Quote:
Originally Posted by wh23g3g
How bad was that rebuild on a 2.5? I've only done a Dodge Charger 400 B-block rebuild minus heads which were rebuilt by machine shop, removing the connecting rods from the pistons, I also had the machine shop install the cam bearings and cam. Everything else I did. I did do everything though new rings, bearings, seals, screen, timing set, assembly. It's a little different than the 2.5 but I was wondering how difficult it would compare to. Because if it goes out I see remanufactured 2.5's are more than the 3.0 or 4.0's. I'm not sure it would be worth having my general mechanic yank it just to change the oil pan gasket. Although, tt probably wouldn't hurt to have rear seal and an oil pump put in either. I just remember my original 2.5 that I had quit at 228,000 while on vacation in the 3 degree weather in Kentucky. It was well taken care of too, the oil clearances were causing erratic oil pressure and spun a bearing. So this used 2000 2.5 was installed which now probably has 200,000 miles. Would there be anyway to tell potentially how long the engine would go without any bearing problems if it was out with the oil pan off?
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Well.... I'll start by saying that I inherited this '98 Ranger 2.5 with an undetermined failure at roughly 196,000mi.. At that point it was known for sure that it was gonna cost me in either labor and money for just a rebuilt head with the unknown (at that time) factor of low-end problems, which undoubtedly would've been even more money and extraneous, repetitive labor to boot!
I was in the fortunate position of not needing to "have" the truck right away as I have other vehicles and chose instead to save up and plan for a crate engine swap, whilst rebuilding the front end and all of the various BS that you do while the engine is outta there! Yes, they're more money more than likely due to the fact that it's a Lima powerplant with twin plugs from Mazda ala Ford. However, I know this is situation is unique to me.
But seriously, if you have access to an engine hoist, or would feel up to the challenge and wanna get one at Harbor Freight (for maybe one time use, I know), it is not all that hard to lift that engine out enough to change that pan gasket. How bad do you need or want this truck?
My truck is gorgeous for 20 years old, and was taken care of for the most part until its failure, an exceptional case granted it's a single owner vehicle whom I know AND it's Arizona... No shitty rust BS!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleJacy
Well.... I'll start by saying that I inherited this '98 Ranger 2.5 with an undetermined failure at roughly 196,000mi.. At that point it was known for sure that it was gonna cost me in either labor and money for just a rebuilt head with the unknown (at that time) factor of low-end problems, which undoubtedly would've been even more money and extraneous, repetitive labor to boot!
I was in the fortunate position of not needing to "have" the truck right away as I have other vehicles and chose instead to save up and plan for a crate engine swap, whilst rebuilding the front end and all of the various BS that you do while the engine is outta there! Yes, they're more money more than likely due to the fact that it's a Lima powerplant with twin plugs from Mazda ala Ford. However, I know this is situation is unique to me.
But seriously, if you have access to an engine hoist, or would feel up to the challenge and wanna get one at Harbor Freight (for maybe one time use, I know), it is not all that hard to lift that engine out enough to change that pan gasket. How bad do you need or want this truck?
My truck is gorgeous for 20 years old, and was taken care of for the most part until its failure, an exceptional case granted it's a single owner vehicle whom I know AND it's Arizona... No shitty rust BS!!
Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk |
I'll add that this whole "rebuild" took me roughly a year to plan and finally complete. Since finishing I tinted the windows, and I am currently getting ready to change out the AC condenser as I must've rammed it with the damn engine when I was dropping it in! Seriously, it's not THAT hard to pull the engine, especially if you're just doing the pan. It's a matter of removing the hood for clearance and unplugging various (obvious) lines AND ALWAYS LABELING AND PHOTO-DOCUMENTING YOUR STEPS! I cannot emphasize the latter enough, it saved my ass on more than one day doing this job!
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