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  #31  
Old 03-12-2014, 04:24 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extramedium View Post
Figured I'd update this thread given the events of the day.

For the last week my truck has been running great. Best gas mileage I've had since i bought it, the most horsepower, and generally running cleaner. When the engine is cold, there is still white smoke, but very little. As soon as it's warmed up, no trace of anything, and that's after 2 full tanks of gas has been through it.

I thought I'd get ahead of the game by ordering new oxygen sensors (all 3). They're en route now from RockAuto. Thanks for the advice Bob.

Today while doing some errands I noticed my fuel gauge kind of bouncing around. I've noticed in the past going uphill makes it seem more full, while going downhill is the opposite. Today it was all over the place, very erratic. Then while coming home from dinner my f***ing check engine light came on again. DAMMIT! Nothing happened with the behavior of the engine. Still running great...

Haven't had a chance to get the codes checked, but I'm guessing it is the fuel pump. Seems like the last month, everything is going bad... The only good thing about this stuff all happening is when I'm done with this next project (given no strange electrical problems) I shouldn't have anything else to change for 100k or more.

Question for the experts... There are 2 different Motorcraft fuel pumps at RockAuto. One says 126.0' wheelbase Flex, and the other says 118.0' Wheelbase. I'm going to ask Ford, but which one do I need to use? The Flex one I'm guessing?

TL;DR Truck is running great. Prior problems fixed. New problems surfaced today.
I would suggest you stop throwing parts at it. You need a code reader. Do a fuel pressure test. Measure from the center of one wheel to the center of the other. That is your wheelbase in inches. What Cab and bed do you have?

----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by extramedium View Post
Figured I'd update this thread given the events of the day.

For the last week my truck has been running great. Best gas mileage I've had since i bought it, the most horsepower, and generally running cleaner. When the engine is cold, there is still white smoke, but very little. As soon as it's warmed up, no trace of anything, and that's after 2 full tanks of gas has been through it.

I thought I'd get ahead of the game by ordering new oxygen sensors (all 3). They're en route now from RockAuto. Thanks for the advice Bob.

Today while doing some errands I noticed my fuel gauge kind of bouncing around. I've noticed in the past going uphill makes it seem more full, while going downhill is the opposite. Today it was all over the place, very erratic. Then while coming home from dinner my f***ing check engine light came on again. DAMMIT! Nothing happened with the behavior of the engine. Still running great...

Haven't had a chance to get the codes checked, but I'm guessing it is the fuel pump. Seems like the last month, everything is going bad... The only good thing about this stuff all happening is when I'm done with this next project (given no strange electrical problems) I shouldn't have anything else to change for 100k or more.

Question for the experts... There are 2 different Motorcraft fuel pumps at RockAuto. One says 126.0' wheelbase Flex, and the other says 118.0' Wheelbase. I'm going to ask Ford, but which one do I need to use? The Flex one I'm guessing?

TL;DR Truck is running great. Prior problems fixed. New problems surfaced today.
I would suggest you stop throwing parts at it. You need a code reader. Do a fuel pressure test. Measure from the center of one wheel to the center of the other. That is your wheelbase in inches. What Cab and bed do you have?
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #32  
Old 03-12-2014, 10:40 AM
extramedium extramedium is offline
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Default Re: 2000 3.0 FFV 2WD White Smoke and Rough Idle

Yeah, I already told you what the last set of codes were. Which were fixed.

As I said, the truck is running great... Better than ever. You want me to buy a code reader, yet you don't think I should be wasting money buying new parts? Isn't it ironic... Dontcha think?

I'll have the guys at O'rielly's check them for me for free, like last time. One thing is for certain. They will be different this time. When I changed my heads it eliminated 3 other problems the truck was having... Then after changing out the sensors, and valves I replaced after that, all problems were eliminated. This is something new. New symptoms, new troubleshooting measures, and different parts needed.

