Need help, Truck is not running right.

90fordranger · #1 03-07-2011, 07:15 PM

So I'm going to make this short, so I can go try and figure it out.

My truck has been running just fine, then I go to hook up and wire my new K/C's and it has trouble starting. Eventually it does start, and it starts to idle weird. As in (hard to explain) But it would idle then start to die then idle and start to die. I am not low on gas, just put 10 in. I checked the oil, I am a little low. Coolant level is fine.

any help, and I will appreciate it.

Thanks!

Teg360 · #2 03-07-2011, 07:18 PM

your altinator could be going

90fordranger · #3 03-07-2011, 07:24 PM

But, that wouldn't explain the idle right? I thought the alternator was just to recharge the battery. The Idle is acting weird, Maybe it's because I need a tune up pretty bad? I'm unsure..

knightmare1015 · #4 03-08-2011, 01:27 AM

It's just not your atlernator but something else. When you added those offroad kc lights the demand for power has increased dramaticly. I would recomend a stronger battery, alternator, ignition system, and a bit more powerful starter. If that doesn't eliminate the problem then I would lose the Kc lights and see if that would fix it. I would also try starting it without those exra goodies to see if that was causing those electrical gremlins first before upgrading all of those systems. You got to determine what's causing the problems before you can fix it.

90fordranger · #5 03-08-2011, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knightmare1015

It's just not your atlernator but something else. When you added those offroad kc lights the demand for power has increased dramaticly. I would recomend a stronger battery, alternator, ignition system, and a bit more powerful starter. If that doesn't eliminate the problem then I would lose the Kc lights and see if that would fix it. I would also try starting it without those exra goodies to see if that was causing those electrical gremlins first before upgrading all of those systems. You got to determine what's causing the problems before you can fix it.

thanks, I'm going to walk up and get some oil. then I'll unhook the K/C's and see if thats it.

FireRanger · #6 03-08-2011, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knightmare1015

It's just not your atlernator but something else. When you added those offroad kc lights the demand for power has increased dramaticly. I would recomend a stronger battery, alternator, ignition system, and a bit more powerful starter. If that doesn't eliminate the problem then I would lose the Kc lights and see if that would fix it. I would also try starting it without those exra goodies to see if that was causing those electrical gremlins first before upgrading all of those systems. You got to determine what's causing the problems before you can fix it.

Actually none of that at all.

Having lights simply wired to the truck has nothing to do with your ability to idle. Upgrading completely unrelated and unneccessary parts will not make any difference either. Please do not start replacing starters, alternators, and ignition components, that makes no sense at all. Also, these lights have nothing to do with anything when they're NOT TURNED ON. And if they were on, they still woudn't do this. Whats more likely is that installing them provoked something else to cause a problem.

I would start with this list of typical start and idle troubleshooting if you want to actually fix it:

1) Disconnect and clean the battery clamps and terminals

2) Disconnect and clean the battery ground points (follow the big black wire)

3) Remove and clean the IAC (see how-to section)

4) Remove and clean the MAF (see how-to section)

5) Remove and replace the fuel filter

6) After you do all that, reconnect the battery. This will force it to re-learn how to idle properly with all the clean components

7) With a voltmeter on the battery with the engine running, it should read between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. If so, your alternator is working fine. With the engine off, it should read 12.something.

Also, please explain how you wired the lights. I think it is probably a complete coincidence or you'll find it is related to the battery terminals in step one.

90fordranger · #7 03-08-2011, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FireRanger

Actually none of that at all.

Having lights simply wired to the truck has nothing to do with your ability to idle. Upgrading completely unrelated and unneccessary parts will not make any difference either. Please do not start replacing starters, alternators, and ignition components, that makes no sense at all. Also, these lights have nothing to do with anything when they're NOT TURNED ON. And if they were on, they still woudn't do this. Whats more likely is that installing them provoked something else to cause a problem.

I would start with this list of typical start and idle troubleshooting if you want to actually fix it:

1) Disconnect and clean the battery clamps and terminals

2) Disconnect and clean the battery ground points (follow the big black wire)

3) Remove and clean the IAC (see how-to section)

4) Remove and clean the MAF (see how-to section)

5) Remove and replace the fuel filter

6) After you do all that, reconnect the battery. This will force it to re-learn how to idle properly with all the clean components

7) With a voltmeter on the battery with the engine running, it should read between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. If so, your alternator is working fine. With the engine off, it should read 12.something.

