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  #16  
Old 01-19-2014, 10:01 AM
jjvm90 jjvm90 is offline
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Default Re: p1071 and p1074

I dont have access to a scan tool and I have not cleaned my injectors or checked fuel pressure but wouldnt a new fuel pump solve that? I will start with the injectors and go from there thank you, Also off topic question I have this damn engine squeel I cant seem to get rid of, I replaced the belt with a gatorback,new idler and tension pulley, sprayed other pulleys with liquid wrench and I still have a stupid squeek, It goes away under load and seems to squeek more when cold and only at about 1100 rpm and below any ideas?
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  #17  
Old 01-19-2014, 10:08 AM
RangerSchool RangerSchool is offline
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Im sure its installed correct everywhere but I lost a bolt that kind of braces the Intake from underneath but its before the maf and is small screw size ill get a new one and start there, its not over oiled and I let it dry a day before putting it back on
If it's your injectors I will eat them for lunch!
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  #18  
Old 01-19-2014, 10:12 AM
SmokinRZ SmokinRZ is offline
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Default Re: p1071 and p1074

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I Also off topic question I have this damn engine squeel I cant seem to get rid of, I replaced the belt with a gatorback,new idler and tension pulley, sprayed other pulleys with liquid wrench and I still have a stupid squeek, It goes away under load and seems to squeek more when cold and only at about 1100 rpm and below any ideas?
Make sure it's not your cam syncronizer at the back of the motor. This could cause you to lose oil pressure.
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  #19  
Old 01-19-2014, 11:16 AM
jjvm90 jjvm90 is offline
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Default Re: p1071 and p1074

I keep thinking the MAF is bad, when I unplug it when idling It does not run any worse even if Im gassing it still runs the same if not slightly better and wont stall..does this make any sense
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  #20  
Old 01-19-2014, 12:00 PM
jjvm90 jjvm90 is offline
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Default Re: p1071 and p1074

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Make sure it's not your cam syncronizer at the back of the motor. This could cause you to lose oil pressure.
I think you're right I placed a stethoscope on the camshaft sensor and the squeak was way closer also when I put pressure on it the pitch of the chirp changed do you think this is enough info to go ahead and replace it? Also I heard you can fuck up your engine if not done correct how hard is it?

going with motorcraft for the sensor and synchronizer, 115$ for both on amazon, Do I need the special tool for an extra 20 ?
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Last edited by jjvm90; 01-19-2014 at 12:26 PM.
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  #21  
Old 01-19-2014, 02:04 PM
RangerSchool RangerSchool is offline
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Your truck has been neglected. The syncro will not fix the codes.
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  #22  
Old 01-19-2014, 05:17 PM
jjvm90 jjvm90 is offline
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Default Re: p1071 and p1074

I know that but the chirp is bothering me more than the codes now, it sounds like a bird army is killing eachother under my hood
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  #23  
Old 01-20-2014, 06:08 PM
SmokinRZ SmokinRZ is offline
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Default Re: p1071 and p1074

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjvm90 View Post
I think you're right I placed a stethoscope on the camshaft sensor and the squeak was way closer also when I put pressure on it the pitch of the chirp changed do you think this is enough info to go ahead and replace it? Also I heard you can fuck up your engine if not done correct how hard is it?

going with motorcraft for the sensor and synchronizer, 115$ for both on amazon, Do I need the special tool for an extra 20 ?

It is easy, rotate your motor to top dead center (0 degree on the balancer). Romove the cap and make note of the position of the pointer in relation to the housing and more importatnly the housing in relation to the motor. Take a few photos. Make a few chalk or sharpie marks. Remove the 10mm hold down bolt and lift up to remove. Do not turn the motor at all. Insert new syncro until a the pointer points in the same location. It will take a few stabs to get right. Now line up the housing and tighten down. Mine cranked right up without the tool but it might be off a few degrees.
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  #24  
Old 01-21-2014, 04:38 AM
RangerSchool RangerSchool is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokinRZ View Post

