I blew a head gasket on cylinder 5 on my 2001 XLT 3.0L and then overheated. I'm tearing the engine down now and wanted to go ahead and do both sides while I'm in there. I've got 200k on this truck and would like to get another 100k or so. First of all, what items should I rebuild/replace to extend the life of the truck and also, do I have to pull the a/c compressor to get to the driver side head or can I work around it?

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2001 Ford XLT extended cab. 3.0L, a/c, AT, 200k

Sorry I don't have any info for you, but I just want to point out what an apt first post this is with your username.

With 200k, I would do a complete rebuild. Don't forget to replace the cam sync also.

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93 Ranger XL 3.0 V6
-Tint, wheels, K&N filter, Flowmaster super 44.
04 Mustang GT Vert.
-Tons of mods, supercharged 392/393

I am in the middle of this exact procedure. Going on about 2 months that the truck has been down and out (bought it used in present condition).

I'd tell you all the things I'm replacing, but you'd shit a brick.

Just got the heads back from the machine shop this week, they put all new valves and exhaust seats in. Mine were tulip'd.

Getting all new gaskets and seals, new timing chain, new oil pan, new water pump, new radiator and hoses, thermostat, new cam sync. Replacing misc sensors. New motor mounts, new exh manifolds (one was cracked).

Got the trans off also to replace rear main and clutch.

I can tell you that you do *not* have to disconnect the power steering or a/c. Those are still mounted to each other and pushed aside. Working around them hasn't been too much of a problem.

Mine has just over 160k on it but like you I'm hoping to get another 100k+ out of it, which is why I'm going to the lengths I am.

Good luck to you!

Thanks for your input. I am planning to replace most of what you mentioned. So did you pull the whole engine or are you doing all this in place? I've heard several people mention the cam sync. I don't really even know what that is but guess I need to google that. I'm also planning on rebuilding the front end suspension and maybe the brakes eventually but all that depends on whether I get the engine running again.

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2001 Ford XLT extended cab. 3.0L, a/c, AT, 200k

That's the way to do it. I know it's a PITA but all your hard work will pay off for years to come.

The cam sync runs the oil pump. When it goes out, the oil pump stops and motor doesn't get oil and it's bye bye motor.

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93 Ranger XL 3.0 V6
-Tint, wheels, K&N filter, Flowmaster super 44.
04 Mustang GT Vert.
-Tons of mods, supercharged 392/393

I haven't quite figured how to move the PS/AC since it has solid lines attached.
Do I disconnect them? What happens to the Freon? Do I lose all that? I'm hoping to work on that side tomorrow. Maybe it'll more apparent once
I get into it.

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2001 Ford XLT extended cab. 3.0L, a/c, AT, 200k

I didn't disconnect anything except some of the electrical harness to the a/c and p/s. The solid lines don't flex much but it should be enough to move it forward and down toward the drivers side frame rail. The bottom bracket will rest on the front sway bar.

No freon lost.

Does anyone know how to disconnect the vacuum line in this photo?

image-987081011.jpg

The solid line with the disk on it. I'm just not seeing it.

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2001 Ford XLT extended cab. 3.0L, a/c, AT, 200k

Is it not a fuel line ?

oh yeah. Duh! Does it disconnect there or farther down the line?

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2001 Ford XLT extended cab. 3.0L, a/c, AT, 200k

Not sure. I think it takes a special tool like the one used when changing the fuel filter.

You have the disconnect pictured there, actually. follow the metal line, there's a clip over it. You remove the clip, which is a safety lock, and then you use a disconnect tool to spread the prongs and then you can disconnect the fuel rail assembly from the rest of the fuel lines. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE RUBBER!

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2013 Ford Focus SE hatch - My daily driver
2018 Chevy Equinox diesel- Wife's
2001 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0 Supercab Off-Road Stepside - Bunch of stuff.

Bleed off the fuel pressure first. The fuel line removal tool goes over the large side under the disk and is pushed upwards. The tool stretches out the locking spring so it can go over the flared end of the rail connection.

Thanks. I got it off and got the heads off. I'll send them off to the shop and then start the long process of putting this thing back together. Good chance I'll be hollering back at you guys.

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2001 Ford XLT extended cab. 3.0L, a/c, AT, 200k