Also, please explain how you wired the lights. I think it is probably a complete coincidence or you'll find it is related to the battery terminals in step one.

thanks, I'll probally do those test today, can't replace the fuel filter yet though.

How I wired the lights.

I have 3 on the bumper, so The switch has negative and positive.. Trying to remember this right, I connected all of the positive light wires together to the positive terminal. Then connected all the negative to the switch. That doesn't sound quite right, so I will check and look at it.

But thanks for your good reply

FireRanger · #8 03-08-2011, 09:22 AM

Ok, so where is the positive power to the switch coming from? Wire to the battery or somewhere else? Fuses? Wire gauge? Watts of the lights?

Psychopete · #9 03-08-2011, 09:57 AM

I am not sure what kind of switch you used, but be sure that it's rated for the amperage those lights will pull. If not, it will burn up the switch in short order. In that case; a relay rated at the right amperage would be the way to go. Thought I would just throw that out there.

And I agree, if you did something and now it runs funny; undo and see if it resolves the problem.

1990 2.9L won't have a MAF sensor unless it's a California emission model, otherwise it will have a MAP sensor.

pooleo · #10 03-08-2011, 10:02 AM

does the that year have distibutor or distibutor-less

either way, if you powered from the power to ecm or coil pack/distributor it would effect those critical componets that make the truck run.....it seems as if I had done something before that I powered from that circuit and it affected how it ran....dunno know, cant remember

Psychopete · #11 03-08-2011, 10:06 AM

all 2.9Ls were distributor. 4.0Ls are EDIS.

knightmare1015 · #12 03-09-2011, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FireRanger

Actually none of that at all.

Having lights simply wired to the truck has nothing to do with your ability to idle. Upgrading completely unrelated and unneccessary parts will not make any difference either. Please do not start replacing starters, alternators, and ignition components, that makes no sense at all. Also, these lights have nothing to do with anything when they're NOT TURNED ON. And if they were on, they still woudn't do this. Whats more likely is that installing them provoked something else to cause a problem.

I would start with this list of typical start and idle troubleshooting if you want to actually fix it:

1) Disconnect and clean the battery clamps and terminals

2) Disconnect and clean the battery ground points (follow the big black wire)

3) Remove and clean the IAC (see how-to section)

4) Remove and clean the MAF (see how-to section)

5) Remove and replace the fuel filter

6) After you do all that, reconnect the battery. This will force it to re-learn how to idle properly with all the clean components

7) With a voltmeter on the battery with the engine running, it should read between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. If so, your alternator is working fine. With the engine off, it should read 12.something.

Also, please explain how you wired the lights. I think it is probably a complete coincidence or you'll find it is related to the battery terminals in step one.

Actually I am partially right. The stock battery and alternator can't handle but so many things. You would need a little stonger but not too much stronger. You're right about upgrading every thing, you really don't need to. Just the battery and if needed the alternator.

----------

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90fordranger

thanks, I'm going to walk up and get some oil. then I'll unhook the K/C's and see if thats it.

You're welcome my friend. I hope that helps you out some.

FireRanger · #13 03-09-2011, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knightmare1015

Actually I am partially right. The stock battery and alternator can't handle but so many things. You would need a little stonger but not too much stronger. You're right about upgrading every thing, you really don't need to. Just the battery and if needed the alternator.

Potentially yes. But unrelated to the problem he's having. Lights that not turned on are not going to effect starting or idleing. Though it could be a secondary issue he will have to tackle at some point. Depends on what wattage the lights are really.

knightmare1015 · #14 03-10-2011, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FireRanger

Potentially yes. But unrelated to the problem he's having. Lights that not turned on are not going to effect starting or idleing. Though it could be a secondary issue he will have to tackle at some point. Depends on what wattage the lights are really.

Yep. you're right about that. higher wattage can spell disaster. He might have too high of a wattage that the stock battery and alternator can't handle.

90fordranger · #15 03-10-2011, 12:29 PM

The mechanics think, it needs a tune up. Spark plugs are not getting spark. So I'm having them do a tune up on it, In witch I needed one for awhile now. I think it was running on 4 cyl or so.

The battery that is in it now, is one from my old 6.2l gmc suburban. It is pretty much new, well more like 8 months old.
I don't think its the battery, good idea though.

I'll tell everybody how it runs and or starts when I get it today.

thanks everybody.