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  #16  
Old 10-02-2011, 01:01 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: inertia switch

Another one exaggerating a mole hill into a mountain. What's dangerous is you splicing the wires together to bypass a very important and perfectly acceptable safety device. You need to replace it. Not bypass it. The minute percentage of people who experience a malfunction of this device and stall out is not a danger. Your truck being a giant 65psi flame thrower or driving away while you're knocked out is.
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  #17  
Old 10-03-2011, 04:05 AM
Steve Brown Steve Brown is offline
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Default Re: inertia switch

I'll replace the switch and hope it does not fail. It's a crappy design.

Stalling out in traffic is not a mole hill. Try stalling out in the middle of a 5-lane interstate highway in Philadelpia during rush hour, with traffic merging in from both sides, and everyone is in a rush to get where they're going. On a typical day, there are two or three "rubbernecking delays due to an accident being cleared out of the way."
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  #18  
Old 10-03-2011, 04:17 AM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: inertia switch

Well then you might as well park the truck and walk. 'Cause there are many many far more likely things to make your truck and any other car stall out on the highway than the inertia switch.
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  #19  
Old 10-04-2011, 04:12 AM
Steve Brown Steve Brown is offline
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Default Re: inertia switch

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Originally Posted by FireRanger View Post
Well then you might as well park the truck and walk. 'Cause there are many many far more likely things to make your truck and any other car stall out on the highway than the inertia switch.
There is no reason for a well-maintained vehicle with only 23,500 miles on it to stall unless a part or the fuel is defective. This inertia switch has a flawed design, evidenced by all the reports of problems with it.

Last edited by Steve Brown; 10-04-2011 at 04:16 AM.
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  #20  
Old 10-04-2011, 04:23 AM
bdurrant bdurrant is offline
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Default Re: inertia switch

I agree Steve. It Sucked, I live between Balt and Philly. 95 is no place to have a bad switch. I just yanked mine out. The inside of the switch was all but melted away. So I wired the ends together, no more problem! As for parking the truck, Yea, if you have a bad inertia switch, by all means park it. But parking it for all the "what if" problems, that's just an extremely stupid and unneccessary comment.
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  #21  
Old 10-04-2011, 05:09 AM
Steve Brown Steve Brown is offline
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Default Re: inertia switch

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Originally Posted by bdurrant View Post
I agree Steve. It Sucked, I live between Balt and Philly. 95 is no place to have a bad switch. I just yanked mine out. The inside of the switch was all but melted away. So I wired the ends together, no more problem! As for parking the truck, Yea, if you have a bad inertia switch, by all means park it. But parking it for all the "what if" problems, that's just an extremely stupid and unneccessary comment.
Bert, my question to you is, if/when I replace this switch myself, does the wiring have a connector that plugs into the switch? If so, can I just pull the wiring and the connector out of the switch, or does the connector have a latch that has to be pinched before it will release?
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  #22  
Old 10-04-2011, 06:23 AM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: inertia switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Brown View Post
There is no reason for a well-maintained vehicle with only 23,500 miles on it to stall unless a part or the fuel is defective. This inertia switch has a flawed design, evidenced by all the reports of problems with it.
And there are many many parts on a vehicle, any of which can fail. Vehicles of all ages break down all the time for lots of reasons. It doesn't matter how many miles or what year it is. Malfunctions happen. You replace the defective part. And you go on your way. Exaggerating the problem into something it isn't doesn't help or change anything.

If you want a vehicle that never has any problems, never breaks down, and won't get stuck in traffic, I again suggest you get a nice pair of shoes and start walking.
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  #23  
Old 10-05-2011, 03:58 AM
bdurrant bdurrant is offline
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Default Re: inertia switch

Under the carpet on the front firewall of the passengers side is the switch. it has 2 wires that go into it from the bottom. the wires have connectors on them so that they can attach to the interior of the switch. To be honest, mine was so melted that I couldn't tell how it was actually supposed to work. I just cracked the housing of the switch open because after it cooled off it was extremely brittle. I then cut the connectors off of the wires, bared them, twisted them together and taped them good. I haven't stalled since. I've been driving for 40 years without a fuel shut off, and I'm still alive. I should be good for a few more.
Before I found the problem I had it to the shop and was quoted $700 to replace the Fuel Pump. I'm betting that if the problem would have been fixed by them it would have been the same thing I did but charged for the pump. if the pump would have been replaced I wouldn't have gotten 1 mile from the shop. it was stalling about every block. Be carefull, I know the shops aren't so stupid that they don't know this problem. so they SCAM the unaware. Personally, I've lost all faith in the Auto Mechanic industry thelast few years. Every simple repair ends up a SCAM on their part.
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  #24  
Old 10-05-2011, 05:21 AM
Steve Brown Steve Brown is offline
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Default Re: inertia switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by bdurrant View Post
Under the carpet on the front firewall of the passengers side is the switch. it has 2 wires that go into it from the bottom. the wires have connectors on them so that they can attach to the interior of the switch. To be honest, mine was so melted that I couldn't tell how it was actually supposed to work. I just cracked the housing of the switch open because after it cooled off it was extremely brittle. I then cut the connectors off of the wires, bared them, twisted them together and taped them good. I haven't stalled since. I've been driving for 40 years without a fuel shut off, and I'm still alive. I should be good for a few more.
Before I found the problem I had it to the shop and was quoted $700 to replace the Fuel Pump. I'm betting that if the problem would have been fixed by them it would have been the same thing I did but charged for the pump. if the pump would have been replaced I wouldn't have gotten 1 mile from the shop. it was stalling about every block. Be carefull, I know the shops aren't so stupid that they don't know this problem. so they SCAM the unaware. Personally, I've lost all faith in the Auto Mechanic industry thelast few years. Every simple repair ends up a SCAM on their part.
Bert, is that a Ford dealer who told you the fuel pump is bad? I had my truck towed to the local Ford dealer after it wouldn't start, and they diagnosed the problem correctly as a tripped inertia switch. The technician reset the switch and test drove the truck for 8 miles and couldn't get it to fail. As it was in the shop, I had them do the multi-point checkup and replace the fuel filter. The truck stalled once since then, requiring an inertia switch reset, so I'll probably replace it myself. I'm not happy with the design of this switch, and I may install a bypass switch across it, a toggle switch on the dashboard I can hit if the truck stalls in traffic. The bypass switch would normally be off, allowing the inertia switch to function in an accident. Thanks for your help.

