Hi all, 1989 Ranger 2.9 64,000 Origunal Miles. Had the Plugs, Wires Distributor cap, Rotor button, and Fuel Filter replaced.
Hard starting first time in morning, then after running a while, will start first try.
Any suggestions? Thanks

Filter came to mind; but you already replaced. Try to cycle the key to prime the pump a few times to build pressure. There's a check valve in the tank assembly that might be on the fritz. Fuel pressure gauge would be a massive help. Also wouldn't hurt to pull KOEO/CM codes. ECT also comes to mind, but should check things out before replacing stuff.

How old is the battery/alternator?

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wrote this up for another user. figured I wld post for future searches

coolant temp sensor, and coolant temp sender sensor, your truck has both.

They are two separate and distinct sensors.

The CTS coolant temperature sensor send signals to the ECU (computer) telling the engine how hot it is or isn't allowing the computer to send the ignition signals to advance or retard the timing to allow your car to be more efficient. When it goes bad it will and can cause the following conditions:
no start when warm
no start when cold
crappy gas mileage
crappy idleing.

The Coolant Temperature Sender (usually black or brown) lights up the idiot light or the water temp gauge by sending signals to the Coolant temp relay.
Both work on the same principle that resistance to the unit varied with the temp of the water.

So re-capping one sends signals to the computer.
One sends signals to the gauge.

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Also has a lot of say on how much fuel, too. Colder engine needs more to start up.

It's testable - but from what I remember, it wasn't in a good place for this. The engine coolant test sensor on your engine will be on the passenger side, in the lower intake plenum, towards the front of the intake.

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=28

Thank you to all for the good advice.
brinker88 asked about Battery/alternator, I forgot to say the battery was replaced at the same time plugs and all were installed 4 weeks ago, Alt checked out fine.
terryduanemiller refers to CTS sensor[s] as a possible, but after first start, it starts good. Not sure about Coolant Temp Sender, I can say the Temp gauge has always hardly moved cold or hot, but that hasnt chgd since I owned the ranger, so thats constant, not since pblm began. Dont know what 'recapping' means relative to sensors?
I shall check the website Psychopete suggests as well, but at a disadvantage as I dont own code readers, so not sure about that direction. The check valve in the Tank Assembly, would a sticking Fuel Guage be related to that, as sometimes the needle will stick around 3/4's and I need to slosh the gas around while driving to get it right again.
I appreciate all your expertise, and patience with an 'Old School' tinkerer, was ok with the 283's ,289's, 427's ect, but all this electronics has me baffled. Thanks again

CTS, ECT etc - we're all referring to the same thing part, but it has many acronyms. The gauge sender will have nothing to do with the engine running poorly, there's actually two temp sensors. One just for the gauge that has one wire that's on the diver's side lower intake. The one that the computer uses is on the other side, and can go bad (but may not necessarily be the problem).

Does you check engine light work? You can pull codes and have them flashed out though the check engine light. Computer is always looking for out of range sensors and bad connections, and will store codes for any that are out of range.

Pulling codes is pretty easy, need to jumper a connection with a small piece of wire or paper clip, turn key on Run and the codes are blinked out of the check engine light. If check engine light does not work, you can hook up an analog meter or test light to get them.

That's the basics of it, but more info can be found here:

Diagnostic Connector Diagram:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html

Info on KOEO:
http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenan...koer.html#koeo

My thoughts on the fuel was that it's returning back, and the inital prime when you turn the key may not be able to build enough pressure to actually start the engine - but would need verified with a pressure gauge (or cycle the key and let the pump prime before starting when you know it's not going to). Or even ground the fuel system self test when the key is on run to allow the pumps to run for about 10 seconds to make sure the system is primed before starting when you know it's not going to start.

The "sticking" gauge problem is a different issue.

Thanks again PsychoPete,
Pete here as well, pbly been called Psycho on a few occasions, but, the cycling of the key to prime is what I have been doing, seems to have to spin 3-5 tries to get fuel up, then she starts, loaded up a tad, but then runs fine. Subsequent starts, short trips, stop and go, start
1st try.
I may have to buy me a code reader, any idea of costs? Have the 89 Ranger and 96 Windstar, will the same reader do both?
Thank you again, much appreciated.
Oh, I have seen the Check Engine come on a few times, but it hasn't while this pblm has been going on.
Pete in NC

I don't meet very many other Petes. Long story behind my name, but it's stuck with me since I was 13.

