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  #31  
Old 12-19-2012, 11:40 PM
Sub74 Sub74 is offline
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Only an hour and a half? That is why I cut all the bolt heads on mine. Took an hour to get the exhaust manifolds completely out

The first time is always the hardest - have to be persistent to be a mechanic

First time I pulled the motor took me a full week after work. Now I can pull the whole motor in about 2 hours

Take a break, it will be much easier when you come back to it
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1988 Ranger STX, custom built flatbed, winch, 33x 10.5 BFG mudders
1974 Suburban (AKA "the sub") lockers front & rear, 383 cu in not even close to stock motor, snowplow 37 x 12.5 HUMMV tires, 4.56 gears
1952 M38 (CJ3) Jeep - my newest project - 289 ford, hardtop, got it with not one wire in it. Hope to have it driving this year
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  #32  
Old 12-21-2012, 08:44 AM
Psychopete Psychopete is offline
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Default Re: Cracked head or gasket? or just too hot?

I think the 2.9L has been the absolute worst that I have seen when it came to exhaust bolts. When I was in that situation I simply bought a new set of heads (one was cracked anyway), and just went and snapped them all off at my convenience. The 2.9L heads are not as common as they were then, though. A shop can extract them, but at $65/hr.... and the head might not even be any good....
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  #33  
Old 02-16-2013, 11:43 AM
tadpole33420 tadpole33420 is offline
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Default Re: Cracked head or gasket? or just too hot?

hey keithmnovak i have a 4.0 litre v6 92 4wd i had some issues with the motor when i bought it. the biggest help i could find on how to fix or whats wrong is a chilton book on your make year and model of your truck. you can fully take your truck apart and rebuild off of one of those. is has wiring diagrams pics and ALOT of info on your specific truck. the haynes books are good but chilton has more info in it. hope this helps a little bit
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  #34  
Old 02-18-2013, 06:09 PM
TexasWelder TexasWelder is offline
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Ever thought of checking the part behind the distributor?
I forgot what it called.
It very common to be overheated.

Mine melted once.

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