Last edited by Steve Brown; 10-05-2011 at 05:49 AM.
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  #25  
Old 10-05-2011, 05:45 AM
Steve Brown Steve Brown is offline
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Default Re: inertia switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by FireRanger View Post
And there are many many parts on a vehicle, any of which can fail. Vehicles of all ages break down all the time for lots of reasons. It doesn't matter how many miles or what year it is. Malfunctions happen. You replace the defective part. And you go on your way. Exaggerating the problem into something it isn't doesn't help or change anything.

If you want a vehicle that never has any problems, never breaks down, and won't get stuck in traffic, I again suggest you get a nice pair of shoes and start walking.
Of all the components that keep the engine running, this inertia switch is the weak link. I know it is important to you to "win" the argument, because you imagine yourself to be king of the Ford Ranger forum, so you will reply with another smartass comment that I need a good pair of walking shoes. Go ahead, but I won't waste my time reading it.

Last edited by Steve Brown; 10-05-2011 at 05:52 AM.
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  #26  
Old 10-05-2011, 06:08 AM
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Default

No not really. Just trying to quell your unrealistic fears and unsubstantiated claims. But whatever you say.

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  #27  
Old 10-07-2011, 12:52 PM
bigdombzig bigdombzig is offline
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Default Re: inertia switch

I have been dealing with this problem in my 2005 ranger since may. I solution was a paper clip that is hooked into the factory harness. The major problem that I have read about the factory wiring to the switch is the heat that is made from the current. This melts the connections in the switch and over time will destroy the switch and the pigtail. The only way to fix this solution would to be use a larger gauge wire of make the harness longer...or both.

As fair as the switch goes...I have not had a problem with the truck since my paper clip mod. The only problem is if I hit a large bump, then the clip falls out. So really I have a super cheap kill switch.

After looking at the prices of the switches and the pigtails (average price 120), I have decided to bypass the switch. I have been doing this for 6 months and no problems. I would rather do this then waste 120 bucks when the new unit melts.

As far as the "danger" of not having a a kill switch...How many vehicles run off as a speeding "fire Ball" after a wreck. I have seen a lot of wrecks, and never once have I seen that. The only vehicle I have seen catch on fire due to a wreck was caused from the plastic wires in the engine bay being pushed up against the header of the motor. The heat from the header caused the fire. In this case or any case of a fire in the engine bay, the kill switch is not going to drain the fuel line. Also this wreck happened at extreme speeds. THe impact of at 65 70 mph wreck would stop any engine from running. A wreck at 30-35 mph would not cause a fire in modern cars. SO I really believe that the run away fire ball vehicle is not going to happen anytime soon, and I believe that bypassing the kill switch is not going to be as dangerous as some would believe. Probably just as dangerous as the number of stall outs in traffic
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  #28  
Old 10-07-2011, 04:36 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: inertia switch

Your paperclip mod is worse than the switch and is a danger to you and everyone else on the road. But congrats, you saved a few bucks.

The plug will melt if the switch is defective. The added resistance of the defective switch creates the heat. It is not inadequate wiring. This happens to any defective or broken electrical device/connection.

Have I seen fire from a fuel pump that didn't shut off? Yes I have. Only once. Because everyone else had a working inertia switch so it was shut off.
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Last edited by FireRanger; 10-07-2011 at 04:51 PM.
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  #29  
Old 10-07-2011, 05:30 PM
djfllmn djfllmn is offline
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Default Re: inertia switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by FireRanger View Post

Have I seen fire from a fuel pump that didn't shut off? Yes I have. Only once. Because everyone else had a working inertia switch so it was shut off.
x2...ford put them in there vehicles for a reason...when i was hit in my car the switch tripped...all i had to to was push the red button and i was driving again...the #1 danger of an accident is a post crash fire especially if youre trapped or knocked out
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  #30  
Old 10-07-2011, 06:02 PM
OhioMike OhioMike is offline
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Default Re: inertia switch

Wow, I hope to not jinx myself, but I never heard of this problem being as rampant as it may be. I've heard of people unintentionally bumping it but still. At least if something happens, I know what to do.
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