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  #1  
Old 04-27-2010, 01:04 PM
es44ac es44ac is offline
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Default Help With Bad Seafoam Experience

I recently seafoamed my ranger, put some in fuel tank, some in crankcase and a little in the brake booster line. Started hearing this "squealing noise" from the back/top of the engine. Hasn't gone away, its been about 3-400 miles since....I changed the oil after about 200 miles. noise usually starts a few seconds after being started. Does anyone no what this noise might be? Know how to fix it? i was thinking of putting some marvel mystery oil through brake booster line, just a little......Its like a revolving noise, gets faster with acceleration...Any help will be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 04-27-2010, 02:50 PM
DHEM DHEM is offline
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Default Re: Help With Bad Seafoam Experience

is it more like a chirping noise? It could be a bad cam syncro
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  #3  
Old 04-27-2010, 05:18 PM
Ranger01 Ranger01 is offline
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Default Re: Help With Bad Seafoam Experience

Serpentine Belt?
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  #4  
Old 04-27-2010, 05:46 PM
Shep Shep is offline
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Default Re: Help With Bad Seafoam Experience

Does it sound like a bird chirpin? If so I hade the same issue with my truck it was the Camshaft Syncroniser like Tom said, its not to hard to change yourself. I think it cost's about $90 or so.
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2001 Ford Ranger Edge Plus 3.0L 4X2
Installed rear 2" block's, Cranked T-bars, 3" body lift, Goodyear Duratrac 33X12.5X15, Aluminiam Ion 15X10 Rims, Crane 1.72 roller rockers, K&N intake, 3" Cat Back Custome Exhaust, 8.8 rear end, 4.10 gears, detroit locker.

In process danna 35, M5R1 4x4 tranns, NP205 devorced T-Case, front 4X4 spindles, SkyJacker coil over shocks front and rear.
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  #5  
Old 04-30-2010, 02:41 PM
es44ac es44ac is offline
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Default Re: Help With Bad Seafoam Experience

yes its a chirping noise....now, how do i get that synchronizer out.....i got the sensor off and the bolt that holds it in out....the magnet thing is in the open space where sensor sits......is that the tdc? i had the alignment tool....now i don't.....it hasn't been a good day
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  #6  
Old 04-30-2010, 04:02 PM
Shep Shep is offline
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Default Re: Help With Bad Seafoam Experience

See if this will help you out any its what I used to do mine.

The cam synchronizer is a common failure item in Vulcans, with a working life typically between 80-100k miles. It usually doesn't seem to do any damage if caught in time, but as the gear at the bottom of the synchronizer drives the oil pump it could (worst case scenario) theoretically destroy an engine.

There are two causes for the failure. The first seems to be exclusive to the hall effect version of the sensor, (up to 1997), where a piece of the magnetic tab that sits on the underside of the top of the sensor breaks off and damages the vane (metal tab that sticks up out of the rotating assembly that the sensor reads) that is used to time the engine; this will throw a CEL as the sensor is no longer functioning. The second applies to all vulcans and is what actually causes the chirping, it seems that the rotating assembly in the synchro does not recieve proper lubrication and the bearings start to fail. In either case the synchro itself will have to be replaced, and it's usually a good idea to replace the (cheap) sensor while you're at it.

The problem manifests itself a chirping coming from the transmission (driver) side of the engine. It can be very hard to pinpoint, when mine started to fail the sound appeared to come from different places as I moved around the engine bay. When my mechanic took a stethoscopey thingy to my engine bay, he concluded that it was ghosts and I should "come back if it gets worse". From reading posts on here, and my own experience, the chirping responds to RPMs, most pronounced at idle and eventually drone out to a whine at driving speed. It also seems to be affected by heat and humidity. Mine stopped making noise (when it got cooler outside) the better part of a year before I replaced it, but I suspect that if I hadn't it would have started again when it got hot.