Fuel pressure gauge would definitely rule out if the fuel just isn't pressurized in the fuel rail. They're kind of pricey, but I would be lost with out one working EFI stuff. If it's too low or too high, both can cause run ability issues.

Code reader for OBD-I shouldn't be too expensive. After 95 you will need a OBD-II scanner. OBD-I is the same on all Fords equipped with it - the procedure is the same between my Ranger, Tempo, old Mustang with OBD-I. It's easy to do, just will take some time to soak in - but once you have it, you'll be able to go through it by memory next time you need to pull codes.

Think the first thing I would be grabbing for is a fuel pressure gauge, at least make sure that's right - that can have you for a loop if you're looking at electronics and it's a fuel delivery problem.

Thanks again, I want to add this to symptoms.
After reading some of the posts, I went out to do some errands, and took note that even after running awhile, I get some lag/stuttering at lower RPMS in 1st 3 gears, and a less than smooth idle.
Thanks

Appreciate your patience on this, since last post, I went under the hood, to check connectors, as I do not have a code reader yet.
On the driver side, alongside the Coil, are 2 wiring connectors. I checked the coil wire[wires new], then the 2 connectors. One of the connectors made a 'click' when pushed together. The only other thing I did so far was add Fuel injector cleaner, which I do 2 times a year.
The Hard cold start, has gotten much better, it fires after 2-3 times, cycle key on, wait for prime spin it over, it goes. Is this a coincidence?
Still have hesitation/stuttering, in 2nd and 3rd, lower RPM's under acceleration.
Also, the temp outside has gotten warmer.
Thanks for all your help.
Further to this post, yesterday, rainy, started truck, in 1st And 2nd, truck bucking/Surging no power, could not reach 20mph. Some popping from exhaust. The bucking was like the engine racing, then quitting, and racing again, almost like I was shutting it off and on again, but No Stalling.
I know you all have given me much info already, but I dont have all the code readers or gauges, so might someone suggest what component to replace first? I appreciate your help. Thanks.

Further to this post, yesterday, rainy, started truck, in 1st And 2nd, truck bucking/Surging no power, could not reach 20mph. Some popping from exhaust. The bucking was like the engine racing, then quitting, and racing again, almost like I was shutting it off and on again, but No Stalling.
I know you all have given me much info already, but I dont have all the code readers or gauges, so might someone suggest what component to replace first? I appreciate your help. Thanks.

Gosh, really sounds like a lack of fuel; but I would hate to tell you something, replace it, and it doesn't do you any good. Is it doing it in all circumstances, whether it's warm or cold?

I think a fuel pressure gauge is around $40, but it fits many different vehicles and I consider it a must with any frequent work with EFI systems. It will pay for itself for instance if your fuel pressure is good, and it prevented you from replacing a $100 pump.

I would look at the computer more closely and try to get the diagnostic codes out of it. The oxygen sensor does just that and will typically throw a code 41 if you're far too lean running.

Don't necessarily need a scanner, just need to jumper the diagnostic connector, turn the key on Run, and watch your check engine light. They will blink out from there.



Use a paper clip or short piece of wire to connect the locations shown. The "Attach Grounded Test Light" is for if your check engine light is smoked.

I think i had posted some links that go into more detail as far as the testing processes. It's basically KOEO (hard faults)/CM (stored memory) and KOER for a set of tests it will run while the truck is running.

Thanks again,
I ordered a scanner , to read the codes, should have it soon.
This problem, the bucking/surging, is the 1st time it occurred, so cant tell if its only in cold or warmer weather, however, the starting is more difficult when its cold.
Hopefully the scanner will help, I appreciate your time and patience. I shall follow the instructions from your links, to determine the codes.

Pete

Finally got reader, attached and did KOEO. The OBD1 was tucked under that cover that reads EEC. I pulled on the wires, and the connectors came out.
Hooked up the reader did the KOEO test, it returned a Code 87-Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Fault.
I guess that is the main pump attached to the chassis?