I think your advice sucks, straight up. BTW, weren't you going to NOT post in this thread anymore? That be super duper. Thanks! (In my best Officespace Bill Lumberg voice)
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  #33  
Old 03-12-2014, 10:44 AM
rangerlocal rangerlocal is offline
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Default Re: 2000 3.0 FFV 2WD White Smoke and Rough Idle

I'm wearing an office space shirt right now...just sayin'.
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  #34  
Old 03-12-2014, 10:50 AM
Yeller Yeller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extramedium View Post
Yeah, I already told you what the last set of codes were. Which were fixed. As I said, the truck is running great... Better than ever. You want me to buy a code reader, yet you don't think I should be wasting money buying new parts? Isn't it ironic... Dontcha think? I'll have the guys at O'rielly's check them for me for free, like last time. One thing is for certain. They will be different this time. When I changed my heads it eliminated 3 other problems the truck was having... Then after changing out the sensors, and valves I replaced after that, all problems were eliminated. This is something new. New symptoms, new troubleshooting measures, and different parts needed. I think your advice sucks, straight up. BTW, weren't you going to NOT post in this thread anymore? That be super duper. Thanks! (In my best Officespace Bill Lumberg voice)
Well stated.
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  #35  
Old 03-12-2014, 11:20 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extramedium View Post
Yeah, I already told you what the last set of codes were. Which were fixed.

As I said, the truck is running great... Better than ever. You want me to buy a code reader, yet you don't think I should be wasting money buying new parts? Isn't it ironic... Dontcha think?

I'll have the guys at O'rielly's check them for me for free, like last time. One thing is for certain. They will be different this time. When I changed my heads it eliminated 3 other problems the truck was having... Then after changing out the sensors, and valves I replaced after that, all problems were eliminated. This is something new. New symptoms, new troubleshooting measures, and different parts needed.

I think your advice sucks, straight up. BTW, weren't you going to NOT post in this thread anymore? That be super duper. Thanks! (In my best Officespace Bill Lumberg voice)
I don't have time for TV. You are falling into the waterboys trap. The WB's are into gossiping, throwing parts and gossiping. I however am into learning about repairing these trucks. It worked out so well for me that i just financed a guy who is wholesaling used vehicles. He has a Yota tech working for him. I'll show the tech the thread and see if he thinks i got it right. I have to admit they get a chuckle out of you guys when i show them the threads.

You are spending more on gas in one trip to Oriellys then you would on a scanner. That is not very bright.

Yeller is the DB that trolled your thread earlier. As you can see he never adds anything worth while.
__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #36  
Old 03-12-2014, 11:25 AM
Yeller Yeller is offline
Wow.So cobra.Very Ranger.
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modelageek View Post
I don't have time for TV. You are falling into the waterboys trap. The WB's are into gossiping, throwing parts and gossiping. I however am into learning about repairing these trucks. It worked out so well for me that i just financed a guy who is wholesaling used vehicles. He has a Yota tech working for him. I'll show the tech the thread and see if he thinks i got it right. I have to admit they get a chuckle out of you guys when i show them the threads. You are spending more on gas in one trip to Oriellys then you would on a scanner. That is not very bright. Yeller is the DB that trolled your thread earlier. As you can see he never adds anything worth while.
Bro you mad.

If OP has what he wants to do, why try and change his mind? His truck, not yours.
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  #37  
Old 03-12-2014, 11:37 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeller View Post

Bro you mad.

If OP has what he wants to do, why try and change his mind? His truck, not yours.
Yeller. I would never let someone like you get me mad. That would be embarrassing.

----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by extramedium View Post
Yeah, I already told you what the last set of codes were. Which were fixed.

As I said, the truck is running great... Better than ever. You want me to buy a code reader, yet you don't think I should be wasting money buying new parts? Isn't it ironic... Dontcha think?

I'll have the guys at O'rielly's check them for me for free, like last time. One thing is for certain. They will be different this time. When I changed my heads it eliminated 3 other problems the truck was having... Then after changing out the sensors, and valves I replaced after that, all problems were eliminated. This is something new. New symptoms, new troubleshooting measures, and different parts needed.

I think your advice sucks, straight up. BTW, weren't you going to NOT post in this thread anymore? That be super duper. Thanks! (In my best Officespace Bill Lumberg voice)
Extramedium. It sounds like you are more of the WB type. I thought maybe you were someone that wanted to learn to do like the Pros. I must have been wrong. Unsubbed.
__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #38  
Old 03-12-2014, 12:26 PM
extramedium extramedium is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modelageek View Post

Yeller. I would never let someone like you get me mad. That would be embarrassing.