There's a cheap way to replace the assembly, and an expensive way. From what I've read on here, dealers/mechanics will charge $150-$170 for the assembly, as well as 3-4 hours of labor for the replacement. I found the part (Dorman#689-107 for my 02') on RockAuto for $40 and it took me an hour to install it. RockAuto's catalog will guide you to the correct part. For mine, it was listed under camshaft synchronizer, but I have read about it possibly being listed as a distributor for earlier years. The actual replacement of the part is as simple as undoing 1 clamping bolt, removing the old assembly and installing the new one. The most time consuming part for me was cutting the plastic tray that guided the wire bundle that ran directly overtop of the assembly so that I could even get to the synchro. Whether you are comfortable with doing this yourself will depend on how stubborn you are, and whether you think you're up to digging your way to the sensor/synchro. That's the hard part.

There is some risk to doing it yourself, but only if you do it incorrectly. The cam synchronizer is integral to engine timing, and if the new assembly is not installed with the exact same orientation as the original some serious damage could occur. Luckily, it's not that easy to mess up if you pay attention. The teeth on the bottom of the synchronizer are big enough that the vane rotates approx 10 degrees for each tooth. After removing the sensor from the top of the assembly and before touching the clamping nut that secures the synchro; if you mark the relative position of the synchronizer body on the block, and mark the position of the vane on the synchro body you can install the new synchro in the exact same position. If you make accurate marks and pay attention, it will be obvious if you are off. I replaced mine with this method and have driven approx 150 miles since without a CEL to be seen, nor a squeak to be heard.


Good luck, I saved myself several hundred dollars doing this myself with information gleaned from the TCCA. Even if you choose to have a mechanic or dealer do the replacement, diagnosis and correction of this issue could save you some money and trouble in the long run.
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2001 Ford Ranger Edge Plus 3.0L 4X2
Installed rear 2" block's, Cranked T-bars, 3" body lift, Goodyear Duratrac 33X12.5X15, Aluminiam Ion 15X10 Rims, Crane 1.72 roller rockers, K&N intake, 3" Cat Back Custome Exhaust, 8.8 rear end, 4.10 gears, detroit locker.

In process danna 35, M5R1 4x4 tranns, NP205 devorced T-Case, front 4X4 spindles, SkyJacker coil over shocks front and rear.
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  #7  
Old 05-01-2010, 11:26 AM
es44ac es44ac is offline
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Default Re: Help With Bad Seafoam Experience

yesterday while working on it, i spent more time digging my head from my rear end......they make two synchronizers for that ford...can't remember what the name difference is...the big difference in the two is the electrical connection won't fit on one of them.....so i got it changed out wasn't much of a problem once i realized.....then i lost the alignment tooll......and yes my engine is missing a little......check engine light on....autozone said missfire on the reader....i'm gonna readjust it today......do i have to worry about getting it top dead center? seems like if you take it out and put it right back in the same position it would be the same..... thanks everyone for help and the advice, hopefully oneday i can return the favor....
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  #8  
Old 05-01-2010, 11:47 AM
Shep Shep is offline
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Default Re: Help With Bad Seafoam Experience

Ya you should put it top dead center. Its easy just pull the #1 spark plug and have someone turn the engine over quick not starting it just a short turn and wait till you fell the blast of air come out then stop it should be top dead center then. Thats how i always do it when I need to get the engine top dead center and the heads ar still on. Its very easy to do it might take you a few trys to get it at first.
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2001 Ford Ranger Edge Plus 3.0L 4X2
Installed rear 2" block's, Cranked T-bars, 3" body lift, Goodyear Duratrac 33X12.5X15, Aluminiam Ion 15X10 Rims, Crane 1.72 roller rockers, K&N intake, 3" Cat Back Custome Exhaust, 8.8 rear end, 4.10 gears, detroit locker.

In process danna 35, M5R1 4x4 tranns, NP205 devorced T-Case, front 4X4 spindles, SkyJacker coil over shocks front and rear.
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  #9  
Old 09-16-2010, 01:36 PM
es44ac es44ac is offline
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Default Re: Help With Bad Seafoam Experience

Ok, its been a while, i didn't quite get the timing right on the ranger. and now i can hear a ping/knock from the oil pan every few seconds . i know i have to fix the timing, so i'm guessing one should fix the other? Any more advice on getting timing right would be appreciated. i didn't make a mark the first time i took off the synchronizer...
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