My ranger started acting up and now it is worse. First i thought tranny was slipping then I heard the motor was missing. Idles fine for a few then stalls out when parked or stopped.Happens at low speed and when I go over 35mph. Has new plugs and wires maybe distributor maybe the timing really have no idea.Any thoughts on what could be wrong.

The problem is so wide range, like you said, could be anything to a bad dist cap to ????. Probably not what you're looking for specifically, but I would start with a compression test, fuel pressure test and check the computer for codes, as well as change the regular maintenance items to cover your bases (cap, rotor, fuel filter). I could list off every sensor and could be wrong 100% of the time. Need to narrow down possibilities. Timing is easy enough to check, just be sure to pull the SPOUT and make sure it sets at 10~14BTDC.

So I changed the plugs and wires fuel pump on the frame and filter. Runs a lil better but still not right. Starts fine runs good for awhile then starts to sputter get on the gas then runs fine. Blowes black smoke when you get on the gas maybe fuel pump in tank or coil. Kinda sounds like its getting to much air or just no gas started to get bad gas mileage after new plugs got a little better but not what I was getting before.

Still need to look at doing some diagnostics. A $40 fuel pressure gauge (or renting one) probably could have saved you from buying a $100 inline fuel pump.

If it's running rich and causing a misfire, blown FPR comes to mind, and would show on a fuel pressure gauge; but also a sign is if you have gas in the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold. Could be MAP, could be a dozen other things. But a lot of this stuff can be tested to avoid replacing things that are still working OK. Check out this site - http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/

Still think pulling codes ('87 doesn't have a functioning check engine light) and making sure the fuel pressure is in spec would help narrow things down.

The Throttle Position is famous for your problem. Its right up front on the throttle linkage and easy to change. That would be my hint.

Iam going to see what codes I get sometime this week ill let ya know what I get. Ill check that to and see what happens hopefully it gets fixed or maybe its just time for a 5.0 swap lol.

FWIW The link I gave you has instructions for testing the TPS to verify if it's working correctly.

So I went to pull codes today but I can't find the hookups anywhere. There not where I usually know they. Any idea on where they would be. Its a 87 ranger xlt 2.9 fuel injected.

Figured out iam geting no spark. The coil is geting power but not firing bad coil or the module on the dis. Maybe something completely different really have no idea.

Are you just not getting spark on one cylinder, or are you not getting spark at all now?

I never ran codes I couldn't find the hookups. Went to leave motor wouldn't start would crank but that's all. What do you think bout the inertia switch I did hit the reset button when I was looking for the hookups wich i should of known they wouldnt be under the dash. maybe that jus finally wet bad I herd they cut spark off to when they go bad. Iam really jus thinking bout the 5.0 swap.

The hookups usually find someway to hide under/around the air box, the hook ups are usually under the hood on the passenger side. But not positive on the 86-87 models.

The inertia switch is bypassable for testing, but if you can hear your fuel pumps coming on, it is working. Hard to tell what it could be, need to narrow down some more.

Like if the computer isn't getting powered, you won't have fuel or spark.

Check at the computer relay - is there +12v at the yellow (or combo of yellow black) fuse source power? Is there a good ground? Test light (or meter if you can manage it) on the Red/Light Green wire will verify signal from the ignition switch.

Looks good, put the relay back in, and move on to the fuel pump relay. Same thing - do you have fused power? Is there power at the red wire when the key is on Run? Ground comes from the computer at this relay, that is how it controls it.

Or pulling codes would verify that the computer is turn on. Can bypass the computer grounding function of the fuel pump relay at the diagnostic connector to test the fuel pump circuit.

Or an easy one is to simply spray starting fluid in the upper intake (thru the throttle body with it at WOT). If it starts for a couple secs and dies, it is a fuel problem.

Bad coil changed it then it fired right up but still not running right. I took my air box out looking for the hookups can't seem to find them hopefully the previous owner didn't cut them like he did with a few wires and the radio was a mess lol. Ill give it another look and see if I can't find them.

Ok I found the hookups did the key on engine off got code 31 and 87. Key on engin running test the light would stay on and beep don't know what that means. So what now?

code 31 is EVAP control system below minimum voltage.
code 87 is primary fuel pump system failure.

Both pumps run off the same electrical circuit, so what does 87 mean? I think PRIMARY is referring to the in-tank pump, but I could be wrong.

Did you check the pressure on the fuel rail, it should be 43 psi or so. There is no way to check the pressure output of the pumps individually.

The in-tank pump is puny compared to the frame mounted pump, so if the pressure is low, it might be the in-tank pump. Some People run around on empty all the time and that is hard on the tank pumps because they rely on the fuel to cool them.

You could be dropping your tank on this. Need to drain it first. A tank with fuel moving around is hard to control and an empty tank is full of explosive fumes, so be careful and don't make any sparks. They use a brass tool to knock the pump's locking ring loose so there is no chance of a spark.

I don't know your experience, just be careful, hope this helps.