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  #1  
Old 10-17-2009, 10:06 PM
Elwood Elwood is offline
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Default 2.9L Air bypass control valve?

My 87 runs rough when cold & has a slight hesitation at lower rpm's. Fuel & ignition systems are good. I had a fault on the TPS(throttle position sensor), I didn't suspect this, but I changed it anyways, & of course, no help! I'm now leaning towards a problem with the air bypass control valve. Other than cleaning the unit, does anyone know of a way to check it using an ohmmeter? Thanks for any inputs, Elwood
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Old 10-31-2009, 04:35 PM
Elwood Elwood is offline
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I solved the coughing when cold problem, by changing the airbypass valve. But it still surges thru all power settings. I found the EGR valve clogged, so I replaced it along with the EGR vacuum solenoid, as precautionary. And still no help! Could I have some clogged injectors? But, if so, why is my problem intermittent? Does anyone have any answers? Thanks, Elwood

Last edited by Elwood; 11-01-2009 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 11-01-2009, 04:47 PM
Elwood Elwood is offline
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O.K! How about this one? Since my only fault was the TPS, could the Mass Airflow Valve have caused the EEC to latch a TPS fault? Afterall, I do have 285,000mi. on my Ranger, I guess that could be worn-out? I'd like to know for sure, because I think that part will be pricey? Come on guys, there's gotta be someone out there, driving an old beater like mine? Help me out here!! Adios! Elwood
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Old 11-02-2009, 01:44 AM
littleblue littleblue is offline
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I had the same type of problems on my 90 bii w/2.9. I replaced all the same components plus the temp sender for the ecm, the ignition control unit on the distributor and fuel pressure regulator and still it surged and threw the same cel error each time. It ended up being the O2 sensor. So you might want to have it checked.
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  #5  
Old 11-02-2009, 08:40 AM
Elwood Elwood is offline
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Hey! Littleblue, You might be on to something? I don't have any faults pertaining to the O2 System, but that doesn't mean too much with OBD1. In-fact, I'm not sure I've ever changed the O2 sensor, & I like the fact that it should be much cheaper than the Mass Airflow Valve. Thanks, Elwood
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  #6  
Old 11-02-2009, 10:42 AM
littleblue littleblue is offline
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Yea mine was the same way, cel code didn't point to O2. It was always the tps and/or ignition module on the distributor. It was very frustrating and obd1 coding isn't much help. Then I read on a forum somewhere about the 02 causing the problem for someone else. Hope it works for you.
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'00 XLT 3.0 Exted cab
Mods: Roush hood & cai, ASP pwr pulley, hot wtr bypass, 180 therm, e-fan, Gibson exh., 4.10 l/s, FabTech lift, kyb's, bii sway bar. 31x10.50 Yokahama ATs, Panther rims, light bar, SS grille, 03 stang buckets, explorer console, hurst shifter


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/706028/1
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Old 11-02-2009, 04:36 PM
Elwood Elwood is offline
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Alright, Here I go again! I was really hoping the O2 Sensor would be the silver bullet, well just my luck, no help! One other thing I noticed was besides the idle being a little irratic, it was also higher than normal, (800 or 900rpm normal, now it's 1,200 or 1,300rpm). Also, it seems to surge more after engine is at operating temp. and more at decel rather accel? Unless someone has something else, I guess I'll try the Mass Airflow Valve? My neighbor said he had an old aerostar, & it was doing the same thing, & different shops kept doing what I'm doing, throwing parts at it! Till finally, he went to a dyno-shop, & they changed the Mass Airflow Valve & that fixed it!

Last edited by Elwood; 11-03-2009 at 08:50 AM.
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:36 PM
littleblue littleblue is offline
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Sorry to hear the 02 didn't work out. You might try a junk yard for the replacement maf. I know the yard I go to allows you to pay a little extra on electrical components so you can bring the part back if it doesn't work. Is yours a CA emissions vehicle with the maf on the airbox/tube or the mas located on the firewall?
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'00 XLT 3.0 Exted cab
Mods: Roush hood & cai, ASP pwr pulley, hot wtr bypass, 180 therm, e-fan, Gibson exh., 4.10 l/s, FabTech lift, kyb's, bii sway bar. 31x10.50 Yokahama ATs, Panther rims, light bar, SS grille, 03 stang buckets, explorer console, hurst shifter


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/706028/1
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  #9  
Old 11-03-2009, 02:23 AM
Elwood Elwood is offline
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Yes, it's CA emissions, with it on the airbox/tube. I got a hold of some shop manual diagnosing & testing info. today, & there's some checks I can do with just an ohmmeter & vacuum pump. Some of the testing requires special Ford equipment. So, the stuff I can test includes: MAP Sensor, Eng. Coolant Temp. Sensor, Air Charge Temp. Sensor, & Vehicle Speed Sensor. There's one other check I can do on the Knock Sensor, but it looks a bit involved? I might as well try all of these, before I shoot at the Mass Airflow Valve. The junkyard would be a good option for the MAF, because I think a new one is going to cost me a few bills! Thanks for the input!
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Old 11-23-2009, 10:22 AM
Elwood Elwood is offline
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O.K. my irratic idling was caused by a cracked power brake check valve, which was causing a vacuum leak! I still have a bad surging problem after the engine warms-up to normal operating temps. It runs good while it's cold. Could I have a clogged exhaust converter or bad fuel injectors?
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Old 11-24-2009, 09:30 AM
Elwood Elwood is offline
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In some T/S info. I have, the second thing it mentions for intermittent bucking, jerking, irratic running, & rough idle is: the MAP sensor. I performed a vacuum check of the unit, which just verifies the sensor is sealed & not leaking. I'd like to do an electrical check of the MAP unit, but it looks like you need a special MAP tester. Is anyone aware of any test I can do using an ohmmeter? Also, Has anyone ever had the MAP sensor correct this problem?
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  #12  
Old 11-27-2009, 09:23 PM
Elwood Elwood is offline
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I found some T/S info. online for the MAP sensor, all that you had to do was pump it to 15 in. Hg. & watch for a steady freq. change on your ohmmeter, & then release the vacuum & the freq. should return. What ended-up being my problem, that I've been working on for about a month & a half & throwing near $400 in parts, along with alot of T/S, was a faulty EGR Sensor. So, looking back on all of this, the things that were actually bad on my 2.9L were a couple of leaking vacuum hoses, air bypass valve, a cracked power brake check valve, & a inop EGR sensor! The bottom line is: If you have a surging & irratic idling problem, check the condition of your vacuum hoses & then T/S your EGR system (valve, solenoid, & sensor).

Last edited by Elwood; 11-27-2009 at 09:27 PM.
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