It is easy, rotate your motor to top dead center (0 degree on the balancer). Romove the cap and make note of the position of the pointer in relation to the housing and more importatnly the housing in relation to the motor. Take a few photos. Make a few chalk or sharpie marks. Remove the 10mm hold down bolt and lift up to remove. Do not turn the motor at all. Insert new syncro until a the pointer points in the same location. It will take a few stabs to get right. Now line up the housing and tighten down. Mine cranked right up without the tool but it might be off a few degrees.
If your doing the photo technique don't bother with TDC. TDC is only if you use the tool.
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Last edited by RangerSchool; 01-21-2014 at 04:45 AM.
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  #25  
Old 01-30-2014, 01:40 PM
jjvm90 jjvm90 is offline
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Default Re: p1071 and p1074

update: I installed a new MAF 2 days ago and the CE light came right back on, only thing I can think of now is the K&N CAI is fucking with me, anyone else had these codes with a CAI?
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  #26  
Old 01-30-2014, 01:43 PM
Logan03CO Logan03CO is offline
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Default Re: p1071 and p1074

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjvm90 View Post
anyone else had these codes with a CAI?
When there is a leak, yes people have.
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  #27  
Old 01-30-2014, 02:04 PM
glackey88 glackey88 is offline
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Default Re: p1071 and p1074

my ford doing samething as for squeeling,its definitely cam synchronizer.got to change mine.but im not running lean,keep getting codes running rich,i put e3 plugs and new wires,egr valve,egr selinoid,cold air intake,new 02 sensors and im still getting rich codes and burning to much fuel.u have any ideas what is causing this.
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  #28  
Old 01-30-2014, 06:19 PM
jjvm90 jjvm90 is offline
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Default Re: p1071 and p1074

I will seafoam tomorrow and re inspect my vacuum lines with carb spray for the 4th time hopefully ill find something new and if that doesnt work ill try to figure out a home smoke test, as for your rich codes I have no idea what normally pulls those.
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  #29  
Old 01-31-2014, 06:01 PM
jjvm90 jjvm90 is offline
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Default Re: p1071 and p1074

definitely verified no vacuum leaks, new cam shaft and sensor installed, cylinder 6 seemed like it was missing slightly so I replaced the fuel injector, cleaned manifold etc, gonna throw new plug wires on in a few days, my exhaust seems like its weak for a 6 cylinder and when I cover it with my hand its almost sucking my hand back in at times, If the cel comes back on im going to get my cats tested somewhere
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  #30  
Old 01-31-2014, 07:30 PM
sh8zen sh8zen is offline
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Default Re: p1071 and p1074

clogged cats (especially ones so clogged that codes are triggered) will be accompanied with a healthy performance loss. Are you experiencing that?

When the cats start to clog, the engine consumes less air. The MAF senses that and schedules less fuel to keep the mixture at the right ratio (neither too lean nor too rich). The cats really have to clog beyond the capability of the computer to adjust before the engine will start to run lean enough or rich enough to trigger codes. If they are that clogged, you'd have a hard time making freeway speed by the time you're past the onramp. Is that going on? Do you spend a half mile in the slow lane trying to build enough steam to merge left? Does it feel like it's been getting like that in the last year/months? If not, you probably don't have a cat issue.

171 & 174 means the engine is getting more air than the MAF is letting on or the fuel system can't supply the amount of fuel the computer is telling it too. (more air or less fuel will cause an engine to run lean)

Since it's had induction system work (the K&N) done, it's easy to put that as the most likely culprit. A disrupted (not smooth) airflow in the MAF area can cause the MAF to underrepresent the amount of air to the computer, driving the engine lean. It's easy to connect the lean codes to something like that.

Also have your fuel pressure checked. really low fuel pressure could do it too. You should have 65psi on the rail. If it's down in the 20s or 30s, it's easy to connect the lean codes to that too.

Also, you can go to a local auto parts store and have them put a scan tool on it for free. If there is freeze frame data associated with the P0171 or 174 then write it down so we can see if there is a clue in it.
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