Hey there. I just picked up a non-running 1988 2.9L V6 with the 5 speed manual. Motor would crank but never turn over. I ended up replacing spark plugs, coil, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor with no luck. After all this I ended up replacing the ignition control module on the distributor. After the ICM, it started right up. It still runs rough and never wants to stay running. I finally timed it to 10 degree BTDC. Still runs rough and won't stay running. Any ideas? Thanks

Have you checked fuel pressure, and run a compression test, what brand plugs, and what gap, and are the plug wires on the correct plugs?

I'll have to run a compression and fuel pressure test later. As for plugs I went with the stick motor craft at I believe the .044 gap. Seeing as its the easiest fix, how do I check which wires go where?

Also, i've been hearing a lot about the MAP sensor...could a bad MAP cause these problems? I haven't tested for codes yet since I don't have a tester and my truck won't stay running long enough to drive it anywhere.

You have to figure out if it is a spark or a fuel problem
Test the fuel pressure
Test to see if you have reliable spark
Then go from there
Makes no sense to replace a bunch of parts at random

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1988 Ranger STX, custom built flatbed, winch, 33x 10.5 BFG mudders
1974 Suburban (AKA "the sub") lockers front & rear, 383 cu in not even close to stock motor, snowplow 37 x 12.5 HUMMV tires, 4.56 gears
1952 M38 (CJ3) Jeep - my newest project - 289 ford, hardtop, got it with not one wire in it. Hope to have it driving this year

Spark is reliable and I can smell the gas. I'll check pressure once I find a way.

Go to any parts store. You can buy a decent fuel pressure gauge for around $20

35-45 psi is normal fuel pressure
30 or less is a bad fuel pump or a clogged filter
70 or above is a failed pressure regulator

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How long has this fuel been in the tank?
That alone may be the problem
If the gas in the tank is over 60 days old it has gone bad and will not burn

So how long has it been sitting?

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1988 Ranger STX, custom built flatbed, winch, 33x 10.5 BFG mudders
1974 Suburban (AKA "the sub") lockers front & rear, 383 cu in not even close to stock motor, snowplow 37 x 12.5 HUMMV tires, 4.56 gears
1952 M38 (CJ3) Jeep - my newest project - 289 ford, hardtop, got it with not one wire in it. Hope to have it driving this year

Since the module on the back of the distributor went out, it's just been sitting. That's probably been 3 or so months. I have a new fuel filter to throw on, just need the time.

Got the fuel pressure gauge. How do I check pressure? With the motor running or just with the key on?

With the key on, you will hear the pumps whine as they prime the system.
If that is normal then start the engine to see if the pressure holds, will only take a couple minutes

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Since the truck has been sitting for 3 months I can almost guarantee the fuel has gone bad
The ethanol additives break down very fast with these new fuels
It would be best if you could drain the bad gas and put fresh fuel in

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Easiest way to get the bad gas out is to use a fuel priming ball like you use on a boat, you can put a long hose on one side to feed down into the tank and another hose on the other side into a container

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1988 Ranger STX, custom built flatbed, winch, 33x 10.5 BFG mudders
1974 Suburban (AKA "the sub") lockers front & rear, 383 cu in not even close to stock motor, snowplow 37 x 12.5 HUMMV tires, 4.56 gears
1952 M38 (CJ3) Jeep - my newest project - 289 ford, hardtop, got it with not one wire in it. Hope to have it driving this year

codes are easy to check w/o a reader, esp if you have a functioning check engine light. you just jump 2 terminals on the diagnostic connector with a small piece of wire, turn the key on, and codes blink out of the CEL.

2 tests for key on engine off - "koeo" which are hard faults it sees now. after that it outputs a separator pulse, and then it outputs stored memory codes. code lists are output twice for verification, and you will have 2 digit codes.

after you get it able to run, get it up to operating temp and run a key on engine running test. basically run the truck, the computer do some things, then you'll get a single pulse out of no where; that is the goose pulse. you hit the accelerator and release it so the computer can test the tps sensor output for dead spots. after that, codes are then output.

it wilil start but it won't drive. I have a new fuel filter to throw in but i have been short on time. Im still trying to find time to check codes and fuel pressure. Does anybody know where the EEC terminals are to check codes?

i think on the '88 year it's under the hood somewhere near the ecm and fuel pump relays.

It's in the engine compartment passenger side fenderwell back in the corner by the firewall it should have a red or orange cap on it

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This is all a great waste of time if the problem is bad gas

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1988 Ranger STX, custom built flatbed, winch, 33x 10.5 BFG mudders
1974 Suburban (AKA "the sub") lockers front & rear, 383 cu in not even close to stock motor, snowplow 37 x 12.5 HUMMV tires, 4.56 gears
1952 M38 (CJ3) Jeep - my newest project - 289 ford, hardtop, got it with not one wire in it. Hope to have it driving this year

Take your IAC off and clean it it may be sticking and causing it to stall

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1990 Ranger Extended Cab
2.9L V6 5 Speed Transmission
Planning to put a 347 and a T-5 in it eventually