View Single Post
 
Old 12-05-2010, 03:01 AM
Fx4wannabe01 Fx4wannabe01 is offline
Ford Ranger Driver
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,197
Default Re: Slave cylinder replacement

Not a problem man.


This was actually taken like 2 hours ago....




Pictured is the chunk of wood I use when jacking up the trans to get the x-member out, then lowering it down. I muscle the trans back in for install though.

Since it's a 4.0, the exhaust Y-pipe needs to be removed. The cat-intermediate pipe removal helps in the room to work department, but isn't required. Hit up your local Ford dealer for the Y-pipe to cat-pipe gasket...$10. Use TC-11 or some sort of rust eater/lubricant on the exhaust nuts a few days or few hours before you attempt to attack them with the ratchet. If you happen to snap any of the studs on the Y-pipe to cat-pipe, no worries. Just beat 'em all out when the cat-pipe is out and get 3- 3/8x1.25 bolts and use those to fasten that joint on assembly. On the manifold studs, I always brush on anti-seize since I seem to be in there all too often. lol. Plus having those manifold studs snap is not a fun job to fix. Getting at those manifold to Y-pipe nuts, I use 2 6" extentions on a 3/8 ratchet, a universal, and a shallow 15mm socket.

If your clutch kit doesn't come with the clutch quick coupler disconnect tool, no biggie. You can un-clip it using two small flat-head screwdrivers and some imagination. Little plastic sleeve goes in, line goes in, then pull out. But telling you from experience, NOTHING beats having the proper tool. They only run about $5 at the auto parts store. Some clutch kits come with them.

DONT FORGET A PILOT BEARING!!! This is the bearing the input shaft of the transmission rides on in the flywheel. Speaking of flywheel, resurfacing isn't required, but it sure is a good idea to have done that way you're starting with a blank slate. Machine shop would be the place of choice and it only costs about $20-30 to have done. Quite a bit cheaper than a new flywheel. Also, remember to get the E12 socket. I stumbled upon those and used what I could to get the flywheel off.....8mm, 5/16, 7mm(beating them on and breaking every one of them), then eventually a die grinder to cut the bolt heads off. And let me tell ya, those bolts are NOT cheap! 8 bolts x 3.50 from Ford = $28!

For your un-bodylifted application, it may be a good idea to pull the trans tunnel inspection cover out to gain access to the top bellhousing bolts. Honestly, it's been so long since I dropped one out of a stock truck, that I just can't remember how I did it back then. lol. Possibly let the trans hang with the x-member out and they'll be right in your face and in perfect reach for that 13mm. PS: Ratcheting wrenches are AWESOME!!!!

When bleeding the new slave, I've had good luck with topping off the reservoir, leaving the cap off, opening the bleeder, then pump the pedal only about 3" 3 times, top it off again, 3 small soft pumps again, watch the fluid dribble out onto the floor. Let it dribble til the reservoir goes down to just above "full level", then close the bleeder. Put the diaphragm back on, screw the cap, now pump the pedal with your hand slowly and softly then it'll get firm and you're good to go. Those little pumps really speeds up the gravity bleed process. I just did it like 40mins ago so it's really fresh on my brain. lol. Oh...and this way is a 1-man bleeding operation as well.

While bleeding, it'll get on the Y-pipe so when you start it up there will be burning smell of brake fluid. Nothing to worry about.





Alright....I hope you don't mind I gave you a typefest of tips and tricks that the Chilton's/Hayne's doesn't cover at all. I know I coulda used it when I first attacked my truck 5-6 years ago. Got any questions while you're on the job or just preparing for it, don't hesitate to ask.
__________________
'01 XLT disguised as a '03 Fx4 Level II.
Reply With Quote