Have an 88 ranger it would drive fine for about 15 minutes of driving and then bog out, out of nowhere when I would push on the gas and it would bog out even more. I thought it was the fuel pump so I replaced that and the fuel filter but still was doing it. So then I started to replace everything such as :
Ignition control module
Idle air control valve
Throttle position sensor
PVC valve
New vacuum hoses
Heater core hoses
Top and bottom radiator hoses
Fuel pump fuel filter
Spark plugs
Distributor cap and rotor

And now it cranks but won't start. I'm stumped Im about to just get it towed to the shop and have them fix it. If you guys have any ideas please let me know!!

Could my timing be off?
Or could it be electrical or a
Fuse or something?
Could it be my injectors spraying the right amount of fuel?
Is there a certain way my distributor cap has to go on? I'm completely stumped please help. By the way my distributor cap I'm pretty sure is on right the 1 that's on it is by the firewall passenger side.

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1988 ford ranger 2.9 liter V6 automatic.

Wow not sure how to start, you need to know for sure if you have no spark or no fuel
Put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail - good or not?
Check for spark at the plug - if no
Check for spark at the coil

Send another message when you have those answers

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1988 Ranger STX, custom built flatbed, winch, 33x 10.5 BFG mudders
1974 Suburban (AKA "the sub") lockers front & rear, 383 cu in not even close to stock motor, snowplow 37 x 12.5 HUMMV tires, 4.56 gears
1952 M38 (CJ3) Jeep - my newest project - 289 ford, hardtop, got it with not one wire in it. Hope to have it driving this year

88 is an EFI model right? After changing the fuel filter, did you bleed the Schrader valve on the fuel rail while someone cranks the engine...you may need to bleed out the air bubble trapped in the injector lines...

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86' Ranger 4x4 5spd 2.9L V-6

no need for that, this is a return style system, which is in constant circulation when the engine is running.

can of starting fluid will get close, if it won't run on that, it's either ignition related or injectors are not getting signaled to open.

make sure the small ground off the battery is still connected.

Good to know...however, my '86 2.9L EFi (4 lines into the fuel filter) wouldn't start or flow fuel into the injectors until the valve was bled as the engine was cranked...just cranking without bleeding the valve = no fuel into the engine...cranking and bleeding the valve produced fuel in 2 seconds approx.

Maybe I have another issue? Maybe this guy does too?

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86' Ranger 4x4 5spd 2.9L V-6

Did you cycle the ignition to bleed the system? On the return system if you cycle the key the pump will prime the system and burp the air.

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2002 4.0 4x4 auto.
Black Rock steelies, 32" Cooper Discover AT/3
Power leather buckets, Full length console
EATC, OHC, Lighted visors, Wite cluster
>CLICK<

The only way you would need to bleed the air out of the system is if the return was not working
Bad regulator? Clogged/disconnected return fuel line?
Something is not letting the fuel complete its return back to the tank

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1988 Ranger STX, custom built flatbed, winch, 33x 10.5 BFG mudders
1974 Suburban (AKA "the sub") lockers front & rear, 383 cu in not even close to stock motor, snowplow 37 x 12.5 HUMMV tires, 4.56 gears
1952 M38 (CJ3) Jeep - my newest project - 289 ford, hardtop, got it with not one wire in it. Hope to have it driving this year

Mine Is doing same thing and I have replaced the same parts and put fresh gas. New air filter blew out injectors. And still nothing.

Ok guys let's start with a little troubleshooting

What is the fuel pressure.
Do you have spark at the coil.
Do you have spark at the #1 plug

An engine only requires 5 things to run...
1. Fuel
2 Air
3. Timing
4 Spark
5. All new vehicles also require computer input

You are missing one of these five things if it won't run, troubleshoot to figure out which one you are missing
Don't throw parts at it until you know what parts you really need

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1988 Ranger STX, custom built flatbed, winch, 33x 10.5 BFG mudders
1974 Suburban (AKA "the sub") lockers front & rear, 383 cu in not even close to stock motor, snowplow 37 x 12.5 HUMMV tires, 4.56 gears
1952 M38 (CJ3) Jeep - my newest project - 289 ford, hardtop, got it with not one wire in it. Hope to have it driving this year

I'm thinking spark on this one

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96 Ford Ranger 2.3 - Loads of mods
03 DSG Mustang GT 5 spd- CAI, Flowmaster cat back, Sequential tail lights, 70mm T.B. 265/305
1992 GMC C1500 4.3 Long Bed 91K

We will find out when they troubleshoot

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1988 Ranger STX, custom built flatbed, winch, 33x 10.5 BFG mudders
1974 Suburban (AKA "the sub") lockers front & rear, 383 cu in not even close to stock motor, snowplow 37 x 12.5 HUMMV tires, 4.56 gears
1952 M38 (CJ3) Jeep - my newest project - 289 ford, hardtop, got it with not one wire in it. Hope to have it driving this year

I have checked every thing and changed ignition control module and had the coil checked and still nothing

OK I have a few questions ...
Did you have spark at the coil?
Did you have spark at the #1 plug?
What is the fuel pressure?
Does the rotor turn in the distributor when you crank the motor? (This is to check if the timing belt is broken)

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1988 Ranger STX, custom built flatbed, winch, 33x 10.5 BFG mudders
1974 Suburban (AKA "the sub") lockers front & rear, 383 cu in not even close to stock motor, snowplow 37 x 12.5 HUMMV tires, 4.56 gears
1952 M38 (CJ3) Jeep - my newest project - 289 ford, hardtop, got it with not one wire in it. Hope to have it driving this year