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  #1  
Old 02-23-2015, 06:46 AM
ebuc ebuc is offline
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I just got 93, 3.0 Ranger with rebuilt tranny--- just outside warranty ---. First off drove 3.5 hrs in pouring raing to look a this truck, and decided to buy it because it started fine motor does sound really good. not like the sounds in my 4 cylinder Toyota first timming chain stuff was going bad.

I have good ear for bad sounds in a motor.

Small leak around linkage bolt that goes into tranny.

Used half quart motor oil in 100 miles, laying on ground appears to be around head or head gasket passenger side rear, so I put in new oil and wix filter, and 1 quart slick 50..Oops.....

Oh well, maybe the slick 50 PTFE's will clogg the leaks..

He said it had relatively new plugs and wires, so I only I bought cap and rotor...but have not yet check to see condition of old ones.

The air filter is fairly clean no problem seeing throug it

Has only stalled twice when coming to a stop in my first 400 or miles or so, and mechanic looked at idler air controller but it was clean. He hooked OBD 1--- :--( ---computer to it it and he said it need O2 sensor so I purchased one, but by time computer reset itself, he said he was no longer getting code for O2 sensor.

It starts fine, but I do turn key a few times to make sure fuel is pumped to injectors, cause has been 10 seconds sometimes to fire.

So to get a base line, I hope to eventually get to pulling plugs verify their condition and maybe get compression test, but meanwhile, replace cap and rotor and O2 sensor. Never had truck with auto tranny, and it does appear sluggeish to me, but not surprised if compression will be low, just hope its relatively even all cylinders. Surprised speedometer only goes to 85 mph. Maybe geared for pulling tho it does have the overdrive, I think.

Keeping idle air controler in mind, but on back burner, I need to understand more about these cam shaft syncroniszers I been hearing about. Do they make sound in motor if going bad?

Maybe I should just buy a good quality one and install-- will have to look at my Haynes manual --as a baseline. I think I read they can actually cause damage if they go bad???? I dont wont that, so maybe better get on top of that one !

Charge needle goes to zero but slap top of dash and it works again--- loose connection behind there.

Gas gauge is skewed but does work.

Lots to learn, and hope to get pictures of it next to me 97 Escort with a power pack. Can I and should replace rotor and cap distrubutor with power pack distributor????

It all takes time to get know a vehicles idiosycnhricies....

A T trailer wiring harness is due to come in mail, so I can haul my 5x8 trailer.

ebuc
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2/2015 $2000., 93 Ford Ranger, Ext. Cab, VE 3.0( Vulcan ) A4LD(?) Auto Trans.. 161000K(?), First job was in Pure/Union 76 serivce station, IL, much older now and do any and all Handy Man Jack of all trades type work.

Last edited by ebuc; 02-23-2015 at 06:52 AM.
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  #2  
Old 02-23-2015, 08:53 AM
GLH GLH is offline
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If you have a distributor, you don't have a camshaft synchronizer. The rear main seal might be leaking, per your description. A quart every 200 miles is excessive.
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  #3  
Old 02-23-2015, 09:07 AM
TerrenceStuart TerrenceStuart is offline
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Paying $2000 for a 22 year old ranger 2wd 3.0 with 161,000 miles (per your sig.) is paying waaay too much. My 14 year old ranger 4.0 SOHC 4x4 with 111,000 miles is only worth around $3,000.
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  #4  
Old 02-23-2015, 10:28 AM
tomboy tomboy is offline
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The oil leak could be from the oil sending unit, its behind the right head, just in front of where the trans bolts. There are a few other things to watch for, if the head gaskets haven't failed yet, they are due, and watch for a coolant leak, just under the alt, where the timing cover mates to the engine. But if the body is really good, and you like the truck, then don't worry about what you paid for it.
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Old 02-23-2015, 03:31 PM
GLH GLH is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomboy View Post
The oil leak could be from the oil sending unit, its behind the right head, just in front of where the trans bolts. There are a few other things to watch for, if the head gaskets haven't failed yet, they are due, and watch for a coolant leak, just under the alt, where the timing cover mates to the engine. But if the body is really good, and you like the truck, then don't worry about what you paid for it.
Which is the 'right head', driver or passenger side ?
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  #6  
Old 02-24-2015, 11:03 AM
Prages Prages is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLH View Post
Which is the 'right head', driver or passenger side ?
Passenger side.

Unless you're in a right hand drive vehicle.

The side of the vehicle is from the perspective of sitting in the driver's seat facing forward.
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  #7  
Old 02-24-2015, 04:52 PM
ebuc ebuc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLH View Post
If you have a distributor, you don't have a camshaft synchronizer. The rear main seal might be leaking, per your description. A quart every 200 miles is excessive.
I have cap and rotor distributer, if that is what you mean, so I dont have a cam synchronizer.

Are you also saying that a power pack does not have a distrubtor? H,mmmm I didnt known that.

Thx. Lookes like on less thing consider.

ebuc

----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomboy View Post
The oil leak could be from the oil sending unit, its behind the right head, just in front of where the trans bolts. There are a few other things to watch for, if the head gaskets haven't failed yet, they are due, and watch for a coolant leak, just under the alt, where the timing cover mates to the engine. But if the body is really good, and you like the truck, then don't worry about what you paid for it.
Ahh, good tip to look for and yes it does appear to be on passenger side of the vehicle. The body has two minor dents and minor rust. Good tip on head gaskets and to watch for coolant leak under alternator on passenger side.

Temp gauges is slow to rise, tho heat comes on per usual of any vehicle Ive owned, but the temp gauge only sometimes will get to the "N" in normal.

I think when it idles for awhile it goes to N.

Thanks for all the tips. Im still of two minds of whether to dump the slick-50 oil change or put a few hundred miles to see if it helps retard the leak.

Thx again.

Ebuc

----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by machine View Post
Paying $2000 for a 22 year old ranger 2wd 3.0 with 161,000 miles (per your sig.) is paying waaay too much. My 14 year old ranger 4.0 SOHC 4x4 with 111,000 miles is only worth around $3,000.
He had paper work on a rebuitl trany at $1295., new battery, new rotor and caliber, not nearly as rustey as my 90 Toyata I abused for 18 years ;--{ one tough truck }---ans after 3 weeks of looking and my circumstances, it is similar to the $300, too much a paid for my 97 Escort wagon, sometimes we will pay more to get what we want that again or based on our specific set of circumstances.

I owned an 89 Ranger briefly in early 90s that I used to haul a trailer camper 800 miles and several manure loads and I love that truck as it was nicest thing Ive ever owned at the time, but the oil pressure dropping, back n forth wiggling and knock-a-knock-knock, even after Ford dealer said they replaced oil puump, forced me to unload it for the Toyoata.

So Im happy to be back to ranger even if its is only 3 years newer from last ranger. Power steering is nice and easier on my shoulder joints

Thx, Ebuc
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2/2015 $2000., 93 Ford Ranger, Ext. Cab, VE 3.0( Vulcan ) A4LD(?) Auto Trans.. 161000K(?), First job was in Pure/Union 76 serivce station, IL, much older now and do any and all Handy Man Jack of all trades type work.

Last edited by ebuc; 02-24-2015 at 04:43 PM.
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