----------

Extramedium. It sounds like you are more of the WB type. I thought maybe you were someone that wanted to learn to do like the Pros. I must have been wrong. Unsubbed.
Great. Second time you've said you're done posting in here. You're embarrassing yourself, hos. O'reillys is literally 1 block from my house. I drive by it before, and after work every day.

You don't come off as someone who "wants to learn" at all. You strike me as an insecure know it all wannabe, who can't wait to teach in a subject you yourself just learned about just so you can pat yourself on the back and say crap like, "See, I told you so."

Your posting comes off in an authoritative posture as though you are an expert. You're not. I already proved why on the second page of this thread. Your diagnostic skills are non existent, and your advice sucks.

Everything people say to me here gets checked in the technician manual. It would be impossible to troll that manual. That's all I have to say to you...

Back on track, the truck ran great this morning, again. I'll "stop by O'reillys on my way home" to have my codes read FOR FREE. I'll update this thread then. Fairly certain the fuel pump is on its way out. The fuel gage is bouncing around like crazy. That is read on the fuel pump, no? No other symptoms to note.
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  #39  
Old 03-31-2014, 08:13 AM
garo24 garo24 is offline
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Default Re: 2000 3.0 FFV 2WD White Smoke and Rough Idle

Any updates on this? Fuel pump? What about the FF sensor?
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  #40  
Old 04-01-2014, 09:49 AM
extramedium extramedium is offline
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Default Re: 2000 3.0 FFV 2WD White Smoke and Rough Idle

Quote:
Originally Posted by garo24 View Post
Any updates on this? Fuel pump? What about the FF sensor?
I've been really busy. Hard for me to keep up with everything going on right now. Starting a business, remodeling my house, and going to school. When I get home it's curtains these last couple weeks.

When I was rebuilding my engine, I ordered all three oxygen sensors, a Screamin' Demon coil pack, and Live Wires. I had to disconnect my battery to install them, which reset the codes. Haven't seen anything since I installed those, and it's been running great. I got 375 miles to a tank, picked up a little bit of power, and focused on other things.

The white smoke is almost all the way gone. There is a small amount during warm up, then nothing. I did get a fuel pump. I just haven't had the time to install it, and didn't see a reason to... yet.

I'm planning on using this truck for a business that will require a lot of miles. I wouldn't recommend going about things this way for most people. The thing is with me, time is money, and I'd rather not deal with the diagnosing. I'm replacing things that will go bad sooner or later, and rather than waiting for them to go, I'm just changing stuff out. Next up is the fuel pump. Not that it's bad, I just don't want to deal with it when I'm out on the road.

As for the flex fuel sensor, I didn't see a need for it... yet. If that changes, I'll update the thread.
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  #41  
Old 04-17-2014, 10:31 PM
pomonabill221 pomonabill221 is offline
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Default Re: 2000 3.0 FFV 2WD White Smoke and Rough Idle

Just read this whole thread and must say that you REALLY did a ton of work!

The white smoke (although just a little) kinda tells me that the valve stem seals might be leaking BUT you installed a new head so that suggestion doesn't make sense! hhmmm...

Anyway, the thing that caught my eye about your fuel gauge and pump.... the ground wire for the tank and pump (they are one common wire), runs through a pair of connectors right around where the bed meets the cab.

I watched a video from scannerdanner about a ranger with low fuel pressure and the ground wire was all but broken!

Water had gotten into the wire and corroded the copper to the point where only one or two strands were still connected and couldn't carry the full current for the pump and the gauge, and when the parking lights were turned on, the fuel pump would not run and the fuel pressure would drop. This was due to the parking/brake light current drawing additional current through the same wire.

Not saying that this may be your problem, but it might be worth checking out the wire bundles under the bed/cab.

I had a problem with my truck (99 Ranger XLT 4 door), where the hot wire to the pump was rubbing on the bed because it was too long, and actually rubbed through the insulation and shorted out, blowing the fuel pump fuse! INSTANT engine turn off!!

Happened at work so wasn't real convenient, but when do these things happen??
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  #42  
Old 08-24-2018, 07:29 PM
BGHawk BGHawk is offline
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Default Re: 2000 3.0 FFV 2WD White Smoke and Rough Idle

Hi there, I might have a solution to the problem. I had the exact same symtoms. I finally pulled a few plugs and found one plug the ceramic was cracked, replacing the plug solved the problem. Hope that will help you.

----------

Didn't know the thread was so old..but, it still applies.
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