronizer (fitted with alignment cap) into engine. When I placed the synchronizer into the engine, I was off maybe a tooth, and so the synchronizer itself is not in the same position as it originally was (I tried to pull the synchronizer out to redo it, but couldn't get it out). The tab on top of the synchronizer was put back in the same position though (since I used the alignment tool), which I was told is all that matters.

Any thoughts on what the problem could be or what I should next? If I had installed the camshaft synchronizer incorrectly, would it be fine for 1000 miles and then start causing problems after that?

Thanks again.

Last edited by archersofloaf; 01-19-2016 at 09:07 PM.
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  #8  
Old 01-21-2016, 10:50 AM
rangerlocal rangerlocal is offline
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Default Re: 2002 Ranger 3.0L Shakes from 2000 to 3000 RPM

If you bought a knock-off synchronizer, or did not replace the cam sync sensor on top of the synchro, it could very well be having problems that soon.
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  #9  
Old 01-21-2016, 07:00 PM
archersofloaf archersofloaf is offline
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Default Re: 2002 Ranger 3.0L Shakes from 2000 to 3000 RPM

Thanks for chiming in rangerlocal.

I did use a Motorcraft synchronizer, so I'm hoping it hasn't failed yet, but of course you never know. Since I didn't use a knock-off synchronizer, it sounds like you would start with replacing the camshaft position sensor? Are the camshaft sensors known to typically fail after so many miles? Do you think it's more likely to be the camshaft sensor and not the crankshaft sensor?

Thanks again!
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  #10  
Old 01-22-2016, 09:49 PM
archersofloaf archersofloaf is offline
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Default Re: 2002 Ranger 3.0L Shakes from 2000 to 3000 RPM

So I think I know what the problem is now. I decided to inspect the camshaft sensor and the crankshaft sensor today, and saw that one of the bolts on the camshaft sensor was loose, even though I had torqued both of the bolts to spec after I replaced the synchronizer. So I thought I'd unscrew the other camshaft sensor bolt to make sure the sensor is seated correctly and bolts down uniformly. While trying to unscrew that bolt, my camshaft synchronizer began to turn--apparently the bolt that holds the synchronizer down (which I had also torqued to spec) was also loose. So I'm guessing that the synchronizer slightly rotated while driving, causing my timing to be off.

So I think that all I have to do now is set the #1 piston to TDC compression and then use the camshaft synchronizer alignment tool to get the tab in the synchronizer to correspond to TDC compression, and then bolt everything down more snugly.

My problem now is finding TDC. As mentioned before, I originally found TDC by lining up the "0" degree mark on the harmonic balancer with the triangle/wedge located to the right of the crankshaft sensor, and then I verified it was correct by using the alignment tool on the camshaft synchronizer. The triangle/wedge, however, doesn't come to a point, but instead has a flat end that spans maybe 2 to 3 degrees on the harmonic balancer. It wasn't an issue originally since I could use the alignment tool on the synchronizer to verify TDC, but now that my synchronizer has rotated out of position, I can't do that anymore. Does anyone know exactly where the 0 degree mark should be on the flat portion of the triangle/wedge? I think I remember it not being in the center, but I can't remember which edge it should be aligned with (or maybe it was in the center?).

Thanks again.
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