I found this post while searching....It helped me. The following is the procedure that I used to swap out the timing belt,
timing belt tensioner, serpentine belt, and water pump on my 1997 Ranger with a 2.3L 4-cylinder engine. All fasteners on the truck are metric, so have your metric tools ready! It took me about 4 hours to do this job,
a pro mechanic can do it in about two. I had more time than money,
so I did it myself! The A/C compressor and power steering pump DO NOT need to be removed! They just need to unbolted and scooted over a bit.

Things you will need:

Gates timing belt kit. (belt and tensioner) $60.00
Gates serpente belt. $20.00
Water pump. $50.00
2 gallons of 50/50 mix anti-freeze 10-15.00 per gallon.
Tube of light grease for o-rings. (I had this on hand)

Metric tools.
Long 3/8" rachet extension.
1/2" breaker bar.
1/2" impact wrench.
Large 24mm socket.
Various visegrips and screwdrivers for hose clamps.

Procedure:

Remove 3 of the fan bolts. (a 10mm long wrench works good for this)
Remove the two fan shroud bolts above.
Remove the last fan bolt.
Remove the fan and fan shroud.
Remove the fan pulley.
Remove the serpente belt.
Drain the radiator.
Remove the top radiator hose.
Remove the bottom radiator hose.
Remove the top two bolts and pull the radiator.
Remove the 4 bolts holding the A/C compressor, but DO NOT disconect any of the hoses.

Remove the bolts for the A/C and power steering pump bracket. It is not necessary to remove the A/C and power steering pump, you just need to be able to move them out of the way a bit. There are three 13mm bolts and one 10mm bolt holding the brackets on. One of the 13mm bolts is directly under the A/C compressor. The 10mm bolt is down and
to the right of the one under the A/C compressor. The last two bolts are down by the power steering pump.

Remove the harmonic balancer. An impact wrench and 24mm socket is required. The bolt may be too tight for the impact wrench. If it does not come out, try heating it with a torch. If that does not work, use the 24mm socket with a large breaker bar. Brace the breaker bar against the frame, and quickly bump the starter. This should break the bolt loose. (this trick worked for me) The balancer is not pressed on, and can
be removed at this time. You may need to tap it a few times with a rubber mallet.

Remove the two bolts holding the timing belt cover.
Un-do the snaps holding the timing belt cover.
Remove the timing belt cover.

Now the engine needs to be aligned BEFORE the timing belt is taken off! There are timing marks to use to align the engine. Screw the harmonic balancer bolt back in the crank and use it to crank the engine over by hand. Turn the engine over until the keyway on the crank is straight up, and diamonds are aligned on the other two pulleys.

Remove the two bolts holding the timing belt tensioner, and remove the belt tensioner.
Remove the old timing belt.

Put the new timing belt tensioner on. Screw in the bolt and spring all the way tight, then back off one turn. Use a long 3/8" socket extension to use as a lever to push the tensioner over. Then put the other tensioner bolt in while holding the lever. Use the lever to push the tensioner to the end of it's adjustment slot, then tighten
the bolt.

Now put the new timing belt on. Start at the crank, and work up and clockwise, keeping the belt tight as not to screw up the alignment of the pulleys. Now loosen the bolts on the belt tensioner a bit and let the tensioner take up the slack in the belt.

Crank the engine over a few revolutions to let the belt and tensioner settle in. Recheck the alighnment of timing marks. If it's off, fix it now!

Now replace the water pump. You may think that if it's not leaking to leave it alone. WRONG! The tension of the new sertentne belt on the OLD water pump bearing will wear it out and it will be leaking within a week. If you don't want to tear it down again in a week, the spend 50 bucks and put a new water pump on!

Remove the two small 8mm bolts under the alternator that hold the bottom raditor hose tube on. This will be hard to remove. Twist it back and forth and pull it out.

Remove the three bolts holding the water pump on.
Remove the water pump.
Lightly grease the o-rings for the new water pump.
Install the o-rings in the new water pump.
Put some teflon tape on the three water pump bolts.
Install the water pump and tighten the bolts.
Lightly grease the bottom radiator hose tube, the end that will be inserted in the water pump.
Install bottom raditor hose tube.

Now put her back together!

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Red 1994 Mazda B2300 Base Model With A/C--2.3L--140cid-100hp--4Cyl--D.I.S. Engine Code [A]--Bosch (4505) Fusion Iradium Spark Plugs-- "Cheap" 8mm Silicone Plug Wires--Gatorback Belt--Blocked Off/Disabled EGR Valve--Coil Mod--Throttle Cable Mod--Magnaflow Muffler/No CAT--5 Speed M5R1-RWD--3.45 Non Limited Slip Rear End---Lowered 5" Rear 3 1/2" Front---269,000 Miles as of 11/1/2013---If its a Ford you will need to keep a lot of tools and a good fire extinguisher handy.